Hey gang, I recently sold my finished coupe and truck and decided it was time to get back in the garage and build something! I just dragged home this 210 this week. It has a 302 4spd with a 4:11 rear, 64 impala power seats, and pristine muffler bearings! The previous owner built the 302 from an early 60's 327 block. It wouldn't be my first choice as I like the 327 as is but it should be fun to wind it up. Initial plans are to put some front disks on it. Any recommendations?
Pristine muffler bearings? I always put a new dual reservoir master cylinder on my 55s(I ask for a drum/drum 68 chevelle at parts house) and split the lines, leaving the drums, The disc may stop a little better but I like leaving the drums and I think they stop the car pretty sufficiently if you have everything adjusted properly with all good parts. Congrats on the 55, I cant help but like the old rallies but I would loosem off that car and find something with a more mid 60s back traditional look, not only because thats whats encouraged here, but I truly think thats the way to go. I can probably come up with a few more suggestions depending on how far you plan on going with the build.
Thanks for the feedback! The wheels will probably stay until I sort through the drivetrain, etc. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Nice car, I recommend you drive it. As for the disc brake question, I have Heidt's drop spindles and S-10 rotors/calipers on my '57. They work with the 14 inch rally wheels I have on the front. 1970 Chevelle/Monte Carlo disc brakes will work on the stock spindle, but you will need to buy/fab a caliper mount. I was able to use the same wheels with this set-up as well. You can salvage yard or parts store the master cylinder and proportional valve and save some $$$$$$$ over a "kit".
I love that car! That's got a nice motor/trans combo. Some old Torque Thrusts would look great! Enjoy!!
It looks like a 150 to me, except for the dash trim. I would definetly do the disc brakes. Ol' 55 in Doylestown, PA sells a great, complete, front disc kit. It comes with everything you need and has the large rotors and calipers, hard and soft lines, nuts and bolts, master and booster, etc. All at a very good price and step by step installation instructions. I used their kit on my 56 and was very happy with it. And for you die hard American parts fanatics..... most of the components are name brand US of A stuff. Four drums on a car that size sucks. I drove mine like that for 10 yrs b4 installing the discs. I was a total putz waiting that long. The new stopping power is awesome.
I also noticed the belair trim on the dash but I figure someone just added that and deleted the 210 side spears. The vin will start with "A55" for 150.,"B55" for 210, and "C55" for belair and will have a V before that if it came out as a v8 car.
...............the belair dash trim would be easy to add, Someone could have taken the belair trim off from around the side windows,filled in the trim holes there and added the 210 beltline trim back to it but I doubt it.
True, the 150 was the baseline model and had no stainless trim around the windows, only the black rubber seals. My 150 did come with the stainless window trim and the piece along the bottom of the side windows. I removed the window stainless when I replaced the glass. And of course the 150 and 210 did not come with the dash trim. Most guys added it because it was easy to do and looked nicer than the plain painted dash.
Are you saying that your 150 came from the factory with the stainless or thats just the way it was when you bought it?
The trim code on the firewall says 1011. I think that's a 210 sedan according to a quick google search. Either way..not sure it matters for what I'm doing. It's missing the door panels, are those hard to find items? The repos seem like big $$$. I appreciate the information guys. I'll probably pull the trigger on a brake kit in the next couple days. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I love my '55 210 post chevy and my advice would be replace the Autozone foam steering wheel with a vintage wood rimmed wheel, recover the front seats in black vynl pleates or diamonds, add a vintage tach to the column or on top of the dash if you want to drill holes in it, loose the rallies ( muscle car wheels) run some narrow 15x4 cragars, TQ trusts, or slots on the front, maybe a steel wheel on the back with a pie crust and you have a ealry '60 MP racer!! If you remove the bumper then you have to run in the gas classes......oh yeah the disks are not a big deal as the drums have been stopping this car very well at 100 mph with a 375hp 355ci 4spd, 4:11 posi rear.
Yeah it sounds and looks like a 210, Your vin # should be on the driver side windshield post and it should start with B55 if it came out a 6 cyl or VB55 if it had the 265 v8. I have made my own door panels on a couple 55s
neat car, probably a 210, the 1011 style code was used for the 210 and the belair, but the 210 was the only one with stainless at the beltline below the side windows, but not above the windows. changing that trim takes effort, so it's usually a good indicator of what the car started life as. I'd fix the drums and leave them, but I can understand wanting disk brakes. I have them on my 55....with a big block, which had a blower on it most of it's life. My old truck has the same drum brakes as your car, and it stops ok., and it's heavier and has a big block in it. Aluminum wheels of some old design would look nice, but you can get them as you find them cheap/used. There are plenty of other things to keep you busy. You should be able to make some door panels. Probably will need to modify the clip design that holds the panels on, the original design was flaky and hard to repop. There are universal clips you can use, and get some heavy cardboard upholstery panel material if you want to do it sort of original, or some Lauan if you want to do it like many guys did, or some ABS if you want to do the modern approach that won't warp when it gets wet.
For years I did mostly local, 50mph driving with my car. As I progressed on repairs and reliability I ventured out further from home and onto more congested roads. I found the discs to be necessary after a couple of close calls on manual drums with NJ/NY drivers. 1/4 mile drag strip stops aren't a problem, but 70 to 0 on state highways in a panic stop is a different story. Yikes! Traffic density and driving habits of people on the roads where we all live differs from state to state. The kit I spoke of earlier was under $700 and worth every penny. Safety b4 appearance.
you definitely have to drive differently with drum brakes. If you're used to it, it's not a big deal, but if you're not, then disks are a good idea.
Great car. Mine is a near twin to yours, old black paint, & 210. I only have a 235 with duals and Americans. I put FDB on it, not because of how I drive, but because of how every one else drives. I highly recommend them. Love the drivetrain in yours. Have fun.
Thanks again for all the info. Some great ideas...guys. After thinking it through, I might upgrade the muffler bearings to billet ones...ha ha Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
When choosing a disc brake kit, pay attention to the offset, they are offered in zero offset to nearly 2" which could cause tire clearance problems.
I still have the stock drum brakes on my 55. They work very well. They were completely rebuilt, though. I did use brand new, (not rebuilt), wheel and master cylinders, all new springs, and turned brake drums. It's a good idea to use high quality US Made parts, as well. I used Wagner parts, through-out. Yeah....still have the single, non-power master cylinder, too. I've never had a problem since I finished it in 1998. If you don't have one, buy a copy of a "Factory" 1955 Chevrolet shop manual. Not a Chiltons, or Motor manual. The factory Chevrolet shop manual is easy to read, and well illustrated. It will basically show how to completely disassemble, and reassemble your 55. A factory assembly manual is a good investment, too.
Billet muffler bearings! You might want to invest in some good piston return springs and make sure to change the headlight fluid while your at it. Nice car btw I want a 55 210 so bad
I've used front disc kits from mgchevyparts on ebay. Mike Garcia offers different size front rotors , from GM stock 10 1/2" and larger. I have one of his kits on my '55 210 and very little offset with his 2" drop spindles. I had a front end shop do the install and was told the kit was the best they'd installed. Meaning easy to install and align. Total kit is around $300.
Heidt's two inch drop spindles, 14 inch rallys front, 15 inch rear. I paid around $200 for my spindles, they are $350+ now. Used S-10 rotors and calipers $50, master cylinder $40, used proportion valve $20. Hard line and hoses, ??
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