1963 Mercury / Ford Cruise O Matic Medium Case Transmission Rebuild

Correction - I was correct - on mine ONE check valve on each side.

 

Great post, helped me ID the trans I have leftover from my old hot! It's a short case 9 7/8 Cruise-o-matic. Thanks..

 

Glad the thread could help out!

 

So finally - Major Progress!

After several weeks of hard normal job work - it was time to set aside some time for the transmission rebuild. Co-worker (CW) and I decided to set aside yesterday to just get it done.

Here are a few points to remember on this rebuild. We decided not to replace every seal and every rubber as the transmission had just been rebuilt within the last year and a half or so - and if it's not broken - don't fix it - is the mantra. We did replace major seals and the like - but not all.

Points to remember in rebuilding the transmission - placement of the thrust washers is important - including the fiber washer.

Pay attention to the manuals on where things go - and photographs help. I can't stress this. The photographs I took helped - but if I'd slowed down and taken more it would have helped even more.

As it is going together we took as many as we could - but near the end the process slowed as we had made a few mistakes and had to re-do things. As it was - but the end we had the transmission together no less than four times yesterday before tearing down for some other missed reason. I can't stress - read the manuals.

The most valuble and non-intuitive information is given on page 24-E of the Lincoln Institute guide:

Carefully compress each drag spring as it is started on the innter race. After all the drag springs are started on the race, rotate the clutch to tilt the sprags. Push the clutch all the way down on the center support. Position a strong rubber band around the sprag outter end.

Now what does this mean? There's this non-intuitive part of the COM called the "One Way Clutch." This "chain" looking device is made up of a bunch of rollers, and a ratchet like chain / spring system. It allows for movement in one direction only. When the sun gear rotates in the proper direction, the "sprags" rotate in, and movement occurs. In their default state of "out" they act as a break. To get the sun gear assembly ON to the one way clutch you MUST get the sprags into their "in" position. The manual says "Strong rubber band." Unless you work in an industrial capacity and have access to truly BIG rubber bands another method must be used.


We used nylon string. CW tied a slip knot and pulled hard until the sprags were close to position. Once the sun gear was in place and the gears were engaged, I slightly twisted counter clockwise to get the sprags to align - and it dropped in place. I wish I had pics but I was covered in grease and it was 102 yesterday.

You can see the one-way clutch in pic 1-3 - its next to the main shaft - you can see it installed in the main sun-gear.

Needless to say the rest of the afternoon was spent consulting pics for the valve bodies and hoses and getting the bottom back together. We slipped the pan back on to keep it dry and called it a day.

Next steps are to put the pan on and the vacuum modulator. Also will be pulling the bell housing and torque converter next weekend as well.

See pics for the progress for the day.

1-1: Where we started
1-2: Tail shaft and bands
1-3: Drums and clutches
1-4: Testing fitment
1-5: Installed in case
1-6: Final assembly.

 

Great write up,pics and info from others 'comments'.
I believe,- I now know why my my Cruz-0 has all fwd. gears
(green dot) .But, has no reverse. (cracked case or band.)
>It shifts very good, very strong,(chirps 2nd gear just, 'no reverse'.
>>Thank you all...



http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/picture.php?pictureid=346478&albumid=4736&dl=1323137300&thumb=1

 

Rprice76,
I am very glad I came across your post here! I just torn into my '64 COM MX today for a full rebuild. I don't think mine has been out of the car since 1964, which is both good and bad. I have a couple questions for you:

How did you get the aluminum tube out of the rear pump to pull out the tail shaft? It is loose in mine, but I can't seem to pull it out. I didn't want to force it too hard and crush it. Maybe I am missing something simple here?

Do you know where I can find a repair manual for the MX? I am doing this blind (except for your posts now!). It is surprising how little information is out there on this transmission.

Thanks

 

How did you adjust the bands once everything was back together? The shop manual specifies using the special pre-set torque wrench (which I don't have) and does not seem to give any information on the actual torque value for the band adjusters.
This is all I could find regarding band adjustment; however, it was specified for the FMX, but I know they are somewhat similar so did you use the method below? The main difference between the instructions below and my shop manual is that the shop manual states to BACK OFF the front band adjuster 1 full turn after reaching the proper torque value with the wrench as opposed to TIGHTENING the front band adjuster 3/4 turn further per below. ?????

Thanks for any help/advise you can give.

*The text below is copied from another part of the internet so I cannot take credit for its accuracy or inaccuracy*

FMX Transmission
FRONT BAND ADJUSTMENT
When it is necessary to adjust the front band of the transmission, perform the following procedure:

1. Drain the transmission fluid and remove the oil pan, fluid filter screen, and clip. The same transmission fluid may be reused if it is filtered through a 100-mesh screen before being installed. Only transmission fluid in good condition should be used.
2. Clean the pan and filter screen and remove the old gasket.
3. Loosen the front servo adjusting screw locknut.

Special band adjusting wrenches are recommended to do this operation correctly and quickly.

1. Pull back the actuating rod and insert a 1/4 inch spacer bar between the adjusting screw and the servo piston stem. Tighten the adjusting screw to 10 inch lbs torque. Remove the spacer bar and tighten the adjusting screw an additional 3/4 turn. Hold the adjusting screw fast and tighten the locknut securely 20-25 ft. lbs.
2. Install the transmission fluid filter screen and clip. Install the pan with a new pan gasket.
3. Refill the transmission to the FULL mark on the dipstick. Start the engine, run for a few minutes, shift the selector lever through all positions, and place it in Park. Recheck the fluid level again and add fluid to the proper level if necessary.

REAR BAND ADJUSTMENT
The rear band of the FMX transmission may be adjusted by any of the methods given below. On most cars, the basic external band adjustment is satisfactory. The internal band adjustment procedure may be done when the external adjustment procedure cannot be done correctly. On certain cars with a console floor shift, the entire console, shift lever and linkage will have to be removed to gain access to the rear band external adjusting screw.
REAR BAND EXTERNAL ADJUSTMENT
The procedure for adjusting the rear band externally is as follows:

1. Locate the external rear band adjusting screw on the transmission case, clean all dirt from the threads, and coat the threads with light oil.

The adjusting screw is located on the upper right side of the transmission case. Access is often through a hole in the front floor to the right of center under the carpet.

1. Loosen the locknut on the rear band external adjusting screw.
2. Using the special preset torque wrench shown, tighten the adjusting screw until the handle clicks at 10 ft. lbs. If the adjusting screw is tighter than 10 ft. lbs., loosen the adjusting screw and retighten to the proper torque.

Back off the adjusting screw 11/2 turns. Hold the adjusting screw steady while tightening the locknut to the proper torque 35-40 ft. lbs. Severe damage may result if the adjusting screw is not backed off exactly 11/2 turns.

 

June of 2013, wonder if his trany ever got back together and worked again

 

Agreed. An update would be great.

 

I will bump this thread to the front of the line. I rebuilt the '64 Galaxie MX that I am using in my Ed Roth Mysterion show car clone. I had to modify it by slanting the pan since the engines are on a 20deg slant so decided to go thru the tranny as well. It looked brand new inside; clutches, bands were perfect, bushings were too. the only problem I found was this split belville spring for the rear clutch pack. I found (two) good used replacements on ebaY for a few bucks. Oh, and all the rubber parts inside were petrified so rebuild was a good idea for that reason too.

 

Thanks for the bump.

It was suggested to me to rebuild the transmission myself; however, I have never undertaken such a task so I would prefer to find someone in my area of the country who is familiar with the cruisomatics.

 

Auto trannys are actually pretty easy to rebuild. I have done a dozen or so on my career. My first was my Dual Range GM Hydramatic for my Willys when I was about 17! It would probably be better to start by rebuilding a common unit like a GM TH350. The more common ones have video DVDs that make it a cinch to get a perfect job. It is amazing how different the various eras and brands are in construction for virtually the same performance. The Hydro has the guts held in by a single saddle bracket (like a crankshaft main bearing) between two clutch packs. Most all the parts lift out the pan area. The GM Turbo ones load everything from the front. If you can stack one of those tapered donut ring, plastic, rainbow colored toys, you can rebuild a Turbo. The Ford Cruise-O-Matic trannys load most parts from the rear of the case. When you get to the parts inside, all the trannys look and work the same. Rebuild skills are identical for all.

 

I'm bumping this thread to the top because it's one of the best technical threads on the COM on the internet. Can the OP give us some updates on how the transmission worked out?

 

Would you like to share 2 speed Fordomatic schematics ? I have some troubles with my transmission, it could be very helpful.

 

about the converter. It used to be common practice to "flush" the converter after draining it. i beleive the FMX may have had 2 drain plugs 180+ apart. Back when no body knew any better.

 

Powerflite was stronger than a Powerglide and had a really stout torque converter with 2.76 to 1 multiplication. Held up pretty well with 300hp hemi too.
Turboglide and Flight pitch were operationally the same except for stator pitch control. Again, these transmissions had much better starting torque multiplication than a Powerglide. These were a mechanical/hydraulic version of today's CVTs.

The early Jetaway and Roto hydramatic transmissions were very slow shifting due to the fluid couplings having to "dump and fill", which was slow in time.

Out of all the GM automatic transmissions before the Turbohydramatic that was any good was the dual range single coupling hydramatic. And the only reason for these concoctions was that GM didn't want to pay royalties for the Simpson gearset patent.