Hot Rods 1962 Falcon 144 not running properly

Hey, didn't find another situation like mine in a search... My falcon ran fine for a year after I bought it, then one day ran like crap. I have a manual choke, and even once the car warms up, it won't stay running with the choke off or even halfway off. It sputters and eventually shuts off. I replaced the fuel pump since it first started, also the fuel filter, rebuilt the carburetor (surprisingly wasn't very dirty), replaced the cap, rotor, points, coil, and the situation hasn't changed. I pulled all the plugs, which I replaced about 1,000 miles ago, and they all looked good. My stepdad told me to spray 2+2 around the vacuum hoses, which I did, and the only place I sprayed that made the idle rise was a fitting where the fuel line goes into the carb. This is the original Holley 1909 carb. Could that really be the reason for the way it's running? It is not leaking fuel. Any help is much appreciated. Please ask any questions, as I may have left out details. Thanks!

 

Might try replacing the rubber fuel line. It could be rotted inside and pulling air. Just a thought.

 

I knew I would leave out some stuff. I also replaced all of the rubber fuel lines. I'm at a loss with this, out of ideas. Thanks for the input Jerry

 

Are you leaking vacuum at the power brake booster? That little valve is a typical leaker when they get old.

 

It doesn't have power brakes. I checked and replaced the vacuum hose for the advance attached to the distributor too. That seems fine as well, and if i suck on the hose, the base plate moves freely. Also, if I remove that vacuum line to the vacuum advance, it makes it run a little worse. Therefore, I think that is working.

 

No, but I'm willing to bet that your vacuum advance diaphragm is bad. Disconnect it from the carb and give it a good suck and I bet it won't hold any vacuum. These ignition systems on Falcon sixes have no mechanical advance, and rely completely on that diaphragm being good, so it actually would end up being two problems in one.

 

Does it run better the more throttle you give it? If so I'll bet its a vacuum leak. Get a spray bottle of water and do everything on the intake manifold, just dump it on there. Thats the safest easiest way to find a vacuum leak.

Also, have you replaced the condenser? That might be a problem also.

 

Double check the vacuum hoses to the wiper motor. If those are okay, then what Chip said.

You should consider replacing that distributor with one that is not a piece of crap, even if it is working correctly.

Otherwise, I probably have an original distributor you can swap in.

 

Unlikely to be an intake manifold leak.

It is in integral part of the cylinder head.

 

Still sounds like an issue with the carb to me...
We have a 62 Falcon in the family that my teenage daughter drives and I have experienced the same problem on days when the temperature outside is above 90 deg. but I can usually choke it into submission.
Distributor could also be your problem, but these cars have the small shaft...and as far as I know, HEI's are not produced as an upgrade. Also, you might want to post your question on www.fordsix.com to see if they have an answer for you

 

Yes, D.U.I. makes an H.E.I. unit for these, but they are pricey. You can hit E-Bay and get an old small hole Mallory and a Pertronix too. But, the stock ignition on these cars is just about 80% responsible for most poor running conditions as it is 100% vacuum operated and if the carb has been exchanged for a rebuilt, 9 times out of 10 the spark control valve is incorrect to run the ignition fully or at all. This sounds like a vacuum leak situation, and barring Gimpy's idea of the Vacuum wiper hoes being bad, the distributer vacuum canister is about it... Massive leak to when it goes bad.

 

You might also want to try another fuel pump.. some of the stuff sold over the counter at national auto parts chains are prone to failure right off the bat.

 

Well, the problem started before I changed the fuel pump, and after it was changed, it has the same exact symptoms. I think I will check the vacuum advance again. If it's not holding vacuum, does anyone know where I would be able to find a replacement? Thanks for all the tips guys

 

I would search MAC's in Lockport New York first. But honestly, what both Gimpy and are trying to say is that now would be the best time possible to upgrade to a different distributor in that car. The chances that yours was working correctly even with the original vacuum canister is only about 20% at this point in time. If you read any of the performance articles on these cars going back 1960 when they were brand new, the first thing they said was throw away the distributor, because it's junk - new! Truly one of Ford's worst production pieces, and on a Falcon, when it's not running very well the very first suspect item. Just dropping in a unit with working mechanical advance you will swear you doubled the horsepower out of this car, not to mention reliability.

 

^^^True that^^^. Can your Falcon, with a 144, cruise at 80?

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Okay, I will have to look into replacing the distributor. I never realized they were that junky.
Gimpy's- I'm lucky if it cruises at 60 without sounding like it's gonna blow up. I usually keep it below 55, don't wanna dump money into a new trans

 

Your gas line is probably plugged with crap. Pull the line off the pump and blow back through it, then pull the tank and clean it

 

....and not just the hose & line, but the gas tank may also be full of crud. It's common for old cars that have been re-started to run OK until the gasohol starts dissolving dried crap inside the tank, and starts sending it through the system. Then the carb starts plugging up. It's bad news to plumb a good carb onto a dirty tank.

Also, just one tank of crappy gas can plug things up. I'd take a look in that tank.

 

"Yes, D.U.I. makes an H.E.I. unit for these, but they are pricey. You can hit E-Bay and get an old small hole Mallory and a Pertronix too."

Need Louvers ....do you know where I can find a HEI or Mallory for a pre 64 Inline 6 , because D.U.I. (and others) only offer them for 170 cu.in. engines from mid-1965 and up. (engines with 5/16 hex shaft). The distributors they sell will not work with 144 or 170 cu.in. engines with 1/4in drive.

 

Here's an article that explains it all:
http://classicinlines.com/Loadomatic.asp

 

Check your valve guides, worn ones will act like it has a vacuum leak and idle rough.
(My 170 did the same thing)

 

Thanks for all the info guys. It's helping me narrow it down. Wish I would've asked before I replaced all the other items! Even if it is the distributor, or clogged fuel lines, or valve guides, would it still run good with perfect throttle response at higher rpm's? I've never had this problem before, and I guess you could say I'm a newbie at troubleshooting. Plus this is my first old Ford. Thanks again

 

A sudden onset of crappy running can usually be traced to some change. Crappy fuel is the most common one. Car runs OK, then you fill the tank with dirty gas. Or the gas washes rust & dirt loose in the system.

Next most common would be a loose vacuum line, other other vacuum leak. After that mechanical issues, starting with simple stuff like, "is the accelerator pump linkage lying loose because the pin fell out?" and progressing to expensive stuff like, "you broke a valve spring and bent a valve."

If it makes full power at 4000 RPM then the fuel lines aren't clogged; but an engine can wind up, yet still not make full power. It can still stumble or worse under a real load,.

And, no engine can make full power with the choke on, regardless of how rich things might be.

But if it just runs lousy at idle and low RPM then I'd start looking at a vacuum gauge and a compression gauge.

 

Call them. I have a DUI HEI on my 144.

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With the gas cap OFF.

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http://www.summitracing.com/search?...ortOrder=Ascending&keyword= DUI-39820-144BK

This is what is in my 144. It will fit your 170. It is a special order, so it takes a couple of weeks.

You should be able to order direct from DUI: DUI-39820-144BK
http://performancedistributors.com/contact/

 

I had a similar problem with an OT car. The valves needed adjustment, among other things.

 

That's another thing... I think mine is a 144 but I haven't been able to confirm that. Based on the numbers I found on the drivers door, it is a 144. What made you think it's a 170, and what are the noticeable differences? Also, $300 is a lot for me to shell out right now on a DUI distributor, but I may have to bite the bullet soon. I miss driving it

 

Did you ever try the vacuum test on the distributor?

 

No not yet, I haven't been home the past couple days. I will be checking all of the stuff you guys recommended as soon as I get time. If I do the vacuum test, and it's not holding vacuum, I will need to replace at least the advance, right? And if I'm going to do that, I might as well upgrade the entire distributor to a modern HEI