Projects '36DD - (My Double Duty 3-window build.)

Yeah, as Frog says only seen this today... wow, looking bloody awesome.

 

Thanks for the great comments everyone.

Just had to try one more thing before I blow it all apart again.
This is the stance with the back dropped and the skirts on. It ain't gonna' go any lower than this without dropping another tire size - the rear fender is right on top of the tire...



And realistically, I don't think it really needs to go any lower.
I never wanted the "layin' frame" look, and the cool thing is, it sets down here without any of the goofy "collapsed' front end look that's all too common on low cars.



So, now it's time to stop playing, and get back to work...

Bear

 

Good call; well said......

 

Lookin good Bear!

Sent via carrier pidgeon & smoke signals with the HAMB App

 

Cheers for that Rokit and Outback.

I've been looking for 'light' jobs to do on this while my shoulder is recovering, so the body remains mocked up on the frame for now.
I bought a small diameter '56 Chev steering wheel at LARS last year, and had been looking at different options for a suitable column, but couldn't find anything I was real happy with. So, as is happening more and more with this build, I figured I was gonna' have to make one.

While walking the swapmeet at this year's LARS, I spotted a '56 column and steering box going cheap, so grabbed that, then went to Lowes and got a $3 hacksaw, cut the steering box off of the column, hurled the box in the trash and the rest of the column into my suitcase.

I wanted a smooth tube that I can have chromed, so I got a piece of 1 3/4" exhaust tube, and had the muffler shop swage the end up to 2" to match the '56 column diameter.



I saved the very top section of the '56 tube to give me the mounting for the signal housing, then tigged the two sections together.



This way I have self-cancelling signals and functioning horn, with a thinner period correct looking tube, and can run one of Limeworks' '40 style column drops.

I've been having to mock things up approximately with my left hand drive '40 dash. I finally found a RHD one, ( thanks to the HAMB classifieds) which is currently on a ship between the US and NZ. Still can't believe there was one sitting in Ohio!



Meantime, I have temporarily set up a bearing in the bottom of the column, but will fine tune the overall length and get the shaft splined once the correct dash is in.



Bear

 

I always look in Ohio for right hand drive dashes! Where else would you bother?

 

Wow! Incredible workmanship

 

Great looking ride!! earlier post my phone must have typed it in my pocket

 

Why spline it? Much easier to machine a double-D, and then the shaft will match the name of the car.

 

Absolutely beautiful fabrication skills. It's a shame you can't just mount it in a exploded view display, and just charge tickets for tours. It looks amazing, and is very difficult to fathom that all of that beauty shall soon be unseen.......YOU, my friend....are bad ass. One shoulder and all. Hate to see ya' at one hundred percent.....really make me look foolish as is. WOW.

 

Good spotting! I had never even thought about that connection!
Actually, the only U-joint we used to have readily available over here that didn't require splining was an Aussie Holden one that was for a 9/16 shaft with one flat, and the joint locked on with a cotter pin. They always seemed to eventually slog out and get a bunch of play on the shaft, so that kinda' put me off the idea of milling a flat on the shaft. The double-D works on a quite different principle, so I probably should give it a chance.
Thanks for the suggestion, I'm definitely gonna' run with that!

Bear

 

Bear, look at the Borgeson web site and buy direct even with freight still works out cheaper than paying NZ prices.

 

Thanks for the huge compliments! I've been called an ass before, but never bad ass!
You're right about the detail stuff getting covered up - I can't believe how much of it has disappeared once the body has gone on.
As I've said before, I'm really just learning how to do this stuff as I go along. I find that if I can visualize the end result, I can usually find a way of making the part to get it pretty close.

I'm now making a cover for where the rear crossmember protrudes thru' the trunk floor. Once again, I haven't tried this kind of work before, but I think I've figured out a way to get there.

I made up a wooden 'buck' to hammer up the side sections and slowly worked the metal over with a panel hammer.






Then I checked the two pieces to make sure they were symmetrical.



Next, I plan on rolling up a flat panel to separate the two sides and form a 'lid'.

Bear

 

I guess Leonardo Da Vinci was also a first timer at some point.....huh? Man, you got it good. A little bit of ingenuity goes a long way......that also shall be bad ass......me thinks.

 

Nice work bear! I used to do this sort of thing making molds for rotation molded plastic tanks (all corners had to be a radius to release nicely), it is very rewarding when you finish......especially when you drive down the road years later and see one of the tanks from the mold you made on the back of a truck. I love working with steel!!!!

 

Thanks for that, I've bought off them before. Probably gonna' get one of the double joints this time to keep things simple.

 

Cheers, Wade. I love working with steel too!

I formed up a strip for the top section, then welded everything together. After a bit of sanding and hammering I got it to a stage where I'm quite happy with it.






I'm fairly sure that I could get it a bit nicer if I had a second attempt, but I think that with a couple of good coats of primer and a block, this one should paint up pretty good.



Either way, it sure looks better than a hole in the floor!

Bear

 

That looks great,nice work!

 

What are you talking about ?? If I had made it.....the JB weld would have already fallen out....and the bondo would be cracked pretty in pink. That looks fukn' awesome dude !! Now you are really trying to make us cry. I respond better to having sticks thrown at me. WANHHHHHH !!

 

Keep up the great work.


Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!

 

Not a lot been happening here lately, but I think I've finally got a plan sorted for my seat. Been reworking a van seat and making up mounts/risers etc.

I'll post up some more detailed pics soon.

Bear

 

What sort of van is that out of Bear? Looks like you have widened it too.....is that right?

 

It's a rear seat out of some Japanese people mover thingy. Didn't bother to find out too much more. I widened the seat backs 'cos they originally fitted around the rear wheel arches and just had a light steel rod extension frame on the outer sides. Thing that appealed to me about this particular seat is that the backs fold forward to dead level, which will be great for loading stuff into the area behind the seat. When I'm done with it it should look pretty much at home in there.


This is kinda' the look I'm going for...



Bear

 

Hi Sir,
find your attention to detail quite inspiring, and methodical approach humbling enough to make it look both 'factory' and easier than I know it is. Enjoying your thread, and appreciate the updates.

Cheers,
Drewfus
P.S. please tinker with your T as opportunity presents itself, as I've admired that car from a distance for a long, long, time., and look forward to seeing it out and about again.

 

Here's a TTT!
I'd like to see a pic of the front of the coupe at ride height, with grille mounted!

 

Thanks very much for the kind words. It's very satisfying when others 'get' where I'm going with this build. All along I have been trying to keep things looking kinda' factory, but with a hot-roddy twist. In order to get the stance I wanted, it seems like 'everything' needs to be modified or scratch built, and while it's taking a lot longer than I would have liked, I'm actually getting a kick out of designing and building each little piece along the way

And you're right about it looking a lot easier than it really is. Posting finished pieces on here can be deceiving - nobody shows pictures of their scrap bin! I figure I've got well over 40 hours in the seat alone, and I've still got a long ways to go. (And once it's upholstered absolutely none of this work will be visible!)

The frame I started off with was a rear seat out of a van, and folded away when not in use, so didn't have any sliders. Consequently, I had to make up new bottom mounts and adapt some seat tracks from another vehicle. I searched through a local wreckers and found the heaviest pair of sliders they had, then set about making them work.
We have some pretty strict rules on seat mounting over here in New Zealand (and I'm not saying that's a bad thing), so I started off making up all the required mounting plates and doubler plates as per the guidelines.


Then I formed up a couple of riser sections which will eventually become part of the floorpan. The steel plate has a couple of 7/16-20 nuts welded to the backside for the seat mounting bolts, then the plate gets plug welded inside the riser.



See, there's a few hours gone already, and that's just the bit that mounts to the floor!


By the way, the T-bucket will see the light of day again sometime. It does need a big freshen up (something about cat pee and chrome) but I'm reluctant to tear it apart until this coupe is done and dusted. It really needs to be gone right through, and I have been tempted to rebuild it in an earlier style, but have copped flak from everyone I have mentioned it to, so it looks like a freshen up in its present guise is on the cards. Really amazes me how many Hambers worldwide know that little bucket from NZ!

 

Here's your pic...


Actually, your request had me worried! I haven't sat the grille in place since I put the frame back down on wheels. I figured you maybe knew something that I hadn't accounted for and that the grille was gonna' be digging a trench in my shop floor!



Everything is sitting pretty much where it should be, 'cept for the rear of the front fender, which needs the inner lip trimmed to clear the wishbone mount on the outside of the rail, then it will sit in line with the running board.

I've also been experimenting with dropping the headlights down over the mounts, mocked up here.



The 'chin' of the grille is 3 1/2 inches off the ground here, but then I realised the packers between the frame and axle are only 1 5/8, so the frame will actually come up another 3/8". Still a bit closer to Mother Earth than I would like, but I may yet rework the bottom of the grille slightly for more clearance.

It ain't easy goin' low!




Bear

 

Unreal mate, well done so far, some outstanding work you are doing.

 

Such detail, really enjoying this build, thanks for the updates, great pics.

 

Just a heads up from the FWIW Dept.: If you want that re-chromed grille
to look original, the upper corners should be painted the body color,
rather than chromed. (Very common mistake)