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1934 Chevy Coupe Mustang II ?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 66L-79, Oct 25, 2011.

  1. 66L-79
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    66L-79 Member

    I have bought a 1934 Chevy 5 window coupe I plan on installing a Mustang II front Sup. any suggestions on instalation. Which way is the most economical way too. ? buy just a heidts cross member or a complete set up. ? I have a original complete setup that has been cut out of a Mustang II car, I would have to buy rotors and calipers this way. I know someone here has done both ways tell me which you suggest. Also drop spindals or not I would like for the car have rake and low too. Thanks
  2. skull
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    skull Member

    pics??

    Later:cool:
  3. davidbistolas
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    davidbistolas Member

    Lots has changed with "Mustang II" since the Mustang II was in dealerships. I'd recommend a heidts full tubular, if funds allow.
  4. Mr48chev
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    Mr48chev
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    Full fendered I hope. The tube A arms would be a lot cleaner looking under that car than the stock MII control arms. Then you have to figure out how to rework the fenders to clear the upper A arms.
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  5. walter
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    walter Member

    I installed a Mustang front back in the early 80's when there was not much after market to buy. It all worked well and I put a lot of miles on with out a problem and the car is still being driven today by the new owner. With that being said I would definantly buy a kit and eliminate the lower control arm stuts as well as the shorter top control arms. The drop spindals are also a plus for lowering the front end.
    Walter
  6. Ghost28
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    Ghost28 Member

    congrats on the chevy. This is a 34 chevy 3 window standard frame. Tubular front control arms. heights crossmember. I would not go with the stock crossmember and parts.

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    Last edited: Oct 25, 2011
  7. 29moonshine
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    29moonshine Member

    jpi streetrods will sell you a fatman crossmember made for your car and heidt tubular control arms in a kit hubto hub for 1900 fits real good had no problems with installing it
  8. Kustchops
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    Portland Oregon

    Kustchops Member

    You can also try 34 ford type if you are not stuck with independent, I built this one years ago and sold it, of course the owner made it prettier.

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  9. need louvers ?
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    need louvers ?
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    If you absolutely MUST use struless lower arms, Just make sure to make a piece that puts the rear pivot in double shear. A simple bracket from the frame rail to the back of the bushing is all you need. The problem with most of the strutless conversion stuff on the market is that it doesn't account for lateral forces applied to the lower pivot under braking loads, therefore, the pivot tears out of the crossmember. Hanging out at Elpolacko's shop for the last two decades, I have repaired and witnessed repairs to lots and lots of failed crossmembers for this reason. I personally don't do strutless arms if there is any way of doing strutted arms. I certainly would NEVER let a customers car that was to be driven go out the door without a double shear bracket on a strutless arm.

    A major favor you can do for your self is look up elpolacko's past posts and find his definitive Mustang II post and commit it to memory.Lots and lots of good info on that thread stricty for the Mustang II.
  10. 66L-79
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    66L-79 Member

    It is going to be a week and half before the car gets here I will post pics then.
  11. fordcragar
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    fordcragar Member

    If you are good at fabricating, you might use the OEM cross member otherwise consider an after market cross member. I installed a couple of stock MustangII cross members in our cars back in the 1980's as well, and they are still in use today.
  12. Gambino_Kustoms
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    Gambino_Kustoms Alliance Vendor

    i can do a complete fat man hub to hub polished stainless control arms drop spindles for 1895.00 and even less for aliance guys
    still dont know why ya'd put a MII under a hot rod?
  13. need louvers ?
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    need louvers ?
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    That would be the method I would recomend. Some one else up the line mentioned that "things have changed since it was just pinto and mustang II stuff". Well, yes and no. What has changed is that many of the manufactures of crossmembers have unwittingly changed the geometery of the basic Ford unit... And not always for the better. Allot of the current market crossmembers have had the spring posistion changed to better package the unit by standing the springs up. A small change, but effects spring rate quite a bit. Changing the distance between upper and lower control arm pivots to better fit a particular frame wouldn't seem like a big deal, until you calculate the roll center... One major manufacturer doesn't build any anti - dive into it's kits. If you don't know what it is, you don't miss it on the install, but you know something isn't right when you hit the brakes.

    I know in most parts of the country you guys no longer have the possibility of just boppin' on down to the local wrecking yard to buy a complete Ford unit like I do here in Phoenix... Hell, I still see Pintos on the road here frequently! But if you can do a bit of searching to find a complete unit and install it from the stock crossmember out, it'll be more work, but better. If you need to go with a kit, I once again suggest Elpollacko's write up on Mustang II front suspension here on the H.A.M.B. Read it, and then look into what the various manufacturers are offering with a bit of education as to what you are looking for.

    One more quick thing to say. It seems to be a bit of a misnomer that for some reason original Ford Pinto Mustang II is not quite heavy enough or weaker than aftermarket stuff. B.S.! In a stock setup, the front ball joints are one size larger than the mid sized G.M. stuff commonly used in clipped cars. The stampings are of better quality than the asian made new stuff, and there isn't a parts store locally here that I can't get ball joints, bearings and bushings at. I really don't like to see these front ends widened and put under say mid fifties pickups, but for most of us with the thirties and forties cars, track width wise and construction wise, they're just about perfect.

    I know you didn't ask for this rant, but these are the opinions of someone who has worked with this stuff for the last twenty five years or so, including helping in the design of a line of crossmembers. My personal '48 Plymouth avatar has had more than 200,000 miles of adventures with a stock Ford crossmember, and dare I say, is driven way harder than most.

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