Hot Rods 1934 3 Window Ford Glass Driver

I picked up this running and driving 3 window. I bought it because I've wanted a full fendered 34 with a little heavier chop to use as a driver. In Minnesota the road salt season can be sept-may. I just can't drive any of my other classics in that stuff, let alone could I drive a steel version of this car. I don't want to put much more money in this car, but I do want it to look as traditional as possible. For me the two biggest negatives are the mustang II suspension and the fake patina. Definitely will be swapping the steering wheel. The car has a steel hood and hood sides and steel running boards. It is built on a 34 chassis and the tittle matches the frame. Anyone have ideas on the make of the body?

 

Looks like a good driver,may be a old Gibbon Body. HRP

 

Now that you say Gibbon, I remember the seller thought it was Gibbon, but I didn't realize they made one with this style chop. Looking at google images it seems it could be a Gibbon.

 

I like it. That will make you a great daily driver and you will be having a lot more fun than the other guys who are driving Hondas and SUV's to work. Personally, I wouldn't do a lot to it, maybe wheels and tires and a few very minor things.

Don

 

This was my thought exactly. I won't be doing much to it, tweak a few things.

 

what are you gonna after the first couple years when the frame rusts through?

 

Coat/spray the metal parts with fluid film and drive it. Been using it on OT daily's for years and it does work well.
http://www.fluid-film.com/

 

HUH? HRP

 

I guess if a guy wanted to really rustproof a frame and other parts, there is a cold galvanizing spray that people use on boat trailers to protect them from salt water. I have used it on a few things and the parts never rusted. Plus, I understand that if you scratch it the galvanizing "heals" itself to some degree to close up that spot.

Just a thought (if you don't mind a grey colored frame) There is also a Urethane primer, called Underwater Metal Primer and it is designed for the underwater metal gear on boats, so it is tough. I painted the underside of a Capri probably 15 years ago and the car was sold and went back to Ohio for 4 years, and was driven in Winter. My Son bought it back and the underside looks like the day I painted it.

Only be careful. I was wearing shorts only and got it all over me. I tried every solvent in the shop and nothing got it off my skin, so I was wearing grey primer for 3 weeks till it wore off.

Don

 

The frame is fully coated with por-15 and I'll take measures to prevent rust including frequent washing. Just because I'll use it doesn't mean I won't take care if it.

 

i'm just saying, rust never sleeps, you're starting with a 1934 frame it's gotta be a little thinner than when new. i live in the "salt" belt and have seen plenty of newer cars and trucks eat up with rust in just a few years.

 

Scotty,... I think your buying trouble...... As long as the frame was in basically good condition, And measures are taken to help prevent rust,.. There wont be any problem,..... I live in Michigan, And trust me,... I know rust.

Fortress,....... This is a very cool car, really cool plan,.... I envy you. And so will everybody seeing you enjoying Hot Rodding every day.

 

Looks like a cool start for a daily. Looking forward to seeing updates as you get along.

 

You gotta figure that the older the car is, the longer its been off the road as a daily driver. Logical that it sat in a field or turned into a toy for someone.

Based on these road salt usage chart its a good bet that most pre-war cars didnt ever see road salt. Everything in daily use from 68 on has seen just as much salt as anything else.


Rust belt occupant and gear head my entire life. The best I hope for is to slow the rusting process down on a daily driver.

New cars have a 5 year corrosion guarantee. Maybe they design the failure into them but if you get 7 years before rust shows up you are doing well. And that's with things getting dipped in corrosion protection.

The double wall construction of the 33-34 frame will be a breeding ground for rust to get started.

 

So you're saying snow chains, studded tires, block heater and Ziebart kinda' winter driving ?? Why not chunk a snow plow on it too. Shit guys, the dude probably owns a hose and a trusty bucket. That thing'll be fine.

Lol that salt graph is a new kind of bad ass here. I already know I am overmatched.....but that is over the top impressive. Frekn' kudos!

 

Lets not get too carried away.

 

I don't know if your trying to capture a look or era with the car but it sure is a great buy. I know a lot of serious rodders who have a standard comment "no door handles, no hinges---- its a glass car" About the only thing I'd change when you build it your way, is to hang hinges on the car. I know of a glass 32 where the guy attached 32 hinges on the door but never had to disturb the hidden hinges that were built in. Next time I see the car I'll take closer look at how they fit/work. BILL RINALDI

 

I also have a Fiberglass 34 Ford 3-Window Coupe that i picked up for less than $20K. I could not afford a steel car and this has the look I want in a package I can afford. Mostly I just drive the hell out of it.

 

SWEET!
I'm from Minnesnowda too, and I have a buddy who wants to do an old car as a year round driver. I suggested a "Street Beast" 34 3w as a base just because they seem to be 1 step up from a "kit car", so why not!??! When I suggested it, I told him to paint it up like the California kid. You have an even better start towards that look, as I think that body has what Gibbon called the "California Kid" chop!!
Where in MN are you? Metro, or outstate? If it's metro, I'll be watching for it!!

 

I will definitely considered adding original style hinges.

I am in Rochester. I considered a street beast, however I would have wanted to pay significantly less than I did for this car and most were priced much higher. I think I was pretty lucky to get this car for the price I did, given most cars I saw in this price range were not finished cars. Many half finished street beasts list for more than the price I paid for this car. My requirements were: black, full fendered and a heavier chop. I am also really happy is has manual windows. I will have to add a heater.

 

Not sure if you've seen this guy's build thread, but he's doing the same thing to his 'glass car.

 

Cant see the firewall, but Gibbon has one of the most stock looking firewalls on their bodies. Yours looks like the "California Kid" version. Gibbon has three versions of the '34 3-window. Stock, 2" chop, and the C.K. 3" chop with slanted A-pillars.

 

Cool,(pun intended) I assume your looking stretch your season into late Oct/Nov and start a little earlier Mar/Apr.....and maybe an occasional Jan thaw? I think it sounds like a good plan.

I'd put a straight column in it, re-do the seat, fresh coat of blitz black, get it sitting a little better, and drive it.

Maybe we could start a new winter ice racing series for out-date fiberglass hot rods......Now that would be fun..

 

Everybody say this with your tongue sticking out....
Ann the bess thing is you can thick you thung on the body without it thicking!

 

Thanks, the firewall looks as close to stock as you will find, another indication it is a gibbon. Gibbon made a decent body?

 

I could be wrong, but it looks more like a Downs body to me. The chop looks good, who-ever the manufacturer was/is.
Check out this thread by JustplainJ. The end result was perfect.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/my-34-3-window-coupe-build.464776/
Before

After

 

JustplainJ's build is what got me looking at glass 33-34's, his turned out awesome. It took a long time to find just the right one at the right price.

 

Just Plain J's coupe is a Rodline body out of Europe somewhere. Bitchen car!
Yes, Gibbon bodies are really good quality. They've been in the business a long time.

 

Great ride - just needs a few tweaks. New steering wheel and etc. Keep us posted...

Picked up a nice 34 frame earlier this year. Planning to build a glass three window, no fenders and etc. Collecting parts and mainly what we need is a body. Just like the "after" pic posted above by Baron.

 

I'll post some more and better pics when I get it home. Should be able to ID the body then too.