I recently completed installing the side windows in my ‘41 Ford pickup build project – an activity, like many others during the build, that I thought would be straightforward and fairly quick. I am a master at underestimating such things. The first window took about an hour to install, as I struggled to get the glass attached to the regulator arms. Learning the lessons of the first session, the second window took about 10 minutes. Because I had no luck finding any “how to” information before starting the task, I thought I’d offer up my experience with hope that it might help make the job a bit easier for the next person. There may be another procedure that has worked for others and if so, please share it. This is the one that worked for me. These instructions describe the procedure for installation of new side window glass. Follow the reverse procedure for removal of old glass from door. Installation of the window felt channels preceded the window installation. Anti-rattler felts (at bottom of window opening) were mounted to the door after the glass was installed. Sorry about the lack of pictures … had all hands fully involved during the process! 1. Begin by attaching window regulator to the door and turn the regulator handle to move regulator arms to the full downward position. 2. Working from the inside face of the open door, hold new glass (with bottom metal channel attached) with both hands and rotate the window to a nearly vertical position with the front or forward end of the glass pointed downward and insert into the door. For the remaining tasks it’s very helpful to have a set of additional hands, with the helper holding the glass from the window opening while person #2 guides the bottom glass channel. 3. Maneuver the glass downward while making sure the glass does not bind. Reduce the entry angle of the glass as needed to align the glass in the felt window channels within door body. 4. Attach the spring-tensioned washer that’s attached to one of the window regulator arms (the front-facing arm is likely a bit easier to reach through the door access opening) to the same-side receiving track of the window’s bottom channel (the tracks were pre-lubed with white lithium grease). 5. Once the regulator arm/washer is attached to the window bottom channel, lower the opposite side of the glass until the window rests in a horizontal position. 6. Turn the window regulator handle to move the arms upward and with your fingers on the free or unattached regulator arm washer, feel for the point in the arc of movement where the arm and washer is nearest to the receiving track of the channel. At this position the regulator arm washer and the receiving track are likely touching, but there’s not enough movement available in the glass or regulator arms to fully engage the washer in its track. SO, HERE’S THE LITTLE MANEUVER THAT GETS EVERYTHING ENGAGED…. 7. Remove the screws holding the window regulator to the door (it won’t fall out as it’s attached to one side of the window). Now push the regulator body slightly inside the door panel until the protruding gear housing of the regulator (handle) shaft clears the panel. At that point, the regulator and the unattached arm/washer can be moved laterally (slightly) toward the receiving track of the window channel to allow attachment of the regulator arm washer. 8. Once both regulator arm washers are engaged in their respective tracks, push the regulator body back into position against the door panel and reinstall/tighten screws. Run glass up and down a few times and make any adjustments needed to obtain free movement of the window glass. A final note: Ford pickups used the same 2-arm window regulator from 1938-47. The side glass used for 40-41 models is plain glass; 42-47 models had a metal outside channel on the glass that, when rolled up, seated into the felt channels of the window opening – if desired, these side windows can be replaced with glass cut to the 40-41 size. The bottom channel for side windows is nearly identical for all models from 1938-47.
Thanks for sharing! I never stop being amazed about how little I can accomplish with 4 hours in the garage. Knowing the tricks makes all the difference in the world--the value of experience. Pete
I have a 41 ford truck I'm building that the doors are gutted and I've pieced together everything but I'm not understanding how the window channel attaches to the regulator arms Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G870A using H.A.M.B. mobile app
Great instructions, but if I remember when we did mine there is a bottom stop for the window and when you remove it the window can drop further and it makes it easy to slide the track off the arms. Tile the glass sideways and shove up the door. Reverse to install... Now I know I missed something as it was 10 years ago.
I have only one piece of side glass to install on my 40 p-up and I have been dreading it. This will hopefully push me to tackle it sooner rather than later!
I've saved this and will refer to it when I get back working on my truck later this year. I have been working on installing glass in my '65 Corvette coupe. One thing they suggest is putting some duct tape on the window about 8 inches down on the front and back side. Then loop the duct tape over and attach 8 down on the other side. This makes great handles to lower the window in. Especially if you are working alone.
Great info, thanks for sharing. So, 40-41's don't have the metal glass edge frame, but 42-47's do? Didn't know that! I have a 41(no tank under seat), yet it has the glass frames. By the serial number, it is a 41, early production, 6 cylinder. Maybe somebody switched the doors out? Another strange Ford mixed parts mongrel?
Most likely the doors were switched out. When I was about 15 (1965), my friend had a 41 pickup with the frameless glass. One Friday his dad came home with a set of 47 doors with the window frames, and no cracks in the glass. Monday those 47 doors were on the 41.
That clears up another mystery on the "Mutt" as I call it. The door hinge screws have been drilled out and the hinges tack welded to the jambs! WTF? Since the doors are rust and dent free, and line up perfectly, I'll keep them and fix the FUBAR. Thanks much for the clarification.
Do not know about the window channel kits but the glass is not that easy to install. If you are worried about your paint tape up as much as you can with painters tape and have an extra pair of hands during the install - you will need them!
HotrodA, yes, the channel kits are the same. If you look at your metal frame, the "crown" of the frame slips into the felt of the glass channel. 40-41 glass has the same overall profile as the 42-47 (including the frame). So on the former, the glass itself seats in the channel felt -- but the channels are the same.
I tried this over the weekend, it works but I think that I have found a much simpler solution. 1. Roll the regulator to the full up position, and place it inside the door, resting at the bottom. 2. Insert the glass, front facing down, rotate into the tracks, and have someone hold it from the top in the half-down position. 3. Raise the regulator up to meet the glass, and it should be easy to attach both rollers at this point, sliding the left from the middle to the left, and then the right from the middle to the right. 4. Next, simply raise the entire assembly to the top, the regulator holes should align easily, and install the screws that hold the regulator to the door. My two cents... Rich
Here's a question, when just replacing the glass with the full set up (side felt and track felt) already installed. Can I remove the regulator and pull the glass out with the glass channel at the bottom or do I need to remove the glass wiper felt. I was thinking either to unbolt the channel run (2 bolts by the latch end) or somehow getting the glass out of the channel, turning it 90 deg and coming up small end of glass first?????.
To throw a curve ball in this thread , has anybody added power windows when doing this , specifically on a 40 pickup
1oldtimer, sorry but I've been away from the forum for a few days and just now seeing your question. So, you may have already found an answer. If your still pondering the removal, however, I think you'll find it easiest to disconnect the channel from the regulator arms, rotate the glass and remove from the top side. And yes, I'd guess you'll have to remove the anit-rattler felts (maybe just one side) to get the glass channel to clear.
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