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Projects 47 Plymouth Coupe Project

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by n847, May 2, 2010.

  1. n847
    Joined: Apr 22, 2010
    Posts: 2,662

    n847
    Member

    Ok I decided it helps in my motivation and aids in my abiliby to ask questions if I have a project thread started. This is a 47 Plymouth Coupe. 283 Chevy, 350 th Trans, and a Ford 9". I've been working on it for about 3 weeks now I have installed a Holley fuel pressure regulator that solved an issue with gas pouring out the top of the carb when the fuel pump was turned on. Now it idles like a champ. I installed a new brake hose on the drivers side yesterday. Removed the brake pedal arm today, the late model masterclylinder doesn't line up to the original holes properly so I'm going to drill a new hole in the arm in an attempt to salvage the parts I already have.

    The interior is pretty dated, the grey tweed will have to go. The body work is started but still has a long way to go. I'm in the market for a set of steel wheels with wide whites, and maybe a set of old cheater slicks for the rear.

    The head lights are frenched, The Brake lights are some type of tear drop style, I'm not sure what they came off of. The front appears to have some work done to the grill, but I'm not sure what they looked like under the chrome, I've never had a chance to look at a stock one. I just purchased 2 bumpers off e-bay, the rear one had been shaved and the front cut into bumperettes.

    Right now my goal is to make the thing safe and driveable so I can drive it and enjoy it while I work out the bugs.

    I plan on updating regularly.
    Thanks in advance for all your support.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jun 26, 2013
  2. n847
    Joined: Apr 22, 2010
    Posts: 2,662

    n847
    Member

    Ok I'm on the brakes. I'm going to remove the drums tomorrow and check the condition. Any body got any pointers on removing the drums, before I just start wacking away at em. Needless to say I don't want to cause more trouble for myself. I also don't really understand the adjustment process quite yet, so I guess there's only one way to find out.
     
  3. truckncoupe
    Joined: Apr 4, 2009
    Posts: 1,410

    truckncoupe
    Member

    not much advise for the plymouth but congrats on the coupe !
     
  4. n847
    Joined: Apr 22, 2010
    Posts: 2,662

    n847
    Member

    pics
     

    Attached Files:

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  5. plym_46
    Joined: Sep 8, 2005
    Posts: 3,204

    plym_46
    Member
    from central NY

  6. plym_46
    Joined: Sep 8, 2005
    Posts: 3,204

    plym_46
    Member
    from central NY

    If you look at what you have and decide you want disc brakes go here

    www.rustyhope.com
     
  7. n847
    Joined: Apr 22, 2010
    Posts: 2,662

    n847
    Member

    Thanks, I read the tech tips section on that web sight already, I'm assuming its not the same process for the front. Guess I'll find out tomorrow.
    I've already talked to someone about disc brakes, but I'd like to try out the drums first, what did you do on your 46?
     
  8. plym_46
    Joined: Sep 8, 2005
    Posts: 3,204

    plym_46
    Member
    from central NY

    The fronts come off by removing the dust cap and the spindle nut. Like normal.
    I spent a bunch of money about 10 years ago and had the system all redone with new parts. That was before I found out about the disc conversions. The old guy that did them knew what he was doing and I haven touch them with the exceptio of adding some fluid. They are adequate but I am running 205 75 radials and they probably brake alot better than the 6 70 15 bias plies. I still need to remind myself to leave extra space, as stopping from 60 takes almost 2x longer than modern discs.

    charlies kits are around 200 bucks and the rest of the parts are what you can find them for at AZ or Napa or whatever, he uses GM calipers/pads and MOPAR rotors.

    And you add the bearings and seals and hoses. so probably 3 to 4 hundred in parts.
     
  9. hkestes
    Joined: May 19, 2007
    Posts: 480

    hkestes
    Member
    from Plano, TX

    I originally did like plym 46 and totally rebuilt my stock drum system and it stopped good for a 48 Plymouth. But it still stopped like a 48 Plymouth. My coupe is pretty much a daily driver in and around Dallas area so I went with the disc kit plym 46 posted and am extremely happy with the upgrade. I figure right at aobut $500 complete.
     
  10. James Curl
    Joined: Mar 28, 2006
    Posts: 353

    James Curl
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I have the same brake kit on my 48 as hkestes above. I figure I have about $500.00 in the completed front brake system. I previously had spent about that amount on rebuilding my old drum front brakes with new cylinders, shoes and having the drums turned. Turning the drums required new inner seals so I just replaced the inner bearings and races. Could never get them adjusted to suit me so I changed over to the disc brake kit. At first it didn't seem much better than the drums, but the pads finally bedded in and now I have good brakes.
     
  11. Here's an original grille on a 47 Plymouth. Looks like they removed the
    stainless pieces and were working with the backing piece for the grille.

    Original tail lights and center brake light.

    Original dash.

    Original trim on a coupe.
     

    Attached Files:

  12. missysdad1
    Joined: Dec 9, 2008
    Posts: 1,300

    missysdad1
    Member

    What a great project! Looks like most of the hard fabrication work has already been done...hopefully well done. I wish mine had been as far along when I got it.

    [​IMG]

    I ran a 9-inch combined with stock front brakes and stock master cylinder for a while and it was a disaster! My car would not stop and was downright dangerous. The specs for the front and rear systems are totally different - even the design is different - and they just won't work well together.

    In your place I'd change to discs before I started driving the car, and change to a dual chamber disc/drum master cylinder at the same time. I'm sure some of the guys on here can point you to conversion parts that will work well together.

    [​IMG]

    My coupe now has Mustang II front discs and stops tolerably well. Needs bigger rotors/calipers, though, to really stop well.

    As one of the other guys has already said, if you don't fix the brakes you won't have to worry about restyling the grille. :eek::eek::eek:

    Great project. Keep us informed.

    :)
     
  13. Mr63
    Joined: Jan 31, 2010
    Posts: 130

    Mr63
    Member
    from Gilbert Az

    NIce project N847

    I'm in the same boat with my 47. I not yet decided what direction to go with brakes. It seems to me at this poin the disc conversion is really the way to go.

    Luckly your motor conversion is already done. I still have the stock lhead 6 and have yet to come up with a plan as to what i'm gonna do.

    Do you plan to try to make the current body mods work or go back to stock??

    either way cool project hope to see your progress.
     
  14. n847
    Joined: Apr 22, 2010
    Posts: 2,662

    n847
    Member

    Thanks for all the suggestions. I'm planning on doing the disc upgrade maybe this fall/winter. I'll be evaluating the system over the course of this week. If it comes to replacing any hardware I'll be going to disc sooner than planned. Knowing my uncle who the car came from all the components have probably been replaced. All the front suspension bushings look to be new witch is nice.

    The Mastercylinder appears to be from an 80's blazer, from what I have read it should be able to handle this car. It also has a proportioning valve on it, but it's not adjustable so I may have to put one of those on the list as well.

    Thanks for all the help.
     
  15. n847
    Joined: Apr 22, 2010
    Posts: 2,662

    n847
    Member

    Ok the drums came right off I'm no expert but I thought they looked pretty good, the shoe wear was very even, the front pad linning was .22" at the top and .25" at the bottm, the back pad linning was a very even .22" top and bottom. There was no sign of brake fluid leaking in there, all the bearings look good and well greased, the grease looked fairly new.

    When the drums were on and I spun them there was just a little resistance while it was spinning. I would guess about right.

    Does any one know the spec for the nominal shoe thickness.

    I would asume the procedure to bleed these brakes is to start with the bottom cylinder, then the top.
    If I remember correctly I should start with the wheel farthest from the master cylinder and finish with the closest.

    If all the rest of the wheels look this good I'm going to bleed it out and take her for her maiden voyage. (after I re-install the brake pedal that is.
     

    Attached Files:

  16. hkestes
    Joined: May 19, 2007
    Posts: 480

    hkestes
    Member
    from Plano, TX

    Don't be too quick in deciding to yank out the six unless it is junk. I am still running mine with some upgrades as are several others. The six will draw a lot of interest at a show.

    Here is mine

    [​IMG]

    There is also Blueskies (Pete), and Bloodyknuckles
     

    Attached Files:

  17. n847
    Joined: Apr 22, 2010
    Posts: 2,662

    n847
    Member

    I'm planning on moving the body back toward stock, but not completely, I'll probably try to find some original trim, I will be going the hot rod/custom route but with an old school flavor.

    Thanks for the body and trim pics.
     
  18. Kreepy
    Joined: May 29, 2009
    Posts: 112

    Kreepy
    Member
    from Austin, Tx

    I did the conversion on my moredoor with rustyhopes kit. All in all about 500 in parts. I am starting on the rear brakes today. Good luck on the build. Gott love a 47 plymouth!!!
     
  19. rockable
    Joined: Dec 21, 2009
    Posts: 2,061

    rockable
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I second rustyhope's disc kit. Well done. Besides that, you should buy his front shock mount relocation brackets and do that mod, as well. Eventually, I smell a chop and lower job for that car.................:)
     
  20. n847
    Joined: Apr 22, 2010
    Posts: 2,662

    n847
    Member

    The rear drums look pretty good as well, tomorrow I'll pull her out and back er in to have a go at the passenger side, if all goes well I'll be bleeding by Friday.

    So close to the first drive I can taste it!
     

    Attached Files:

  21. 50dodge4x4
    Joined: Aug 7, 2004
    Posts: 3,244

    50dodge4x4
    Member


    I have all of the grill and some side trim pieces I'd part with if your interested, PM me here. Gene
     
  22. n847
    Joined: Apr 22, 2010
    Posts: 2,662

    n847
    Member

    Well not much to report today. As suspected the passenger side brakes look good, so all seems well, I got the bleeders free, so I should be tackling that project Friday evening. With any luck driving it this weekend.
     

    Attached Files:

  23. n847
    Joined: Apr 22, 2010
    Posts: 2,662

    n847
    Member

    Got the brakes bled out last night, I wanted to replace the cartridge type oil filter, but the adapter I bought from genuine was missing parts, so I was stalled out. The Brakes feel great though. I also bought a wheel seal with the part no. from the P-15 website, but it was not the right one. I need the grease seal for the inside of the drum, on the spindle. I cold pull it and look for numbers, and take measurments, but on the off chance I can drive it this weekend I don't want it out of commision. The old seal is not that bad yet, but it does need replaced. Well off the the parts store to return the junk. I now remember why I only shop at NAPA!
     
  24. n847
    Joined: Apr 22, 2010
    Posts: 2,662

    n847
    Member

    We're almost there got the new oil pan gaskets on tonight. I'm gonna go ahead and replace the plugs, cap, rotor, points and condensor, just so I don't wind up chasing bugs for no reason. I'm hoping to get it on the road by Wednesday. The local cruise in is thursday so I'd like to hit that up. I'm gonna do have to do a little research since I've never had to do a set of points, and I don't own a dwell meter. I've also got to find what the spec. should be set at on a 283 chevy so any pointers would be much appreciated.
     
  25. F&J
    Joined: Apr 5, 2007
    Posts: 9,228

    F&J
    Member
    from CT

    Last edited: May 11, 2010
  26. n847
    Joined: Apr 22, 2010
    Posts: 2,662

    n847
    Member

  27. Mr63
    Joined: Jan 31, 2010
    Posts: 130

    Mr63
    Member
    from Gilbert Az


    I really dig that motor I have tried to fasion mine to look simmiliar but alas its that clean. yet
     
  28. n847
    Joined: Apr 22, 2010
    Posts: 2,662

    n847
    Member

    Just a quick update. I took the maiden voyage last weekend, and made it about a mile before she died. I sat for a minute before it would restart, then ran it back to the house. I'm not too sure if I lost gas, or spark, but I must admit I was still grinning from ear to ear.
    It shakes, it doesn't stop with out pulling to the left, it dumps tons of fumes into the cab through the holes in the floor and fire wall, but I'll address those issues as I go.
    Its about to go back up in the air to drain the tank, and rewire the ignition.

    Thanks to you all for your help so far, I can't wait to get back at it!
     
  29. n847
    Joined: Apr 22, 2010
    Posts: 2,662

    n847
    Member

    got my tach installed, and did a little under dash exploring. Everything looks ok, but I can see a little clean up will be in order.
     

    Attached Files:

  30. n847
    Joined: Apr 22, 2010
    Posts: 2,662

    n847
    Member

    HELP!!!! I'm almost ready to tackle some suspension work, My steering column is from some type of 80's chevrolet, its got tilt but I'm not too concerned with all that junk. I've seen some stuff on guys using cavalier gear boxes. To be honest I'm pretty intimidated to start a project like that with out enough info. I was just wanting some suggestions. I don't have a lot of money so I can't throw down on an aftermarket steering coulmn. So I was just wondering whats the total cost involved in some of these combinations is. I'll try to get some good pics of the cobbled mess that I have now and see what kind of feedback I can get. I'm going to the Sprignfield swap meet this weekend so I will have my eyes peeled. I've just never done any steering work in the past so I want all my ducks in a row. Bring on the experience:)
     

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