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Projects 36 ford custom build (MISS SCARLET)

Discussion in 'Traditional Customs' started by kippers 34, Jul 5, 2013.

  1. Outback
    Joined: Mar 4, 2005
    Posts: 2,381

    Outback
    Member
    from NE Vic

    What a great video, really nice to see the coupe out side in the sun, as has been said it sits awesome and the color is perfect, Eng sounds good too! :D

    Sent via carrier pidgeon & smoke signals with the HAMB App
     
  2. Thanks. The car in the background is my daily driver 55 Pontiac hardtop.
    Thanks tons. Glover does great videos.
     
    firepilot likes this.
  3. bobo1
    Joined: Dec 18, 2008
    Posts: 504

    bobo1
    Member
    from France

    Very nice daily driver ;) thanks for your anwers ,it's a big help for me :)
     
  4. Yesterday I started to install the running boards and front fenders. While she was on the lift at Lockharts I noticed a small run on the lower bodyline at the front of the pasanger door wich turned into a sag that ran clear back to the rear fender. I wanted to fix this before installing the running board so I got some paper and a block and started sanding. Once I sander the run and sag carefully with 320 I smoothed with 500 then 1200 and finally 2000. Once she looked smooth I polished the body line. Now she was mirror perfect I was ready to install the running board.
     
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  5. With the body smooth I could install the running boards. Then move on to the front fenders. I installed the front fender/headlight braces I could fit the fenders. I was hoping to have room to modify the radiator and fenders a little to get the radiator forward an inch or two. There is just no way to get even half an inch with out having the radiator cut completely apart and narrowing the core and the top tank. I will wait until next winter and take the front clip off and modify the radiator at that time. So the fenders, inner fenders, and supports are installed and ready for the grill shell.
     
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  6. Did Milkweed help?
     
  7. No. He's trying to get his Impala on the road for Moab next weekend. Aside from a line of visitors all day I am on my own as usual.
     
  8. telekenfun
    Joined: Mar 9, 2010
    Posts: 250

    telekenfun
    Member

    Kipp, The car is looking great! That video Glover shot was super. Even the audio was perfect. Your engine sounds like a "well oiled machine", purrs like a kitten, it's beautiful and very impressive.
    I'm sad for you regarding the fan dilemma. When I reflect back to the beautiful job you did making your own bullnose and hood mount, if you need to chop the radiator all that bullnose work will have to change to some extent as well. Hopefully, it will only amount to a few bolt holes moving. I suspect you'll also need to add forward extentions to the bottom radiator mounts as well.
    If you decide to wait until next winter to attack the radiator, will you temporarily use pusher fans in front to get it on the road this season? No one should beat you up if you have to do that to get it on the road. The prospects of the work necessary to move the radiator an inch or so forward may well take another month to accomplish all things considered. I suggest that you mount a pair 10 inchers to the front of the radiator for the season. Paint them flat black and I doubt that few will ever notice they are there. Some flat black screen-door screen on the back side of your grill will do double duty, hiding the fans and keeping the bugs out of the radiator.
    I'm anxious to see that beautiful grill treatment you created mounted to the fenders and hood, Then we can we can all see what a masterpiece you've created.
    Best regards and good luck with all your endeavors, KB.
     
  9. Stopped by Kipp's yesterday. Man, this car is S-E-X-Y... IMG_6960.JPG

    IMG_6940.JPG

    IMG_6937.JPG
     
  10. I don't recall the late Flathead being a major issue with fan clearance in the 35–36 models. Make sure you have the motor and trams. all the way back on the mounts and the radiator pressed forward utilizing the cowl adjustment rods.

    Check the Ford Barn site for good threads on this problem; and also for advice on the sequential placement of the front sheet metal pieces. This will help you with proper gaps between the pieces, especially with the hood and grille.
     
  11. Thanks KB. The fan issue sucks but for now I will move forward instead of back. I can pull the radiator next winter and have the core and tanks narrowed a little while she hibernates. The front clip is complete except the hood and the grill that is still at the chrome shop.
     
  12. Unfortunately I dident think there would be any issues with the fan so I dident worry when I dident have one at mock up. With only 1 3/8's " at the water pumps and 1" at the generator I need mare room than I can get. The motor has about 3/4" fire wall clearance so no go there. if you look at ryans pics the radiator is slightly touching the fender extension so to move forward I need to narrow the core a little but the top tank needs a little also so I think I will wait to send the radiator back to the shop to have it modify'ed.
     
  13. This morning I went out and installed the grill shell and got it lined up then I installed the headlights.
    While The tires were still off I finished installing the cotter pins in the front end then I reinstalled the tires and dropped her back on the ground. I assembled the headlights and then installed the bumper brackets and then the bumper. I rolled her out to get a good look. I wanted to be sure that the radiator was in the proper place so I installed the hood hinge and bull nose.
     
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  14. It comes along really nice Kipp.I love it .
     
  15. telekenfun
    Joined: Mar 9, 2010
    Posts: 250

    telekenfun
    Member

    DSCN4802.JPG
    Kipp, I've been conjuring with the demons all day as to what is causing your fan interference problem. I believe it started when you needed to raise you motor mounts and trans support that 2 inches to allow the front pulley to clear the raised front crossmember. Then since the radiator tilts rearward, the elevated engine caused a convergence into the fan's space. Who would have known that establishing the perfect ride stance such as you have would have such far reaching consequences like you have now. For those who have followed your outstanding build thread, we have learned much from your work and effort, what to do and what not to do. I also raised my engine up for two reasons, first to get the oil pan above the scrub line of the entire chassis if I wanted a slammed stance and secondly, as tall as 36 engine bay is I wanted the engine up where it would be better showcased. You have accomplished that as well, albeit, sometimes 2 inches can be a little and sometimes it can be a lot. The 2 inches helped the headers clear the steering box and makes your engine sit like jewel in a perfect setting. To me it's just as it should be. Have you considered going without hood sides to better display your engine? To all the builders who read your thread, watch out, if you change one thing you may well have to change Everything, I did. I'm attaching a thumbnail to show how high my engine sits and it caused a ton of problems.
    Kipp, how soon will you get the grill back and will the radiator need to come out to install it? I guess glass is next and you're close to rolling.
    Best Regards and good luck with all your endeavors, KB.
     
  16. KB moving the engibut i willne up surely dosent help the clearance issue and it prevents me from running the fan off of the generator like a stock 21 stud would. As far as as moving the entire drivetrane up in the car goes you are right I am still finding things that are affected by this some good and some bad. but that is just all part of the game we play.
    Later Kipp.
     
  17. Thanks Kenneth. So close and yet so far.
     
  18. deucetruck
    Joined: Jan 8, 2010
    Posts: 727

    deucetruck
    Member
    from Missouri

    Your car is SO cool and your attention to detail is second to none!!
     
  19. TagMan
    Joined: Dec 12, 2002
    Posts: 6,295

    TagMan
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    "Here is a requested pic of the fender to body alignment. The body line kind of emerges from under the fender. Kind of an awkward transition."

    Thanks for the pic and for remembering. Exactly what I needed to see.
    -Bob
     
  20. milkweed
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 567

    milkweed
    Member
    from SLC UT

    car IS lOOkING gooOOOOOOddddDD. OH LOOK MY CAPS BUTTON IS WORKING......hELPING kIPP WITH HIS CAR HAS MADE ME REALIZE A BUNCH OF THINGS I WANT TO CHANG ON MINE WHEN I GET TO IT...... Kipp is better left alone when aligning body panels...Sometimes help is just the opposite. Im sure when it comes to the Hood someone will help if he wants the help.......
     
  21. telekenfun
    Joined: Mar 9, 2010
    Posts: 250

    telekenfun
    Member

    Kipp, Your friend Milkweed must be some kind of character. He must be fun to have around. I'ld like to meet that guy. Maybe this August. For all the people who said they would like to help with your coupe, as I recall he was one of those there to help when it was time to SAND, that's a good friend. Here's to a productive day everyone.
    Best Regards and good luck with all your endeavors, KB.
     
  22. F-head
    Joined: Oct 20, 2007
    Posts: 1,171

    F-head
    Member

    had a 36 phaeton with an 8 ba in the stock location and no way the fan was ever gonna fit in there
    8 ba is about 1 1/2" longer than a 59 a motor because of the location of the distrubutor.i ended up with an elect fan so i eventually put an earlier motor in it with the fan on the gen like stock.
    I figured you knew something i didnt know or I would have said something sooner
    you could put earlier pumps, front cover,cam , ignition and generator mounted fan to shorten the engine up
    car looks beautiful
     
  23. Thanks.
    Hopefully that pic was helpful.
    Milkweed is correct sometimes more hands aren't more
    A character is one way to put it!
    helpful.
     
  24. Thanks for the info. Unfortunatly I dident give the fan a second thought and am paying for it. I will just deal with an electric fan for a summer and then modify the radiator this winter.
     
  25. Started to redo the seat frame so it will clear the larger trans tunnel over the overdrive. I spent an hour before work and a couple after and got quite a bit accomplished mabey another hour in the morning.
     
  26. I originally planed on spacing the seat up around an inch but with the overdrive I would have had to go almost three inches. One was probably doeabel but three wasent even in the ball park. I had to take the finished seat frame cut it up and start over. I started by cutting the center out. Then I moved the edges of the frame out two inches on each side and tacked them in place. With the edges in place I cut the center out. I dident want to cut the front or rear out until the tunnel was welded in place and braced so that the seat would hold its shape. To reinforce the rear I added a piece of four by one eighth flatbar across the rear. Then I trimmed the tunnel to size and tapering from one and a half in front to three inches in the rear. When I set it on the seat the edges needed to move out another couple inches on each side and taper wider in the rear than the front. After welding the tunnel to the frame I cut the center out of the rear then I cut the front out and then I added a half inch lip to the front of the tunnel to reinforce the front. I wanted the seat to set back a little so I added an inch and a half to the front of the seat track and then drilled new holes an inch and a half farther forward then I checked fit in the car.
     
    firepilot likes this.
  27. While I was messing with the seat I needed to make a couple mod's to the floor also. The speedo cable comes out the side of the overdrive. The tunnel came down around the overdrive to close for the cable to fit. I decided to make a wing to bridge over to the tunnel for the radius rod. I made a cardboard template. I used the template to make a sheet metal panel and welded it to the tunnel and then I formed it around the top of the tunnel. I did a little more refining of the tunnel and then I cut the piece under the wing out so I have room for the speedo cable to make the turn. With the tunnel finished I reassembled the seat frame and bolted it in place. I can mark a couple more things off my list. I will disassemble the seat frame again to re powder it before I have it upholstered.
     
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