Projects 1947 Olds Aero Coupe Build Thread

We responded to the following craigslist ad and found what seemed to be a pretty nice project. We made a deal and arrangements were made to have it picked up.
1947 Oldsmobile
47 olds 2-door project new 350 with 375 HP, tilt steering, power disc brakes, needs the wiring harness finished, brakes hooked up ,has new master cylinder under frame, has 350 auto and new drive line. The running gear is all installed and it can start with the key. No interior but lots of extra parts. Newly chromed grill, hood ornament, and other newly chromed parts. I have over 8,000 invested, not including lots of time. I have all parts to finish car except the interior. The car is a roller and can start and drive but no brakes hooked up yet. Moving and nowhere to store it. Wiring harness is installed but not all connected bought from summit racing have the book.


The car was picked up by Auburn Towing and moved to Long’s Custom Metal Craft in Tacoma, WA where Russ Long will re-do the chassis properly. After inspecting the car we found there were multiple problems with the original build. The floor was patched with scab patches tack welded in place and the frame needed to be properly modified for the later running gear. The grille, front fenders and rear fenders were removed along with the body mount bolts. Russ will remove the body from the frame and we will start by rebuilding and repairing the frame and running gear.

The body was removed from the frame and set on a rolling cart so all issues with the frame could be addressed.

Russ removed the engine and transmission then stripped the frame of anything that needed repair. We have another rear end coming that is longer than the one installed before so that will also be removed. Russ decided to change the rear mounts to an Art Morrison triangulated 4 link set up so I picked that up today. We are also changing to a power steering rack so a new unit that fits an 88 Thunderbird was picked up from National Auto Parts.

 

66 or 76? My 46 is a 76 on 125" wheelbase. Love it

 

76 on the 125" wheelbase also. Your car looks great!

 

We had started the engine before pulling it out of the frame and it sounded good but since we were not sure what condition it was in we decided to tear it down and make sure everything was in top shape. What we found was a recently rebuilt 4 bolt main 350 CID block bored .030 over with a crankshaft that had been reground and polished to .010 on the mains & rod bearings. The engine must have very few hours on it as the tin coating on the bearings still looked new. We will clean it up, paint it and use new gaskets to put everything back together.

The engine was cleaned up and painted in the green color used on 1949 Oldsmobile V8 engines. We also modified a set of valve covers to look like the 1949 Olds covers. This is not designed to fool anyone but just to add a different appearance from the run of the mill small block Chevrolet engine while retaining the advantages of this great engine.



The transmission was also pulled apart to check it out and was found to have been rebuilt so it was put back together with new seals etc.

 

The old rear axle housing was removed and the replacement housing was stripped of all extra brackets and cleaned up. The frame was beefed up with steel plate formed to fit the area that the frame brackets for the 4 link system would mount to, and then the brackets were tack welded in position. A set of Strange coil-over shocks were purchased as we decided the old springs would not work properly. This was a much more expensive solution but it should be worth the extra expense as the car will ride and handle much better.

 

Photoshopped, still a work in progress. I can only wish at this stage. A lot more to do.

 

Slick, I tried to get my dad to buy one of those in Yakima 30 something years ago so we could build it for him and he passed on it because "it didn't have a front seat". That should make a nice road burner when it's done, hopefully sitting low with white walls and a nice semi custom look to it.

 

Red Olds rally wheels with Olds center caps and stainless "window" trim with wide white walls. This is jumping ahead quite a bit on the build and the blue protective coat doesn't add much but you can get the idea we have in mind.

 

Russ made a new mount and operating linkage for the master cylinder as the old placement was right under the seat and would be impossible to check the fluid level. The master cylinder is now tucked up into the frame and a steel plate mounts it between the frame rails, then he fabricated a neat linkage arrangement using bearing plates so it will last for years just like the factory would have done.

Russ made up exhaust ports for the frame and welded those in place. The center section of the X frame had been cut out for drive line clearance and was left with ragged edges so Russ made a drive line tunnel out of a piece of large tube then he welded it solidly in position. This will add a lot of strength back into the frame and it makes everything look like it should. After all this frame work is done the car will have the ride and handling of a modern car while retaining the classic art deco look of the forties.

 

No panhard bar ?

 

When using the Art Morrison triangulated 4 bar system no panhard bar is needed as the bars prevent any side to side motion. I ran this set up on my 1955 Buick when I changed to a 401 and turbo 400 and it really changed the handling to feel much better.

 

Does it use some sort of 'poly' bushing, or what ?

 

The ends of each link have a heim joint but no bushing. I thought that would be a problem but after running it on the 55 with no noise or viberation I am very pleased with it.

 

While Russ was working on the frame I pulled the rear end apart to check it out and rebuild it as needed as well as replacing all the rear brake parts.

 

Here is the rear end complete and installed in the frame.

Russ made new mounts for the steering rack as we changed it from manual to a power rack using a new unit for a 1988 Thunderbird.


The new tubular A arms were installed with QA1 coil over shocks

 

Russ had painted the suspension parts and while he was waiting for the rest he was able to finish welding the rear brackets and the steel plates used to reinforce the frame. Russ also cut off the old motor mounts as they were not located correctly or made very well. We will be using a new crossmember from Art Morrison to mount the engine.



The frame was flipped back over after it was welded solid and all the suspension was installed. Next the engine and transmission will be positioned.


The engine and transmission were installed using clamps to position everything so the body can be placed on the frame. If everything is lined up properly the mounts can be tack welded then all the running gear will come back out to fully weld the cross members and paint the frame.

To make sure we had the proper clearance for everything we installed the body and fenders.

 

After properly locating the running gear the body was removed again and mounted on a rotisserie so the floor pan could be corrected.



All of the engine accessories and frame lines were installed so the brake and fuel line mounts would be in place before powder coating the frame.



Next the frame was stripped back to the bare rails so it could be powder coated.



A few days later the frame was back and ready to be reassembled.



As the parts are being installed this time all bearings are lubed and fastners torqued to proper specifications then the cotter pins were installed.



The frame is now ready for the body to be installed once the floor pan is finished.

 

After mounting the body both doors were removed and the fender extensions were separated from the doors. This will make it easier to install the new floor pan sections that were purchased from Chevs of the 40’s. Sections of the floorpans were used to replace the rusted parts.


The lower brace was removed to finish welding the repair section.

After cleaning uo the lower brace it was welded back in position.

 

The scab patch over the right rocker was removed and a new section made up from 16 gauge steel. We tried to form this by bending the edge then tried to form the curve but the metal was too thick so we ended up forming it in 3 parts then welded it together.


The previous owner cut a large hole in the left floor to access the master cylinder he had located under the driver’s seat. Since we relocated the master cylinder that hole is not needed and a repair panel was made up and butt welded in place. The old scab patch put on the left floor area was also removed and a 3/8ths solid steel rod was formed to provide the rolled look between the floor and sill panels.

 

When the right floor pan and the extra hole was was completed we started on the left sidefloor pan and rocker area. After removing the scap patches we set up the 3/8 rod then made the patch to fit.




Next we cleaned the area and primed it with self etching primer.

Finally we used the same method that worked on the right side to form the rocker cover and welded it in place.

 

Now that the floor pan and rocker covers have been welded properly our attention turned to cleaning the bottom of the floor pan using a wire brush wheel on a grinder. After cleaning the floorpan a light coat of self-etching primer was applied.


The welded areas recieved a skim coat of body filler.


After many hours of cleaning and priming the floor pan is ready for its final coat of paint.


We wanted to return the body to the original dark blue color but wanted to use a metallic paint so Midnight Blue Poly that was used on 1966 Buicks was picked out and the bottom of the floorpan painted so it could be dropped back on the frame.

 

While we were waiting on the frame to be finished the door handles were removed and the holes plugged with small fabricated patches then ground smooth.


Next the door latch was changed to a power "Bear Claw" style latch. The window runner at the rear of the door would have made it too hard to mount the latch in the door so we elected to mount it in the rear door post area.


With a little finish welding it looks like it belongs there. We will need to use an electric switch connected to the door handle to open the door and a rod will be made up to open it manualy if needed.


Power door locks just lead to power windows so a set of universal power window kits was ordered. The rear windows roll down into a small tub area and will only roll down part way but we wanted them to be powered also. The bottom of the tubs were removed with a sawsall and the side panels were cut as needed to allow access to the mechanism. The panels were connected with strap material to prevent any rattles.

 

The steering column will be remounted with a better looking drop and the wheel will be changed to something that looks more period than this one. The dash will only need small changes to fit the new airconditoning outlets.


I love the art deco look of the gauge panel and we want to keep this appearance while updating the inner works


Since someone had already cut a large hole in the finned chrome strip along the bottom of the dash we decided to cut it out large enough to install the air conditioner outlets.


We went with 4 outlets then found some nice knobs and finished it off with trim nuts for an early Chevrolet pickup.

 

After we spread plastic sheet over the frame we dropped the body back on with new mounting isolators and new bolts.

 

It took us a year and a half to get to this point so from now on the posts will be current.

 

The rear fenders and both doors were installed today and adjusted. I also made some brackets to bolt on the door "pontoons" as they were missing. Russ thought the brackets I made were OK so that made me feel good (although he did seem surprised so must not have had much faith in my ability) I didn't tell him I made three before I got one I liked.

I forgot to take pictures today so will try to add some later.

 

Very nice build.....great workmanship....thanks for posting!

 

Hnstray - thanks for commenting! Russ is a very talented fabricator and I am trying to make my work worthy of his shop. I fall a little short sometimes but the pursuit of perfection keeps many projects from being completed so sometimes Bubba takes over (Cleatus Helps)

 

You guys are doing a great job on this build! That motor looks killer. You don't see too many of the Olds fastbacks anymore - beautiful body style, keep those pictures coming, I'll be following your progress.