For a long time I have been dreaming of building a inspired build of this barris 41 buick. Not an exact clone but my way with the hambs input. Something pre 52 customs by the sea friendly. Clean and classy Starting with a 5 window 41 special. I dont want cut up a real convertible nor do i want to pay the entry fee. Unless i find a clapped out project. My first big question here is structural stuff . Most buicks ive seen had a stout x-frame and i assume should be sufficient. I'm not that familiar with 41s. I plan on stock running gear str8,torque tube,etc. Other than beefing up the bracing at the firewall, A pillars and behind the rear seat. Any thoughts? Of course the vent windows need hardtop/ conv grafted and the doortops need modifying . What else needs to be done? Photoshops/ dreamers and naysayers welcome to chime in. I know your out there.
Have a look on the Custom Car Chronicle forum. A 41 Buick with Cad front clip being built right now by Doug Charter from Melbourne Aust. Somebody post a link please?? I can't seem to do it off my ph.
Im honored you guys both chimed in. Im a fan of both your work ..rickster's 2 websites and cadmads caddy build. I follow both regularly. Thank you. Still the replies didn't answer my question.; Is it a realistic idea to take A 40 series 5 window and build a carson top car similar to the barris/ ogden car? And what would it take to make it safe and astheticly pleasing. Im seriously considering doing this project. Im realistically thinking a 40 series will be smaller ( fit in my garage ) and the 5 window will allow me to use the existing trunk. A 50 super is considerable. A 70 series buick or cadillac is too big for my space. And a converting 4dr sedan is more work than i like becouse of the trunk line. I can,paint ,weld, fabricate,sew etc. Not into welding frames or big horsepower. Just safe and simple. I figure 5 years would be realistic with life the way it is.
Hi Hacknwhack You will never know unless you have a go ...where I live ....I have to make do with whats available and make every thing else ..making the trunk line quarter panel is a challenge from a 4 door......but it nearly finished
If you buy one that needs floors, don't bother buying any aftermarket floor panels. I just finished replacing the entire floor in my 39, wasted ~ 30 hrs trying to use floor panels. Should have just rebuilt it from scratch from the beginning, which is what I ended up doing anyway. If you want one, have the shop and the skills, make it happen. 2 years ago I started with no metal working skills at all. Some night classes and help from friends who shared their wisdom, taught / showed me how to do it, and the car is almost back on the road.
You know what you want, and that trumps. Still, it seems a bit of a shame for a coupe to lose its top, when they can look this good.
I would think the body area behind the door is also going to need to have considerable strengthening done to it to keep it from splaying out once all it's support is gone from the removal of the roof.
Thanks for the replies fellas. Mo has a point but i kinda just built that style with my 51. I agree there is a lot of bracing to do . I think im capapable of reinforcing the body in a stealthly manor. Maybe using a fisher body manual. Still concerned with the frame. Other than the extra body mounts, is there any other differences?
Hi K13 .... You are spot on with the strengthening in the rear quarter.....its not only the quarter panel post its the whole rear tub needs sheet metal fabrication right around behind the rear seat swab that seals the trunk for strength as well...Hacknwack needs to find some photos of a striped out convertible to see what to fabricate.....My project is the same 41 Caddy 4 door to a 2 door Carson top.....big job but worth while when finished...just need to be patient and think a lot before you cut anything....I've used cut down 41 Buick coupe doors and sections of the Buick quarter panels to help assemble my car....
Thanks morac41. Thats a huge undertaking you have for a home shop. I can see myself getting that deep in a project. I dont have an english wheel to build the trunk. I could get one if it came to that. Moredoors are easy to find round here. I Just want to keep it simple. Yaril has a 41 buick convert on deck for a build. I know he is also looking for a hood for it. Maybe we can get him in This thread. Or talk him out of it and send it my way. Haha
You need an english wheel. Just a cheap Chinese one is all I have. $400. sellit once you are done. Great thing about a custom is that there are no rules. Just solutions. If it needs strengthening. . . strengthen it!. The X member on the 40s and 50s convs usually had a bit more beef. I know on the late 30s coupe vs conv it was just a bigger plate top and bottom. Steel is cheap. Great thing is that you can rollunder most factory cars and have look. . . . so long as some bastard customiser hasn't dropped in a bloody speedboat stance.!!
Hi Hacknwack....I've been building hot rods and customs since the 50s and have only used hammers..dolly's..sand bags...large wood stump and an anvil to shape metal ..any one can do it ...... it just takes practice ... learn how to lead wipe..use a file to find the highs and lows..... practice ...practice
@CadMad, I feel we like just got an update on your build. Looking good. Did you sneak the Norwegian Zephyr in to see if we were paying attention.? As for welding frames its always been Illegal in my mind. Its what i was tought at a young age. I try to my best ,to avoid it . With modern equipment im slowly getting over it. After 30 years of fixing cars profesionaly safety is number 1. If it comes down to boxing the frame and building out at the x member then I'll have to.
The frames are just mild steel. You can weld and stiffen and box all day long but check with your local registration authorities prior. But if your not changing geometry or suspension, who would know? The X member makes it very strong . As yet I have not reinforced the x member of my Sixty Special from original but will add heavier plates in the middle of the X. I restored a rusty 53 chassis. I used a sedan donor chassis. The side rails were the same but the conv X member was considerably heavier. Interestingly, 41 Cad convs had a chassis brace added mid production, I believe.
Hi Q .....Can you update me on the 41 cad chassis brace mod.........my chassis has a 3/16 top and bottom rail on the X member
Yes im good with that stuff In smaller areas. I have a nice colection of antique metal shaping tools and Enjoy the proccess of moving metal. But fabricating a panel as big as a trunk gets respect from me. Willing try but we all have limits... I stay away from lead now for health reasons. Thanks
Hi ... Have a look at different roof panels ..you will find one very close to the shape you need...The tail of the 4 door trunk lid will be the same as a longer coupe ..cut and join to get the length you require..have a look at Cadmans trunk where he has extended it half way up to get the length..He has shifted the rear of the body forward......There was a chap in Mass selling a 40 Buick coupe trunk lid for $200 late last year you just have to keep trolling Ebay parts and you will find one pretty cheap...its not the outer skin that's a problem... its making a inner frame although you could use a pipe frame and attach the skin to it ...have seen it done on a lot of sports cars to keep weight down.I have been lead loading on and off all my life its never affected me...in my 70's..... I only use it in an open area where there is a draft....creates good surface tension over welds.....I think bondo would be more of a health hazard..the dust is full of carcinogenic resins
Hi hacknwack...Have been researching the chassis on my 41Caddy more door to a Carson top 2 door conversion ...It definitely needs to have a X member up grade...Took a while to find the photos...the Caddy convertible defiantly has a reinforced X member both on top and bottom ...probally 5mm plate......I will do this to my chassis to up grade it to convert spec's.........
Some good ideas and advice here. I'm still waiting for the "if you want a convertible start with a convertible. " If i find one rough enough And affordable i will. Found a lead on a 41 super convertible roller. Wish me luck.
You will pay a premium for a convertible. The beauty of customising is not being restrained. . . and the constant evaluation of the individual needs that your build dictates. Steel is cheap. You can cut it grind it weld it bash it hack it and wack it. Look to as many other builds that you like and that will help guide you. I would probably not customise a conv unless it was aparts car or missing stuff or cheap. Luckily i have some genuine Eldorados that need restoring but i wouldn't dare modify them. My 39 Was an orphan and now it is better (to me) than it was prior to me getting it. Plus it's fun.!
I have to admit i have restoration guilt on some projects. Cutting a 30s Eldo Never. I figure within 2 years and i will settle on something. Still looking for custom fodder.
Hi I'm with Q (cadman) here.. I wouldn't cut up a convertible ...but make one fabing parts .. OK .... I've seen a few 40's Buick and Caddy converts for sale in the US this year that have been rusted real bad but they are still bringing 12-15k because of the production builds...a lot of "greens" before you even start.....Also....chassis has to be strengthened .... have found some pics the X member..... has plates top and bottom as well as side plates....Hope you find the Buick super ..same as Caddy body...C floor plan
hackandwhack, I just sent you a link to a '41 coupe here in so cal for sale that already has the top whacked off.
Thanks for the link. Seeing that gave me second thoughts. The Ogden buick is a roadmaster. Seems that the shorter bodys wont have the same feel. The hamb lead on a super conv was sold. There is a 41 r.m. conv around here i have to track down. They wanted 20k 10years ago. Stay tuned
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