Projects 51 Studebaker business coupe to South East Gasser rules.

This one is from the front bottom of the car (passenger side ) looking back.

 

The rear passenger side and door jam.

 

From the front outside looking back. there is another sheet metal piece that bolts over this, I may have to make it also, the ones we have are bad rusty.

 

no1nitrofreak this one won't make the Greer race April 25th but should be out by mid season.

 

What do you use to preload the front springs before you attach your spring mounts.

 

I take all of the leafs out except the main one. Then it takes very little effort to hold it down to where the arc should be. Then measure to where the chassis height and spring mounts need to be off the jig or floor. Then when finished just keep adding leafs until it gets to the height you want it. This way also makes it easy to get the right angle for the shackle because it's where it will be when at ride height. You will notice some leafs missing in the pic I posted. We had it setting where it's going to set with just a empty block. As we add parts we add leafs LOL.

 

Thank you for the pics.
Marcus...

 

More questions on the leafs Why shackle in front vs shackle in back? Is one better?

 

The theory is that if both front and rear shackles are positioned the same(both to the back) the ride is better. The axles both move the same direction as it moves. I never noticed any difference. I do know that the steering should be on the fixed side...at least that is what everyone says. It has less chance of moving the shackle.

Auto manufacturers have done them both ways.

 

Sorry Quain...I thought this was Tonys thread.

 

I appreciate the response either way It makes sense.

 

That's Ok good answer anyway. There is another reason also. If cross steer it don't matter, but if traditional (front to back) steering the solid mount needs to be at the back so that the axle moves forward to back with the drag link if the angles are like they should be. That way less involuntary steering. It's call bump steer on control arm cars but on straight axle cars it turns both wheels the same. If I could draw a pic on here I could explain it better. It's such a small amount it don't matter anyway, I have my Willys wrong.

 

I guess with the front tires off the ground it don't make any difference.

 

But it Might do comming down, then "how much" matters! ️

 

Right volvobrynk, coming back down is the problem. On pro mod cars we check bump steer with a dial indicate. The reason is sometimes they are way over 150 MPH when the wheels touch back down, the wheels better be straight. Gassers handle so bad you never notice LOL.

 

Quain,
What have you found to be the desired Caster on these types of front axle setups?
Glenn

 

8 to 9 is the hot spot for racing, I would stay around 5 to 6 for a daily driver.

 

Here's a few pics of the owner David Walker, he came by to make sure everything is where it needs to be.

 

Donovan and I checking for the right spot for the old school head rest. David still has his old helmet from his road racing days.

 

David looks right at home. Checking for gas petal position here.

 

After measuring David for throttle position we made the linkage to the carb. Real simple just aluminum tuning threaded for #10 rod ends with bushings for the big hole in the carb. Of course the valve covers and not era correct distributor will have to go to be South East Gasser legal.

 

Is this going to be a Single-4 barrel Race engine ???
Glenn

 

Just to start with Glenn then I'm sure it will get the works after David gets a few runs under his belt. The last time David drove an ill handling gasser was in the mid 60s.

 

Wheelie bars to day and this is in real time we did them today. We make the rear wheel bracket to look old school like the mid 60s just an old caster wheel welded to a leaf spring so we give it the caster look. Nothing looks more out of place on an old school gasser than a modern wheelie bar that looks like it came from a mail order catalog.

 

The bottom plate is made of 6061 1/4 aluminum plate. We put a slight roll in it to give it the leaf spring look. Here's Donovan milling the slot for the top bar bracket to come through. No one sales a wheelie bar with the old school look that I know of, that's what makes them cool they have to be made just like the old days.

 

The wheel bracket bolted to the plate. Here you can see how the bracket comes through for the top bar.

 

Now for the front lower bracket these have to be custom made for the car everyone is different.

 

Front bracket bolted on the plate. We will make the top bars and get them mounted tomorrow.

 

Attention to details like this is what makes your cars SO cool.
Well done.

 

Cars looking really good Quain. Perfect timing on the wheelie bars that's on my list of things to Finnish up this weekend. Really like the look of your bars so I'm building mine really similar to them. Thanks for the details on them.