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Projects '41 Business Coupe

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Captain Neckbeard, Oct 6, 2012.

  1. Captain Neckbeard
    Joined: Oct 6, 2012
    Posts: 57

    Captain Neckbeard
    Member

    This is my first post here, so please bear with me :D

    I picked up a '41 Plymouth business coupe a couple weeks ago. The body is pristine. There was no rust on it besides a little topical rust on the trunk pan. The interior is really nice as well except for the carpet and door panels were removed prior to my purchasing it. All the glass is good as is all of the chrome trim. The front suspension is IFS in these old Plymouths, but it was totally rebuilt with 0 miles on it. The Guy I had purchased it from had also just put disc brakes on the front and converted it to a 5 bolt Chevy pattern.

    It came with the original rear end still in it, but also came with a 10 bolt rear end with disk brakes out of an '80s firebird.

    As far as extras, it came with 2 chevy motors. One was a 1967 327 out of an Impala and the other was a late 70s 305. It also came with a Flaming River steering column.

    Now I paid $1,200 for all that.

    I also picked up a fresh TH350 and headers to go in it. And I have completely disassembled the 327 to rebuild it.

    My plans are to build a 302 Like in the first Gen. Z28s by taking the freshened 327 block, putting a forged 283 crank in it along with a set of double camel hump heads I have off of a '69 Z28 or power packs of the '67 block, roller rockers, hydraulic lifters and a Pro Comp cam.

    My question is what would be the ideal lift cam? I've been told everything from .450" to .500"+. I'm looking for low end power with a throaty sound.

    Also, would an Edelbrock Performer dual plane intake with a Holley 750 be a better set up to run than an Edelbrock Tunnel Ram with 2 Edelbrock 600s or 2 Holley 450s?

    Also, I still haven't decided what to do from the headers back.

    Any input would be greatly appreciated!!

    Edit: The first three pictures are as I found it. Apparently the car hasnt been driven since 1969 or 1970.

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    Last edited: Oct 8, 2012
  2. BOBCRMAN
    Joined: Nov 10, 2005
    Posts: 658

    BOBCRMAN
    Member
    from Holly

    I have a similar 47Dodge business coupe..The one with three windows and the Looong trunk. 406 sbc 400 turbo.

    If you are primarily street driving this and want the sound. Something like a "Thumper" cam. Keep the intake duration under 228 @ .050. This will ensure good power brake and auto trans function.

    For driveability use the single four intake. Preferably a dual plane. Vac secondary carb..Unless you have a 4.10 gear in the rear and enjoy the stop light drags. Then by all means use the tunnel ram and 450's. When I was a bit younger in the sixties and seventies. I used to run a tunnel ram BBC gasser on the street. Gathered an impressive array of citations. A bit wiser now..
     
  3. Captain Neckbeard
    Joined: Oct 6, 2012
    Posts: 57

    Captain Neckbeard
    Member

    The rear end I'm running is only a 3.73, but I am looking to just build a cruiser, red light to red light rod.

    I've always liked the look of tunnel rams, but I'm concerned with running into vacuum issues. Also, if I run a tunnel ram, will I have to step up my stall converter? Right now I have a 2500, but I've heard of guys having to run 3500 converters with their tunnel ram set ups.
     
  4. daliant
    Joined: Nov 25, 2009
    Posts: 511

    daliant
    Member

    A tunnel rammed 302 would look pretty damn impressive under the hood but that would be more of a high rpm setup, a small single carb w/dual plane manifold would be definately more practical on the street. So I recomend that you build a 9000+ rpm tunnel rammed 302 w/jerico 4 spd behind it, throw a dana 60 under the back with 5.13 gears in it, pie crust slicks, ladder bars, open fenderwell headers etc.. and drive it like you hate it.:D
    got any pics of this little gem?
     
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  5. Captain Neckbeard
    Joined: Oct 6, 2012
    Posts: 57

    Captain Neckbeard
    Member

    Pics are up!

    I'm not too worried about practicality, but budget is definitely a factor :eek:

    I'm already planning on putting 4:10 Posi gears in it. I also have access to a set of 600 cfm Edelbrock carbs to top the tunnel ram with.

    Here's another dilema I'm facing...
    I have a set of 186 double camel hump 2.02 heads off of a '69 Z28, but I also have the Power Pack heads that originally came on the '67 327 block that I'm using. Both are in great shape.

    Which would be the better set of heads to use?

    Also, besides a roller lifter/cam/rocker set what can I do to make it a 9000+ rpm build?
     
  6. farmer12
    Joined: Aug 28, 2006
    Posts: 7,233

    farmer12
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Great to see another Plymouth coupe being built. Watching this one for sure! Welcome to the club.
     
  7. honeyman
    Joined: May 24, 2010
    Posts: 327

    honeyman
    Member
    from Steiner

    What a great platform to start off with...and a pretty inpressive pile of parts to work with as well. Love where you're going with this. May need to look at fender well headers due to steering box issues.
     
  8. Captain Neckbeard
    Joined: Oct 6, 2012
    Posts: 57

    Captain Neckbeard
    Member

    Thanks! I forgot to mention that I picked up an EZ wire GM wiring harness for it as well.

    As far as headers go, I have 2 sets of Headman headers for it. One is a block hugger set, so hopefully one of them will work. If not, I'll just weld up my own set.

    My plan for this week is to have the motor mounts welded up so I can throw one of my spare SBCs and tranny in it. I had to cut the spring perches off the 10 bolt rear end because they were 3" too narrow and I want to throw the spare motor and tranny in it so that I can line the driveline up. I was just going to weld the new spring perches on and eyeball it, but the idea of getting the angle of the driveshaft wrong just worries me.

    I guess it's better to take it slow and do it right the first time.

    I do need tire suggestions as well. I was going to go with the Coker Classic Nostalgia Blackwalls in 650 16, but trying to find 2 16" steelies in the 5x4.75 bolt pattern is proving to be pretty tough. Looks like I may need to just stick to 15"s all around.
     
  9. Captain Neckbeard
    Joined: Oct 6, 2012
    Posts: 57

    Captain Neckbeard
    Member

    So yesterday I got the front end and fenders stripped, sanded, dents hammered out and primed. Now I need to finish the body and deck lid today and tomorrow.

    Next I need to come up with an effective way to drop just the front end 2" while I have the front end off. Any ideas besides drop spindles would be greatly appreciated!
     
  10. Captain Neckbeard
    Joined: Oct 6, 2012
    Posts: 57

    Captain Neckbeard
    Member

    A couple of pics I just took. Just finished the second coat of primer and undercoated the fire well and rear fender wells. just waiting for it to cure, then wet sand, dry time and she's ready to paint!!

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  11. Scotch Buzzard King
    Joined: Apr 28, 2007
    Posts: 1,103

    Scotch Buzzard King
    Member

    Those headlights are bad ass.
     
  12. 38fordpickup
    Joined: Feb 21, 2007
    Posts: 3,013

    38fordpickup
    Member

    No advice here, just a comment--you must be living right to find a bargain like that. Your Plymouth would have been a great deal if you'd paid 2x what you did. You are way ahead of the game starting with one that solid. Always liked the front end styling on a '41 Plymouth.
     
  13. Bmac40Ply
    Joined: Nov 28, 2011
    Posts: 28

    Bmac40Ply
    Member

    I have a 40' Plymouth, and I read if you cut one coil off the front springs that should lower you 2 to 3 inches in the front and it will actually make the ride a little better. I haven't done it yet, but plan to soon.
     
  14. Captain Neckbeard
    Joined: Oct 6, 2012
    Posts: 57

    Captain Neckbeard
    Member

    Thanks guys. I just happened to place a WTB ad on a local firearm forum and another member contacted me and the rest is history.

    I may just try cutting a coil as I happen to have an extra set.

    Thanks guys!!
     
  15. Bmac40Ply
    Joined: Nov 28, 2011
    Posts: 28

    Bmac40Ply
    Member

    If you do cut a coil, post a pic of how it turns out.
     
  16. hkestes
    Joined: May 19, 2007
    Posts: 480

    hkestes
    Member
    from Plano, TX

    I cut 1.25 coils off the springs on my 48 Plymouth coupe and it dropped it about 1.5 to 2 inches. The springs on the old Mopars are easy to remove / install so sneak up on it don't try cutting it all off at once.

    Another option is to grind off the rivets that hold the plate containg the lower spring mount to thetop of the bottom A arm. Flip the plate to the bottom of the A Arm and weld it back on. Lowers the front end without changing the spring rate or ride characteristics.

    With either of these methods do yourself a favor and relocate the top shock mount to the frame rather than the upper A arm while you have your front end apart. Take a look at this thread for a how to. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=215548&highlight=plymouth shock mount

    Finally my suggestion would be to sell all the Chebbie stuff and buy a good 360 / 727 but that is just me.
     
  17. Captain Neckbeard
    Joined: Oct 6, 2012
    Posts: 57

    Captain Neckbeard
    Member

    I am considering adding louvers to the hood. I haven't seen a '41 with them though. What do you guys think?

    Also, this car came with ALL of the chrome and SS trim. I've decided I'm going to put almost all of it back on except for the bumpers and the trunk handle/center brake light. The body is getting Satin British Racing Green, which is almost black and then solid white, '50s-esque fat flames.
     
  18. Royalshifter
    Joined: May 29, 2005
    Posts: 15,245

    Royalshifter
    Moderator
    from California

    Cool man use all the trim....those cars had beautiful brightwork?
     
  19. roachba
    Joined: Oct 12, 2012
    Posts: 5

    roachba
    Member

    I love the 40s business coupes I just got a 48 chevy business coupe a week ago and have been getting ready to start on it.
     
  20. Bugsy
    Joined: Dec 27, 2008
    Posts: 1,156

    Bugsy
    Member
    from Kansas

    Hands down, one of the sexiest, Deco rides ever built!! Have fun with it!!!!!!!!!!!!
     
  21. Captain Neckbeard
    Joined: Oct 6, 2012
    Posts: 57

    Captain Neckbeard
    Member

    Hey guys...

    So I have a chance to put a freshly built big block 400 that was bored .40 over. It has a high rise aluminum Edelbrock intake with a Holley 750 and 1" riser. It also has Hooker super comp headers and a bunch more "performance" stuff. I helped my dad build it a few years ago. There's also a big block 727 torque flight trans that comes with it.

    I was also offered a mopar 8 3/8" rear end with "1/8 mile" gears which are 5:38-1 ratio. 8 teeth on pinion, 43 on ring gear with Posi unit. 742 case (2070742)


    So what do you guys think? Keep it Mopar or go with the SBC motor/trans/rear end?
    Thanks guys!
    -Adam
     
  22. 1951Streamliner
    Joined: May 15, 2011
    Posts: 1,869

    1951Streamliner
    Member
    from Reno, NV

    Looks solid, love the styling on these cars.

    Why no bumpers? They have a purpose....

    Hope you dont put a tilt column in it.......... :)
     
  23. Captain Neckbeard
    Joined: Oct 6, 2012
    Posts: 57

    Captain Neckbeard
    Member

    Well, I have both the Flaming River column (tilt) and the stock steering column. Is there any reason why the stock column wouldn't work?? If I can go with the stock column, then I could sell or trade the Flaming River column to help zip this project up.
     
  24. servi53
    Joined: Jun 28, 2006
    Posts: 338

    servi53
    Member

    you've got a nice looking mopar, keep it all mopar and it'll be awesome, can't wait to see this one come together
     
  25. Captain Neckbeard
    Joined: Oct 6, 2012
    Posts: 57

    Captain Neckbeard
    Member

    Looks like she's going to stay all MOPAR except for the rear end.

    So here's the motor that's going in her...

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    Build specs:
    400ci Big Block bored 0.030" over (which makes it about a 406ci)
    Forged steel crank .010" over
    Holley 750cfm double pumper with manual choke
    Edelbrock Performer aluminum intake
    1" riser plate
    Hooker Super Comp Headers
    Mopar Performance purple shaft Cam and Lifter set
    Lift- .484"/.484"
    Adv. Duration- 284 degree
    Aluminum high flow water pump
    High torque starter
    Mopar Performance electronic distributer
    High volume Mopar Performance oil pump
    Windage Tray
     
    Last edited: Oct 17, 2012
  26. that is a great car. please put the bumpers on it!
     
  27. Captain Neckbeard
    Joined: Oct 6, 2012
    Posts: 57

    Captain Neckbeard
    Member

    In the end I may run bumpers, but they need to be re-chromed before I will mount them, and I have a lot of things lined up before that can happen.
     
  28. servi53
    Joined: Jun 28, 2006
    Posts: 338

    servi53
    Member

    dig that big motor, that thing's gonna scream, keep us updated
     
  29. Captain Neckbeard
    Joined: Oct 6, 2012
    Posts: 57

    Captain Neckbeard
    Member

    Haha... I just realized I forgot to list what size the block was!

    My dad, little brother and I built the motor for a 1970 Plymouth Sport Satellite about 10 years ago, but my dad gave the car to my brother and he decided to stick with the stock 318 :confused:

    Now I need to figure out how to make those Hooker headers work or find a new set.
     
  30. frankenstein1948
    Joined: May 23, 2008
    Posts: 713

    frankenstein1948
    Member

    I see you found the h.a.m.b.
    I agree it needs the bupers and stick with the stock column.
    Nice work so far and i think it's cool that you are putting mopar power in it.
     

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