ok radio is out it doesn't have the back part that mounts on the firewall dash buttons look sweet just have to get the face repainted when cleaned up this will look great with your gauges
I think I have most all of them but I'm not really sure what all I'm supposed to have...I just saw an original sedan about a month ago and took some pictures to compare to. I think I'm gonna have to modify the original buttons and knobs to fit on new switches because I don't have any factory wirring, electronics, or switches! I need to dig through my boxes and see what exactly is there! I really appreciate it Joel you are the man! I'll make some new mounting hardware for the radio so thats all good!
the radio mounts right to the dash this is the type that has two cables that run to a box mounted on the firewall where the guts are so you can mount this in two seconds flat
I knew there had to be more to that radio. There's no way it could have been so small by itself. That's really neat.
here is the new one i purchased it was pricey but i think i deserved it for myself you can see the head unit and the box that has all the tubes and guts next to it
That thing is sick! I'd say worth every penny! I'd like to find a way to make mine functional in some way or another. I've got some ideas I can't wait to mess with it this winter. But just filling that hole in the dash will be nice!
there is a way to make it very functional i included the cables that would go to the box on the firewall they are like speedo cables i imagine one could take an old chevy radio the type with the two knobs and connect each cable the shaft the knobs would be on there for when you turn the knob on the dash it would turn the shaft on the radio turning it on and changing station if you need more info on this idea let me know i will look for a photo of the radio im talking about with this radio mounted behind the dash out of site you could still hear it and even plug it to an amp i came up with this idea when i was 18 yrs old a long long long long time ago lol
I actually have a knob to knob tape deck with an auxilary input and thats exactly what I was thinking! I'll be checking in for sure!
Joel I got the radio today and you are the man! I'll mount it up to night and shoot you a pic! Thanks again...
dude now you see what im talking about with the cable it seems easy to connect to a knob fm radio i had this idea in my head for so many years now that thing looks badass with your gauges
well I snapped a few pictures while I was under the Plymouth last week. I've found some pretty impressive stuff under there...The driver side motor mount has some pretty impressive welds on it. At no point does the motor mount actually touch the frame where it was welded. The transmission cross member was cobbled together with some 1" square steel which wouldn't be such a big deal if they hadn't chipped away pieces of the transmission to clear the mount! And I was taking some measurements for header clearance to pissibly buy some block hugger headers! When I looked at the exhaust manifold clearance on the steering gearbox and the gearbox clearence to the engine mounts I found...NO CLEARANCE...I cant fit the tip of my finger between anything! I'm still planning on making the switch to the Cavilear R&P so that should help. I've been planning on pulling the engine this fall to do some work down there this winter but it looks like that will be a must do!
Im looking for advice on what to do with my 283 to add a little kick to it this winter. Just thought I'd post it on here too! http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=623126&highlight=283
Good day at the swap meet some pics to follow...I made my first asthetic purchase...el cheapo center caps and bullet lug nuts 40.00 bux beats the hell out of 150 for the spider caps so I splurged!
Ok got a picture of the car with the wheels painted and the bullet caps and lug nuts installed. I also swaped out my valve covers. Still not what I want but I had them sitting on my other motor and I liked em better than those filthy polished ones. I did finally cut a deal with a vendor at the swap meet to trade my hillborn style dual 4 air filter/scoop for a set of the valve covers I actually want so when I take the motor down this winter I'll have a new set to dress it up with! For now the valve covers and wheels give it a little bit of a menacing look
I've been doing some experimentation. I wanted to get some visual gratification before the end of the driving season. I've had some almond white colored semi gloss rattle cans laying around so I've been experimenting with some scallop designs. I've been through nearly 3 rolls of masking tape experimenting. I also mocked up my bumpers tonight and I'm hoping to get them mounted before the Blacktop Bash Oct. 15th. I think I've come up with a layout for the front end that I like. The profile picture attached is not the most current eddition, I've added a 3rd small strip between the 2 big strips, and eliminated the stripe over the wheel and the strip behind it. I've also got to figure out what I need to do the back half of the car. Now I've got to figure out how to replicate the scallops on the other side so i can get to painting. Keep in mind this is all only temporary. Till I get the drive train squared away and start the body work!
A few more pics. I feel like its still missing something? Haa got the little man in the last picture...
Get yourself a few rolls of 1/4 masking tape to do your outlines with, it curves easier, and just for shits and giggles, get some water based poster paint from the craft store, you can thin it some and spray it to see how your designs look, then hose it off!!! You need a grill
jay thats an awesome idea about the water based paint... And yes i damn sure do need a grill of some sort! im in the market now just not sure what i want to use yet!
jay thats an awesome idea about the water based paint... And yes i damn sure do need a grill of some sort! im in the market now just not sure what i want to use yet!
Just a bit of critiquing the scallops. They should flow in the same direction, be more even and have more similar characteristics. Here's a rough, dirty layout example. White lines for the centers of the licks. Try to get them all parallel or close. Yellow lines to define the width and flow. They should all be fairly close to the same. Red circles to show the smooth transition. they should be fairly close to the same depth from the front. They can be different sizes, but shouldn't be squared off or too oblong.
n847, you might want to see if you can find another front end before you dig into all that mud in the front end, there might be a can o' worms in there!!! At least if you find a front clip you will have your grill, headlight rings, under all the mud you might find the grill opening still intact, the 47 grill is a rectangle insert about 30" 's across x11" high.
Rod awesome thanks thats the kind of advice I was looking for. I was planning on doing alot of that when I lay it out again, but thats a big help! Jay I will be looking for a new front end at some point. You would actually be supprised how little mud there is on that front end but has been butchered pretty bad. There is very little of the original sheet metal left up there! I'm primarily worried about where the fenders are welded to the body thats pretty "dirty"! Thanks for the advice! This kind of stuff that keeps me coming back!