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57 Dodge D100 build

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 57maaaat, Jul 25, 2013.

  1. 57maaaat
    Joined: Jul 16, 2013
    Posts: 48

    57maaaat
    Member

    All i plan on doing with this truck is driving it once or twice a week 3-4 months out of the year because the rest is too cold and snowy up here. Strength is not my biggest concern, parts availability, cost and not having the machined hubs and drums. Disk brakes would be a bonus but i could live with a good set of drum brakes in the rear. The 8.75 that i have now has the large stamped X and messures 59" 3/8 flange to flange. Im kind of lost to what rear end i want to go with.

    All i need is a reliable amount of strength, not too pricey considering im an 18 year old student who works an 11$/hour job, certainly not the pressed drums and hubs and the width being near 59"3/8.
     
  2. 57maaaat
    Joined: Jul 16, 2013
    Posts: 48

    57maaaat
    Member

    Stamped X on the housing.
     

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  3. Ryguy442
    Joined: Jan 5, 2011
    Posts: 242

    Ryguy442
    Member
    from Nc

    Yeah I meant 57" not 53, actually it's a little wider then 57.



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  4. 57maaaat
    Joined: Jul 16, 2013
    Posts: 48

    57maaaat
    Member

    Well, the end of another day. Early night working on Ole Red, straightened out a couple bent spots on the frame and bolted in the new shock mount on the frame. I used the same plates and brakets but cut and punched out the old bolts/pin. I bought a new one at Napa for 10$ and bolted right on. Before doing any more major work to the rear section of the truck i will need to decide on a rear end and get springs from Eaton Detroit springs. They offer many different springs for cars and trucks with an option of up to 3" lowering or lift for a small extra charge.
     
  5. 57maaaat
    Joined: Jul 16, 2013
    Posts: 48

    57maaaat
    Member

    The new shock mount painted and bolted with stainless nuts and bolts.
     

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  6. 57maaaat
    Joined: Jul 16, 2013
    Posts: 48

    57maaaat
    Member

    Before
     

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  7. 57maaaat
    Joined: Jul 16, 2013
    Posts: 48

    57maaaat
    Member

    After, easily done with a torch, vice grips, C clamps and a piece of angle iron
     

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  8. 57maaaat
    Joined: Jul 16, 2013
    Posts: 48

    57maaaat
    Member

    After a lot of research i found that the explorer 8.8 is 59.5" wide which is pretty damn close to what i need. If i can find one for a good price and good condition i think this will be the rear end ill be using. Will search some scrap yards monday with a pocket full of cash:D
     
  9. Ryguy442
    Joined: Jan 5, 2011
    Posts: 242

    Ryguy442
    Member
    from Nc

     
  10. 57maaaat
    Joined: Jul 16, 2013
    Posts: 48

    57maaaat
    Member

    well, i picked up an 8.8 today at a local scrapyard. I didnt have a chance to messure it out there but i assumed that it was near 59.5" The rear end came out of a 1999 explorer and when i picked it up it turned out to be 54" 3/4 wide.. guess the perches will need be moved out a couple inches each side and relocated to the top of the axle. To compansate for this ill have to get offset rear wheels. Looking forward to getting the rear end ready to being installed (sandblasted, painted, perches relocated, new brake rotors, pads, calipers)
     

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  11. Ryguy442
    Joined: Jan 5, 2011
    Posts: 242

    Ryguy442
    Member
    from Nc

    Glad to see you got a rear end! And with disc brakes. Good luck getting it all mounted up! If you want to lower the rear some more could always leave the perches on the bottom. I think it'll look good with offset rims in the rear. What kind of rims were you thinking?


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  12. 57maaaat
    Joined: Jul 16, 2013
    Posts: 48

    57maaaat
    Member

  13. Ryguy442
    Joined: Jan 5, 2011
    Posts: 242

    Ryguy442
    Member
    from Nc

    Ahh I see, also would have to find a way to lower the front enough to match too. And with a solid axle that's a whole new can of worms. The reverse rims will look good!


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  14. 57maaaat
    Joined: Jul 16, 2013
    Posts: 48

    57maaaat
    Member

    Im not sure how much drop ill need in the front to get a nice stance out of it since the rear had 30" farm tires haha ill probably use a drop axle from Sid and if i need more drop ill take a leaf or two out.
     
  15. 57maaaat
    Joined: Jul 16, 2013
    Posts: 48

    57maaaat
    Member

    only a bit of work done lately, cant do much more without a big order of parts that i need (leaf springs, spring perches, shocks, tires) also need to get a little sand blaster to do the inner frame rails and rear end. The new spring perch location has been mesured and doesnt leave me much room although it should work.
     
  16. 57maaaat
    Joined: Jul 16, 2013
    Posts: 48

    57maaaat
    Member

    with this brake setup ill have to run at least 17" wheels in the rear. Perches will be pretty close to the backing plates but will fit just fine.
     

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  17. Ryguy442
    Joined: Jan 5, 2011
    Posts: 242

    Ryguy442
    Member
    from Nc

    Why do you have run 17s? I got 15x10s on the rear of the pontiac with the same brake setup

    Ryan


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  18. 57maaaat
    Joined: Jul 16, 2013
    Posts: 48

    57maaaat
    Member

    Theres only about 1/4-1/2" of space between the caliper and rim
     

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  19. Ryguy442
    Joined: Jan 5, 2011
    Posts: 242

    Ryguy442
    Member
    from Nc

    I think what should be fine, unless something goes very wrong the rim and the caliper will never have movement toward each other. A bent rim might be the only way they could ever contact.

    Tho.... 17" steelies would look pretty fricken cool on there


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  20. stevethepreacher
    Joined: Nov 16, 2011
    Posts: 214

    stevethepreacher
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  21. 57maaaat
    Joined: Jul 16, 2013
    Posts: 48

    57maaaat
    Member

    For anyone needing springs for a project www.eatondetroitspring.com is the place to go! I couldn't have had it easier. They offer springs for hundreds of thousands of different cars and trucks with an option of up to 3" lift or lowering. Not only was it super easy get everything that I wanted but the price is very good. A local spring shop was charging 500$+ to rebuild one spring pack and I got a pair of 3" lowering and smoother riding leaf packs for just over 600$. Very impressed with the service too, one of the employees; Mickey called me and offered me if I wanted smoother riding springs. Overall I think this is the only place I'd order springs from, can't wait for them to get here now.
     
  22. 57maaaat
    Joined: Jul 16, 2013
    Posts: 48

    57maaaat
    Member

    Well, it's been a while since I've posted anything, havent been able to do much without parts! Still waiting on springs but finally found a little sandblaster and started doing the rear end, here's a picture of the difference it makes
     

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  23. 55 Mercury
    Joined: Mar 18, 2006
    Posts: 888

    55 Mercury
    Member

  24. 57maaaat
    Joined: Jul 16, 2013
    Posts: 48

    57maaaat
    Member

    Well guys, lots of work got done since the last time I posted. The 8.8 rear end is sandblasted, primed and painted, new leafs from Eaton Detroit springs are installed, spring perches are measured and ready for welding and all new brakes are installed. Does anyone know if there's a such thing as spacer for the u joint flange? The stock drive shaft is about .5" too short. This thing is really starting to take shape, quite proud of myself
     

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  25. Ryguy442
    Joined: Jan 5, 2011
    Posts: 242

    Ryguy442
    Member
    from Nc

    Looking good! Thinking about doing a 8.8 swap in my 56 merc. If I can find one in the right gear ratio and for the right price. Keep up the good work!

    Ryan


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  26. 57maaaat
    Joined: Jul 16, 2013
    Posts: 48

    57maaaat
    Member

    I got the last 8.8 in my town from a scrap yard for 400$ with 3:55 gears, compared to other prices I've seen it's a little much but quite happy with how the swap is going so far.
     
  27. 57maaaat
    Joined: Jul 16, 2013
    Posts: 48

    57maaaat
    Member

    Quite positive the dropped axle is what I want for this truck, just finishing up the rear of the truck and then moving on to the front.
     
  28. 57maaaat
    Joined: Jul 16, 2013
    Posts: 48

    57maaaat
    Member

    Does anyone know any solutions to wheels rubbing inside the fenders when turning because of lowering? Narrower axle?
     
  29. Ryguy442
    Joined: Jan 5, 2011
    Posts: 242

    Ryguy442
    Member
    from Nc

    If its rubbing on the inside of the fender lip a different wheel offset would help. Also a steering stop would keep them from turning that far. Sucks for turning radius tho


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  30. nowhereman
    Joined: Oct 16, 2011
    Posts: 111

    nowhereman
    Member
    from illinois

    hey nice truck!
     

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