Projects 26/27 New build by an old guy..More progress!

I've been lurking here for a couple of months now. I had a slammed '34 pickup with a flattie, flat-o-matic(mistake),and custom homebuilt frame. Sold it in 2007...thought I was done with rods at the time.
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Well, now that I have reached level 77(age), I am going to do it again. My concept this time is to only use stuff that was available in the early '50s with the exception of the transmission and possibly an electric fuel pump. I will use a flatty of course. I am going to build a z'd frame, early rear, suicide front end, wire wheels, and bomber seats. I have purchased a 26/27? tudor body from Rcky Mtn Relics which will be delivered to me at the Fall Carlisle meet. So far I am rebuilding a '46 banjo rear, have a '40 front axle, '34 wire wheels, and a doner flattie. I should find so more stuff at Carlisle but my wife has me on an average per/month budget so it could take a while. I think that if I get the body down here in Florida I can start on the frame. Welcoming any advice.....

Another of one of my older bad habits.....

 

Anyone who built a channeled 34 like that, does not need advice

An OD is pretty much needed with a flathead if it will see highway, and the electric pump is needed for priming the carbs, at the least. I just today, put on a Facet/Napa 1-4 PSI on mine so I can prime the carbs when they evaporate. It was pricey at the local Napa, but looking at what was on ebay, this one looks 100% better.
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Very cool. Keep us informed. Nice looking truck.
And now you know you're never done.
Remind your wife that you're not chasing beer and drinking hookers with your money.
Unless you're doing that, too.

 

Yes F&J I have a lead on a T5 from a 95 S-10 locally so I think I'll use that with an adapter..

 

My son John an I took a trip to Fall Carlisle, first one in 18yrs, to take delivery of a 26-27 Model T tudor from Rocky Mtn Relics. Did two days of shopping but didn't buy much. Rained a lot, hard on Saturday. Rented a U-haul and brought it back to Florida.

 

Bought this 8BA yesterday. Heard it run on a test stand. It had a 4 speed with it that I declined for a discount. But most of the rest of it is new including the clutch, water pumps, Offy intake and carbs. Later on when I get the rod rolling I'll probably repalce the heads and cam. Happy camper!

 

Nice beginning.
Look at some of the big name car guys, they live into their nineties, so not only are you never too old, but Hot Rods probably keep you going.

 

Go, man. GO!

 

I have not deserted this thread, it's just that I've been collecting parts and making drawings so I don't have much to show as physical progress yet. I am working on the rear mounting. I only want the axle ends to stick out of the body, so I am going to have to cut and replace the spring perches on the '46 rear that I am using because the stock spacing is 48 inches which is way too wide to fit under a lowered T body. With the frame I am planning, the spacing between rails will be 36 inches, so I am going to have to use about a 31 inch front spring, hung from some new weld on spring perches. I have not figured out how high to make the crossmember on the frame yet. Got to figure out how much loading (400lbs/in) and travel with the spring I'm looking at. I guess with the help of my son John, who works at Saltworks Sarasota, we'll figure it out.

Phil

 

Got some work done an ym 27T project. I set up the body to the hight it will end up and made some wheel stands to simulate the axle center heights when up on wheels. I can work from here designing a frame with the kickup I want to use. I cut out the body for rear axle clearance. Im waiting for steel tubing to arrive so I can get started on the frame. Looks like I'm going to have a rather tall dri veshaft tunnel.

 

Good stuff! Love the T Tudors. Dad a has a stocker lurking in his shop.

 

Looking good Phil!

 

Like the way this is going. Looking forward to seeing the chassis fabrication.

 

Cool build and love the use of plywood to simulate ride height up front. I can tell now this is going to be a very clean well built car. JW

 

Hey Phil, your still a kid in my book if your starting a new project. It will keep you youthful. Why's that I see in the background with the AAF insignia?

 

Nice body. You haven't mentioned a chop. I hope you don't, I like them best tall.

 

Good thread Phil, watching.

 

The AAF insignia is on the wings of a 1/3 scale P-26 Peashooter I just completed this summer too late for 12 o'clock high but maybe Top Gun.
Phil AMA609

 

Like tall T's.
Phil

 

A little more work done here. I have the basic frame laid out and tacked together with the exception of the crossmembers as I am waiting for springs to arrive. Not much room between the front rails but enough to mount a flatty (21 1/2"). The WB is not fixed in stone yet because I need to fabricate a front crossmember to mount the spring behind the axle which depends on the space between it and the pully to fit the radiator in. I lowered the body enought that I need to find a radiator short enought to maintain the line from the cowl to the top of it. I may be able to mount it above the crossmember otherwise behind it. No comments on my tie rod it's waiting for a decision as to put the replacement in front or behind the axle.

 

Took awhile to find a radiator to fit...I'm going to use a mechanical fan with shroud. I have a spring and am ready to fabricate a front crossmember which will be just behind the axle. I will need to mount the engine so that I can judge the spring travel with the engine weight on it. That will give me a measurement to use to place the spring perches at the right height on the radius rods. I am going to have to use suicide steering because there is no way I can get the tie rod to clear the spring setup.

 

Cut the original steering arms off and use deep drop bolt on arms and don't mount your spring shackle mounts too low on the split bones, you just need to work it out together. It can work. JW

 

Got a motor.....

 

Modified X member installed..... Correction...tacked in place.
Phil

 

Nice to see an X member that actually braces the chassis. JW

 

Fabricated the front crossmember....can't install it until I can figure out how far the fan extends in from of the engine so I can locate the radiator, then I can figure out where to put the crossmamber. Kind of jack leg carpentry but it's the way I work. (amateur).

 

Boughht a ^$%#^ radiator. It came with 1.6 inch inlets and outlets. Had to negotiate with the vendor to get some 1 1/4 inlets so I could modify it. My last rod had the same problem and I used big hoses on the top and it looked ugly. Lucky I have a TIG.

 

Acquired a F1 column and steering box I can use with nostalgia steering. Will have to shorten it and adapt a Model T wheel. I had to raise the engine 1" to make it work. I need to figure out how to mount it.....

 

Here is how my F-1 box is attached to the Model A frame under my T. JW

 

I followed JW's method.....