Register now to get rid of these ads!
  1. Hey fellas, just in case you missed it - The Rodder's Journal and The Jalopy Journal is celebrating 20 years of bringing you traditional hot rods and customs by offering you a one-year subscription to TRJ and a H.A.M.B. Alliance membership for only $75. Click here for details.

40 ford door adjustment

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Capt.Mike, May 26, 2010.

  1. Capt.Mike
    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2009
    Posts:
    61
    Location:
    Concord, NC

    Capt.Mike Member

    How do you adjust the doors on a 1940 Ford 2 Dr Sedan? Since there appears to be no adjustment in the hinges I am guessing you have to torque the body mounts. Having never tried this before I could use some help.
    The drivers door is about 1/2" to low at the latch. The right door is fine.
    I have the vehicle on a level surface.

    The project is fun but progressing slowly. I did attempt to start the engine this week, after sitting for 16 months. A clean carb, new wires and plugs, new fuel pump and lines and a cleaned out tank with fresh fuel did the trick on the first crank. I was like a kid in a candy store. The 5.0, running through new Flowmasters, sounds great.
  2. 36-3window
    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2002
    Posts:
    10,797
    Location:
    in my own little world

    36-3window Member

    is the driver's door just low because the hinges are worn out? how are the door gaps?
  3. 39 All Ford
    Joined:
    Sep 15, 2008
    Posts:
    1,531
    Location:
    Benton AR

    39 All Ford Member

    I mocked up my 39 Coupe doors last week, If 1/2" low at the striker, the gap at the top front of the door must be too big OR the gap at the front bottom must be too small.

    You can get away with bending the hinges just a little before they start looking screwed up, and the cowl posts will "adjust" a little if you use the right tool. The first time I mocked my doors I made a tool by welding a small plate to a 20" x 1" square tube and bolting the plate to the hinge mount.

    This will provide good leverage and control.
  4. milwscruffy
    Joined:
    Aug 29, 2006
    Posts:
    2,010
    Location:
    Lost in Space

    milwscruffy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER


    Please keep in mind that the hinge pin holes are meant to be in line with one another so tweaking things may screw that up. A long piece of 1/4" rod should be able to pass throgh both hinges at once. On most all that i have done , i have had to take the door off the A-pillar with the hinges still on the door and then drill out or grind the remaining bolts. Everyone that i have touched has had the bolts welded to the hinges. It's a fair amount of work but after doing this you can get much more adjustment on the door.
    Register now to get rid of these ads!

  5. Capt.Mike
    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2009
    Posts:
    61
    Location:
    Concord, NC

    Capt.Mike Member

    Here are some pictures of the problem. The hinges are bolted on which can give some adjustment in and out. The gap on the front is even from the bottom to the top hinge than it begins to widen. On the rear of the door the gap is pretty even top to bottom. Of course the gap at the top goes from 1/4" at the front to almost 1" at the rear. The right door is about 1/4" gap all around. The body seems to be in the correct position and is not bowed or warped. I installed new pads all around when I put the body back on the frame.

    This was a project-in-progress that I bought. All though it had a pretty coat of paint on it the frame still had cracks and cuts that required it's removal for repair.

    Attached Files:

    • 039.JPG
      039.JPG
      File size:
      140.5 KB
      Views:
      106
    • 040.JPG
      040.JPG
      File size:
      108.4 KB
      Views:
      96
    • 042.JPG
      042.JPG
      File size:
      137.6 KB
      Views:
      94
    • 043.JPG
      043.JPG
      File size:
      134.7 KB
      Views:
      92
    • 044.JPG
      044.JPG
      File size:
      133.2 KB
      Views:
      90
    • 045.JPG
      045.JPG
      File size:
      131.3 KB
      Views:
      91
    • 046.JPG
      046.JPG
      File size:
      127 KB
      Views:
      82
  6. Capt.Mike
    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2009
    Posts:
    61
    Location:
    Concord, NC

    Capt.Mike Member

    Also - the hinges look almost new. They have no play or wobble in them.
  7. vintageauto
    Joined:
    May 8, 2009
    Posts:
    1,372
    Location:
    Manchester, Maryland

    vintageauto
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    It may not be the hinge(s). Try shimming the body. I have a chart/booklet that shows where to shim the body for this type of problem and other alignment problems. I'll try to find it. I got it a few months ago on ebay. Its a pretty good reference for many 30's-40's cars.

    Murph

  8. vintageauto
    Joined:
    May 8, 2009
    Posts:
    1,372
    Location:
    Manchester, Maryland

    vintageauto
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Below is the description of the body shimming guide for a 1940 Ford.. I think its what you need. I have the details where to get it on ebay.

    Murph


    So the much awaited time has come to bolt your body back onto the frame...your project is going to really start looking like a car again! The trouble is, it isn't that simple! I can't tell you how frustrating it is to try and get the body bolted down and shimmed correctly so all of the doors open and close nicely! A shim here, a gap there...it can really be a challenge to get things right. This auction is for a guide which is intended to take much of the guess work out of making the necessary adjustments when properly aligning the doors in the door opening on your car when bolting the body back on. This information is taken from old body shop manuals from the 50's when guys did this sort of work daily...back before the uni-body!
    The best thing about this guide is that it is not body specific. The principals outlined can be used for any body designed/built in the 1930's, 40's,50's, and many 1960's model vehicles.
    These sheets use condition/remedy scenarios which show unfavorable door gaps, and the shim remedy to fix the issue. It is important to note that this is not a complicated manifesto in mechanical engineering! It is intended to be a basic guide in properly shimming a body as it was done at the factory.
    Please note: This is not a crappy black and white photo copy from an old Chilton's! With this auction you will receive a NEW, CAD-Clear, Color, large format 8.5x11" 8 page guide. The body illustrated is a 1940 Ford, but again it is universal to all bodies from that era. The charts will come rolled in a sturdy shipping tube...not folded up in an envelope to make it there on a dime!
    Thanks for looking, please see my other items for Frame dimensions and rare collectible speed parts.
  9. vintageauto
    Joined:
    May 8, 2009
    Posts:
    1,372
    Location:
    Manchester, Maryland

    vintageauto
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    The sellers username on ebay is: ilovetmatt27

    Here is the auction opening, I paid $6.00 bucks for it.

    <table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" width="100%"><tbody><tr><td colspan="2">Body Shimming Guide 1935 36 37 38 39 40 Ford nos COLOR
    Color - 8-pg - Clear Drawings - NOT a crumby Photocopy!



    </td></tr><tr><td class="ipics-cell"><form name="ssFrm" action="http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?VISuperSize&item=370350581646" target="ssFrmWin" method="post"><input name="ssr" value="0" type="hidden"><input name="iurls" value="0#http://i.ebayimg.com/04#!BmjQL6!CGk~$(KGrHqIOKjYEtkGY!prWBLgBDYJ41w~~_14.JPG#!BmjQL6!CGk~$(KGrHqIOKjYEtkGY!prWBLgBDYJ41w~~_12.JPG" type="hidden"><input name="dtid" value="0" type="hidden"><input name="vs" value="1" type="hidden"><input name="sh" value="0" type="hidden"><input name="title" value="Body Shimming Guide 1935 36 37 38 39 40 Ford nos COLOR" type="hidden"></form><table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody><tr><td class="vs_w-a"><center>[​IMG]</center>
    Please wait
    Image not available




    </td></tr></tbody></table>
    [​IMG]

    </td><td class="isumv1_5-cell"><form name="v4-28" id="v4-28" method="post" class="vi-is1-s4" action=""><table class="vi-is1" border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0"><tbody><tr><td colspan="4" height="10">
    </td></tr><tr><td class="vi-is1-lbl">Item condition:</td><td colspan="3" class="vi-is1-clr">New</td></tr><tr><td colspan="4" height="10">
    </td></tr><tr><td class="vi-is1-lbl">Ended:</td><td colspan="3" class="vi-is1-clr">Mar 16, 201006:34:45 PDT</td></tr><tr><td colspan="4" height="10">
    </td></tr><tr><td class="vi-is1-lbl">Bid history:</td><td colspan="3" class="vi-is1-clr">1 bid</td></tr><tr><td colspan="4" height="10">
    </td></tr><tr><td colspan="4" class="vi-is1-bdr">
    </td></tr><tr><td class="vi-is1-lblp vi-is1-solidBg">Sold For:</td><td class="vi-is1-solid vi-is1-tbll">US $6.10</td><td colspan="2" class="vi-is1-solid vi-is1-tblb">
    </td></tr><tr><td colspan="4" class="vi-is1-solid" height="10">
    </td></tr><tr id="v4-32"><td colspan="4" class="vi-is1-bdr">
    </td></tr><tr><td colspan="4" height="10">
    </td></tr><tr><td colspan="4" height="20">
    </td></tr><tr><td colspan="4" height="20">
    </td></tr><tr><td class="vi-is1-lbl">Shipping:</td><td colspan="3" class="vi-is1-clr">$1.50 US Postal Service Parcel Post See more services <table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" width="334"><tbody><tr id="chngLoctid"><td class="olp-tl">Start of layer</td><td class="olp-tr" width="18">
    </td></tr><tr><td class="olp-ml" height="45"><label for="clcountry" class="sh-Cntry">Country:</label><select class="sh-TxtCnt" id="clcountry" name="country" onchange='return vjo.Registry._5.handle("change");'><option value="0">Show all available</option><option value="1" selected="selected">United States</option></select>

    <label id="clZipCodeTextDiv" for="clzipCode" class="sh-TxtStyl sh-zipLeftAlign sh-hideElement">ZIP Code:</label><input id="clzipCode" size="12" name="zipCode" class="sh-TxtCnt sh-hideElement sh-enblBox sh-TxtCnt" disabled="disabled" type="text">




    Service and other details:

    <table id="v4-33_tab_0" border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" width="100%"><thead><tr class="dt-tblHdr"><th scope="col" id="v4-33_tab_0_srtHCol_0" class="dt-colCnt dt-rowSeptr dt-colHdr dt-alignLft" colspan="1" width="0%">Service
    </th><th scope="col" id="v4-33_tab_0_srtHCol_1" class="dt-colCnt dt-rowSeptr dt-colHdr dt-alignLft" colspan="1" width="0%">Estimated delivery*
    </th><th scope="col" id="v4-33_tab_0_srtHCol_2" class="dt-colCnt dt-rowSeptr dt-colHdr dt-alignLft" colspan="1" width="0%">Price
    </th></tr></thead><tbody><tr><td scope="row" id="v4-33_tab_0_srtCol_0_0" class="dt-colCnt dt-rowSeptr dt-alignLft sh-RowBrdr" rowspan="1" colspan="1">US Postal Service Parcel Post
    </td><td id="v4-33_tab_0_srtCol_0_1" class="dt-colCnt dt-rowSeptr dt-alignLft sh-RowBrdr" rowspan="1" colspan="1">3-10 business days

    </td><td id="v4-33_tab_0_srtCol_0_2" class="dt-colCnt dt-rowSeptr dt-alignLft sh-RowBrdr" rowspan="1" colspan="1">$1.50
    </td></tr><tr><td scope="row" id="v4-33_tab_0_srtCol_1_0" class="dt-colCnt dt-alignLft sh-RowBrdr" rowspan="1" colspan="1">Local Pickup
    </td><td id="v4-33_tab_0_srtCol_1_1" class="dt-colCnt dt-alignLft sh-RowBrdr" rowspan="1" colspan="1">
    </td><td id="v4-33_tab_0_srtCol_1_2" class="dt-colCnt dt-alignLft sh-RowBrdr" rowspan="1" colspan="1">Free
    </td></tr></tbody></table>


    *The estimated delivery time is based on the seller's handling time, the shipping service selected, and the payment method selected. Sellers are not responsible for shipping service transit times. Transit times may vary, particularly during peak periods.





    Click To Close

    </td><td class="olp-mr">
    </td></tr><tr id="chngLocbid"><td class="olp-bl">End of layer</td><td class="olp-br">
    </td></tr></tbody></table>
    <input id="chngLocPnlJSId" value="7chngLoc" type="hidden"><wbr>See shipping discounts <table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" width="175"><tbody><tr id="disPnltid"><td class="olp-tl">Start of layer</td><td class="olp-tr" width="18">
    </td></tr><tr><td class="olp-ml" height="45"><table class="vi-is1-s9" width="99%"><tbody><tr><td style="">
    </td></tr></tbody></table>



    </td><td class="olp-mr">
    </td></tr><tr id="disPnlbid"><td class="olp-bl">End of layer</td><td class="olp-br">
    </td></tr></tbody></table>
    | See all shipping details</td></tr></tbody></table>
    </form></td></tr></tbody></table>
  10. Capt.Mike
    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2009
    Posts:
    61
    Location:
    Concord, NC

    Capt.Mike Member

    Thanks guys.
  11. 2345.coupe
    Joined:
    Jan 17, 2009
    Posts:
    440
    Location:
    Tupper Lake, N. Y.,12986

    2345.coupe
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    here's a old body man's trick, simple and easy..........jack on the back of the door, let it down, check, repeat several times each time going a little higher, then check.........
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    I need more weight in my car to finish the door alignment so I'll finish it when the motor and trans are installed.......
  12. okiedokie
    Joined:
    Jul 5, 2005
    Posts:
    1,339
    Location:
    Ok

    okiedokie
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    I did the shim shuffle on my 40 coupe to align the doors. Man, that took some trial and error. Buy the chart. Joe
  13. alchemy
    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2002
    Posts:
    7,428
    Location:
    M'town, Iowa

    alchemy
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    If the gap between the hinges is correct, the problem is the shims under the mounting bolts. Don't bend the hinges.

    Your problem needs a shim under the bolt right at the A post to cure. Do not put a shim under the front edge of the cowl too, as you need to swing the door upward at the A post.

    You may find a need to install a smaller shim under the B post as well if you can't get a good gap at the back of the door (if you go too far and can't get it back down), but this is a very slight possibility.

    Start with a 1/16" shim under the A pillar, driver's side only.
  14. Capt.Mike
    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2009
    Posts:
    61
    Location:
    Concord, NC

    Capt.Mike Member

    Thanks again. I ordered the book. I just got home from working on one of the fire crews at Charlotte Motor Speedway so I am out of gas for tonight (it was fun though). I'll try a few shims tomorrow just to start getting a feel for how it works.

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2013 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.