Projects 51 Studebaker business coupe to South East Gasser rules.

The Studebaker had a real thin chassis plus this one had been setting outside for a long time. I added the 2 X 3 X .083 rails going forward because I was afraid the original chassis would fail under the load of a high winding clutch car leaving the line. They go from the main cross member to the mounts for the engine mid mounts. It's not as much weight as it may look. The little small bracing is too support the edges of the tin work when the removable trans tunnel is not in place.

 

A shot of the drive shafts loops. something to think about that most don't. When in high gear the trans is 1 to 1 with the crankshaft. So if the engine is turning 8,000 rpms so is the drive shaft, with only a thin piece of sheet metal or aluminum between the driver and the shaft. Most brake in low gear so not much damage but if it comes out in high gear, it will be hell too tell the captain.

 

Damn that is nice work.

 

Thought this would fit the thread since it's the exact same body style with a straight axle. Thanks Ed Crews for the pic.

 

that's kool as $#!^

 

very tidy workmanship. cool & unusual build. thanx

 

Sorry if i missed it, but are you going with the '50 or '51 front end, or a combination?

 

A pic of how we do the steering column, just a then piece of chrome moly with home made aluminium bushings. Light and simple

 

Several post back I posted the sheet metal cowl area where the upper part of the aluminum firewall will attach, here's how I'm going to attach the bottom of the firewall to the chassis. Note the dzus fastener plate incorporated into the firewall mount for the removal trans tunnel. You can also see where the extra frame brace ties into the mid mount bracket.

 

The rear suspension set up, we make our own ladder bars. The last few cars I have done are 1" 1/4" x .120 wall to be more old school looking. I was doing them 1" in the past. I also started putting the adjuster on top so it won't be seen when looking under the car. The solid rod ends that are in there now are just for line up reasons, it will have heim joints in the end. I made my solid rod ends .010 wider than the heim joint so when the heim joint goes in to will just slide in with out a hammer. I do this every place on the car where something is removable. No hammer needed to work on it.

 

The other side

 

The framing for the battery boxes. The threaded bushings are where the battery hold down studs will go.

 

Peanut 1959, I'm not up on my Studebaker history I know he has both combinations this is the bullet nose he is going to use. I think he said the other one is not chrome around the outside. He also has both year model lower grills, we are trying to talk him into leaving them out. If we use them they will have to be cut for the gas tank which would look cool. We was limited on space for the tank because the front end rolls back so bad.

 

Since I have posted the front end pics I show y'all this. David wanted to keep the hood gap factory instead of glassing them together so we made perfect size aluminum bushings for spacers. I don't have C and C equipment, it took a long time to turn them out on a manual lath.

 

That is the '50 front end. I, generally prefer it to the '51, though they are both winners in my book!

 

Hi Quain - what is the pipe diameters and thickness that are needed so that one slides inside the other? The pedal itself looks like 1" ? I need to do this next. Thanks for the details on this stuff!

 

Tony the main shaft is 1" x .083" chrome moly, if it's braced good, if the clutch pivot arm is going to hang way out from the frame with out any bracing you should use 1" x .156" This can be seamless mild steel. The bushing's that weld's in the frame and the floater on the brake petal is 1" 1/4" x .120. When you weld the bushings in the frame put a heavy coat of anti seize on a thick 1" pipe and have it running through the bushings while you weld and until it cools. Also weld a little bit at a time. I don't mean let it cool then come back and weld more just weld one side then move to the other then come back. Don't forget thick pipe and heavy anti seize or it will be in there and never come out. If you have a 1" reamer and it's where you can get too it you won't have to worry about any of this.

 

Quain,
Is there any set formula for figuring the length of the ladder bars?
Beautiful work!

 

Hemibert the formula I use is in my head LOL. There are formulas out there but you have to know the weight of the finished car, center of gravity, wheel base, and height of the center of gravity. Then you have to know if you want the car to do big wheelies or stay down and just go. In the end the most important part is how high off the ground the front mounting point of the bar is. I make all of mine 42" or longer because 42" is the minimum to have the true Gasser look. I have done so many I hit it pretty close most of the time. You can PM me and tell me a little about your car and I'll give you my best guess.

 

Quain, Is this car going to be ready for Greer ?

 

Stude is lookin good Quain! I tried to send you a message,dont know if I did it correctly...let me know...

 

The front suspension finished up just needs a little adjusting.

 

Another angle

 

A few details on the front end. If anyone would like to see other details just let me know and I'll snap a pic and post it. This is our home made motor mounts.

 

custom made upper shock mounts.

 

Steering stabilizer mount. I always add one of these because the death wobble can come at anytime, no matter who installs the axle.

 

Reversed chevy corvair steering box mount. These are aggravating to mount because the box mounting surface is on an angle, you can see if you look close at the pic. The bracket at the bottom on the chassis is the mid mount bracket.

 

Flip front end pin mounts.

 

I haven't got a message where did you send it too.

 

Marcus here are a few more pics of the rocker panels. I wish I had know you needed them and I would have made pics while I was making them and you could see more details. This one is from the bottom passenger side looking back to the wheel well. The part that kicks up is where the little aluminum panel mounts that is pictured earlier in the thread. It's made just like the front part but this part kicks up.