Customs 57 Chevy Budget 4 door build

I think belaire gave him some good advice , he is not going to listen much ,Was I the only one that read the one post that told him to heat the gas tank drain plug with a propane torch .? scary shit

 

Did you clean or change the points and condenser? I use a diamond file to clean the oxidatation off the points, and you can immediately tell if they are oxidized because there is a white haze on the file.

 

This is a simplified drawing of your ignition circuit. You're just going to bypass the switch and ballast resistor, and take a wire from +12v directly to the coil + terminal, as others have stated. Notice how this makes a complete circuit through the distributor (when the points are closed). Any connection that is corroded can create an ''open'' in the circuit, preventing current from flowing.
Jumping ahead a little, the resistor is in place to save your points. The coil receives it's voltage while running through it. Only while the starter motor is engaged does it get full battery voltage, to assist in starting.
Lowbudget may have had a faulty starter solenoid, not giving voltage to the coil while cranking, but the engine still spinning would fire when the key was released and power came to the coil through the ballast resistor.

 

Their is a wire from the starter/solenoid to the coil

 

I caught that too... but it might solve the gas cap issue.
flatford finally mentioned a remote starter....
chevy57dude supplied a great diagram.
If the kid is a computer whiz, he should catch on after learning the basics.

 

Think long and hard about this one. I thought so too then I found out jobs get outsourced for a lot cheaper. Also you will need to reinvent yourself every three years to keep up with the ever changing technology.


Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

Just one thing to note, the resistor is to limit the voltage to the coil, i/e points for a 6v or 12v system are the same.

 

The book that set my foundation 40 years ago in HS Auto Shop was 'Auto Mechanics Fundamentals' by Martin W. Stockel. The Edition I had in school had an orange cover, next edition a blue cover.

Another book worth looking for is by MOTOR - Auto Engines and Electrical Systems, a copy printed in the late '60's or early 70's.

One or BOTH of these books are worth the search on Ebay or Amazon, to give you the basics of fuel, ignition, charging and electrical, mechanical systems - to suppliment the factory service and assembly books. Before you pick up another wrench, GET THE BOOKS. Read, study and READ some more. I NEVER tear into a carb without TWO diagrams to refer to... guess why? I've been a gearhead ALL my life, and I read every night - books, magazines, and on the 'net. It's NOT about knowing all the answers, but where to look, who to ask. Lots of SOLID advice here, because we were ALL in your shoes, and want to save you some time and money. It's what I call GOOD KARMA!

 

I totally agree with this in some respects. Technology advances so quickly that by the time you are proficient at a particular subject the technology has advanced beyond what you learned 6 months ago. At age 45 I gave up trying to keep all my certifications up and started enjoying my time off from work by doing things I enjoyed instead of studying for the next round of certifications. Some people enjoy the studying. I didn't!

 

Thanks a ton for the wiring diagram chevy57, it's a lot easier to see what's going on and what goes where when i'm not in a dark garage dropping tools under the car every 5 minutes. I'm gonna go ahead and get some wire to replace the dry rotted old junk in it, any recommendations on what i should use? i just need to run wires from the coil to distributor, and coil to starter. I'm also going to order some things like a condenser, points, fuel pump, tank etc. just so that i don't waste another weekend waiting around. oh and of course a carb kit. The coil, if it turns out to be bad i can find locally so i'm not worried about that.

 

Go to Home Depot and spend $25 on a cheap shop light to hang up! You will be glad you did!

 

I'm sure there are others with more knowledge than me, When I clean a tank i just put 3 or 4 hand fulls of nuts and bolts, add a gallon of diesel fuel and really shake the tank until the rust is gone. I then rinse the tank with lacquer thinner. after it's dry and clean I coat the tank with POR-15. It will take a couple of days to dry. I've never had one to fail, and I've done many motorcycle and auto tanks. You can order POR-15 from Walmart for less than 37.00 for a quart. A quart should do your tank.
By the way, you got a deal on your 57.

 

The plan is to try that first and if it's just too crusty i'll get a new tank but i'd rather save the 100 bucks for something else

 

I don't piss around with old tanks, I get a new one. I like things to be DONE and move onto the next thing with the same philosophy. Rock Auto had my tank for $157 and everyone else was (for the same Spectra tank) $199 to $349.

 

I will second and quadruple on this. My wife has been in IT for 30 years, starting as a developer and ultimately to a Vice-President. After the latest outsourcing fiasco / round of layoffs, it took 6 months to re-gain employment at an equivalent position. Her co-workers are currently on a trip to Romania and Pakistan to try to un-fuck their company from the brilliant upper management decision to outsource everything. Learn that networks and software systems SUPPORT the business, they are not an end unto themselves. Take business courses and learn how the PROPER integration of technology can make a company more money.

 

I know you guys said to stick with the stovebolt for a while, and i still agree thats the easiest way to get back on the road, but i might have too good a deal to pass up. found a 283 that turns over and looks clean for $100 and i found a running 307 in a 68 chevelle for $250. I know the 307s aren't known to be particularly performance based though

 

Get your fuel system squared away first, put the money there cause a V8 won't run with a crapped up tank and fuel lines either. Slow down and take a few steps back. We all want to see you succeed in this build.
Not trying to be an ass just trying to help.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

paying $100 for the 283 may set your finances back, but if it is a decent block to rebuild later, it might be worth picking it up now and keep it close.

Still get your 6 running, and can use it while you rebuild the 283, can also sell the running 6 to help pay for the parts needed for the 283.
Without the 6 running, is not worth much.

 

If you have never done a swap before, this might be a good place to start. However, I also feel that you should get what you have running ( assuming this is possible), and then start thinking of a swap.
You are going to need a lot more than a motor. Quite frankly, the best way to do this kind of a swap is to have the whole donor car, because there are going to be lots of pieces that you are going to need besides the engine.
So, if you feel that the 283 is worth buying, buy it and set it aside and start collecting the parts you are going to need.
For example, even the 6 bellhousing won't fit to the V8.
Buy a good Chevy book such as, one of the HP Books "How to Rebuild the Small Block Chevrolet", and another one, Chevy Performance, but John Michelsen. A little reading before you take the plunge will save a lot of heartache, and increase the chance that you will get the car on the road.
You can do a lot of stuff in your backyard that people will think is impossible, but you do need the basic knowledge and some perseverance.
So get it running, have fun, get informed, and go for it!
That is how most of us got started.
Bob

 

What about the Fords???

 

Damnit boys!! He done got the fever! Hose him down and cool him off!

Seriously, get to working on what you got, get it running and go! You will gain invaluable skills doing it this way. You are, where we all were once, a beginner and that's awesome. Gain knowledge and skills, and then start modifying otherwise you just have a pile of parts. Fix it and drive it before swapping engines!

 

Don't you love it when you see someone get bit?

 

well the parts i ordered are at home, won't get to work on it again till next weekend at the earliest though, in the meantime i can work on a list of any other stuff i might need. I want to put an oil pressure gauge in it, but i figured while i'm at it i might as well add a real temp gauge and a tach. what would you guys recommend? I'm thinking one of those 3 gauge panels that guys used to put under the dash or glovebox. obviously once i do a motor swap i'll want these 3 things anyway, but it would be nice to be able to use them with my 6 cyl as well until the swap actually happens.

And like i said i'm going to replace a few wires, what should i use that's similar to the wire i removed above? distributor to coil is one of the wires i'll be replacing for an example.

about the fords, that's not gonna happen. i'm just too busy with school and work and 1 car already, don't have the time/space/energy/money for others.

 

Your temp gauge probably works. With the key on, ground the sender wire to the engine block. This should peg the gauge. Report back, it's a simple circuit.

 

I agree with getting the 6 banger running, then start looking for/building up a V-8.
Once the car is up and running with the 6, you can DRIVE the car which should really boost your esteem and enthusiasm toward doing additional work on the car.
You can then enjoy the car and take your time to find a good running or rebuilder core V-8 along with a used engine stand. Excellent deals can be had on running 283, 327, 350's that are being pulled from Camaro's, Chevelle's, Corvette's, trucks, etc. in favor of LS swaps.
You can help stay on a budget by buying good used valve covers, intake, etc. as well as leftover new parts that are being "given away" compared to brand new parts.
!f you do a rebuild, shop for good deals but stick with name brand parts. Buy "full sets" such as Fel Pro gaskets to save being nickel and dimed on individual stuff.
Small block Chevy's are reasonable and there's a ton of parts and info available on them.

I'd go with the 3 gauge panel under the dash. Tach unnecessary unless you get into a real revvy V-8.

 

I got a nice 3-gauge set at Summit that works very well.

 

Were it me, I would buy a set of gauges in the $30 -$40 range. You aren't building a show car at this point. Go frugal on the gauges and spend a little money on a terminal end set, some lengths of different gauge wire at Home Depot or lowes, and buy a good set of wire strippers and crimpers. Don't go cheap on tools that you will and can use the rest of your life. The gauges will go with the car when you sell it and you just don't need show quality Sun gauges for your project just yet!

 

i'm gonna grab a set from summit, i guess i know i won't keep the car forever so good point.

 

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/auto-engines-electrical-systems-books-by-motors.1067950/

 

My gauges at Summit were around $39 and worked out well.