Congrats Ben... Good job! I think the rear skins need a little meat, but I know you'll handle that! Ha ha! Keep moving forward. You've accomplished a lot already!
Here is an update: front shock lower mounts made out of 3/8... And was playing around and found that the tie rod bung bolts are hitting the radius rods; hopefully this happens out of the steering range, but take a look. I don't remember if it happened before I bent the bones, but I reversed the links so that the bolts went over the pre-bent section, but it didn't change anything... Thanks for the kind words...
I didn't set mine up with the old hardware- I used tie rod ends, and may have put them on from the bottom ( nut on top) for more clearance. Also had aftermarket steering arms, which probably changed the application ( disc brakes- don't tell anyone!!) Car I have now is a "suicide" front end, so not really meaningful to this problem. You need the "traditional" crowd's advice; "Dr. Flaven to the O.R.- STAT"
I think I figured it out--- I bought those spindle stops so now I know where the lock position is; roughly. The passenger side needs to go up about a half inch- easy-> bend. Meanwhile, the driver side needs only about an eighth of an inch- it clears but rubs. I should be able to bend it up without interfering with the drag link... A lot cheaper than a drop axle! Here is my steering situation. It bolts up, but you can see the exhaust issue, and the head sticks out a half of an inch more than the block: so I need more clearance. I cannot simply drop it a little because the gap will not increase. Can someone explain to me why I cannot cut a wedge out of the column and fill it? (Keeping space open for the shaft of course)
Hey Ben, great progress bro! I saw a couple columns beveled the last couple years @ car shows/cruises. Why not, only inner shaft turning. . . .
Think I'd consider boxing the frame outward at steering box mounting flange, or maybe consider different steering box.
I think greaser is on to something, check out "Flat V8 in '31 coupe" thread started by V4F. Look at post no.8 by Elrod, he describes it well, building a mount to move the steering out some, you could do this, 1 option anyways.
Link for the search-impared: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/flat-v8-in-31-coupe.985903/#post-11104568
Thanks pat; but yes, elrod's whole setup is pretty sweet. He did note however that he wish that he did it another way after all was said and done. This tie rod is going to kill me. The weird thing is that I purposefully bent the setup at 2 inches from the seam so that none of this would happen... I didn't want to bend the arms up like planned cause I figure that some strength will be lost, and though in theory it shouldn't, I didn't want to effect the caster. Here is the problem. It is much worse on the passenger side, but I have no clue what is wrong, because technically it is the stock setup... Drivers side actually scrapes over. What do you think? EDIT: was going through the old photos, and I realized that the only reason this is an issue is that the tie rod end never made it over to the unsplit bone. Now that the bone is further out sideways at the intersection, the tie rod interferes... Still need a fix- other than a drop axle!!!
Ok, looks like we're back up. So, as I said in my text, I think a 35/26 axle would work and I have one I can lay hands on that you can try out. I'm fairly certain your A spindles will work on it just fine but I'm not sure about KP fitment. But what's important for the right now is the issue at hand. Anybody got input on this as a solution?
I stopped screwing around and bent the steering arms up a half inch each and everything now clears. Cool. So now onto pedals and master. Hole cut in cross brace for master. Brake hits clutch. Uh oh... Solution. Bend and weld in a piece of 3/8 Clears. Now I just have to find out how to mount the master and clearance cut the cross brace for the brake rod
I was going to say you should probably fab up a bracket like the aftermarket ones for X-member mount. Basically But then I took a closer look at your setup there and it looks like you've put metal where your MC would normally be. So, I'm guessing you're going to hog out a 1" or so hole behind the arm for your brake rod and weld a plate between the frame and X-member to mount your MC.
Master cylinder mount... Is the master low? Kinda. Low enough to matter? No... I cut a good sized hole in the brace, but then didn't like it, so I closed it back up, as seen. I blended it in after this photo. I also welded a flat brace in on the back cross to make sure that the shock will not flex the crossmember.
It felt really good to have the pedals done today! Take a look wheeldog; hopefully it will help you out! Made one last modification on the pedal. I used 3/8 stock and drilled my own eye in it for the brake clevis; which I bought from Napa. 3/8 24 thread, and my master is the jegs universal for drum drum. The master is meant to go on a firewall, so the rubber boot kept falling off as the labs I made came in from the side. I just made a plate to keep the boot on. Next, final product! Now onto the clutch. I bent everything out on the 38 clutch arm 2". I added 3/4 inch to the length to do so. The A clutch arm works ok, but the drilled hole for the 38 arm makes the shaft line up perfectly. Doh! Bent everything the wrong way!!! So I just bent it the right way. Stupid mistake, but now the pedals are ALL DONE!
Hot rod ready for transport: So now comes body work! My driver's door is definitely good, but here is my passenger. Tell me what you think; would cost more than 150 for necessary patch panels I think, but it is solid in spots; especially the belt area. So I am looking for a replacement i think...
You are not likely to find a good Model A Coupe door for less than $150, Ben. Not in our neck of the woods anyway. Keep an eye out, but I'd be working on a plan to fix that door you've got. I've got a brake, bead roller, and a shrinker/stretcher that should be able to turn out a piece for that from sheet. But there's some time there, and I know Howell's sells a full skin, bottom to belt line for $185. A-308BSR-BL The top rail may to be the most difficult. I'd start asking around for cut-outs from chopped cars.
Coming along, Ben!- I bet you'll be able to find a door at Fitchburg- pass. easier than driver's ( and cheaper). If you see anything pretty solid in the 150- 175 dollar range GRAB IT! Don't think about it, or it will disappear! He who hesitates........ Also, take the time to make a shopping list ( prioritized)- LOTS of model A stuff for sale. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Maynard Elks Swap April 6th EARLY ( Clyde Kelton's gang) bigger every year- vend $20. Swap in Conn. weekend after ( at one of the speedways, can't remember which one- DUH) then Fitchburg-**** Pray for sun/ no wind! Bring food and drink ( and warm clothes) THEN CANDIA!! START TALKING UP THE BLEVEN'S FARM BASH!! ( coffee??) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ APRIL IS COMING !! 4 SUNDAYS OF MODEL A MADNESS!! ================================================= AHHHHHAHAHAHA!!!!!! (sorry, long winter)
Since your brake peddle has a couple Zs in it be sure to do a panic stop test after they are bled just to be sure nothing twists. Stomp on that peddle like a deer jumped on the road in front of you.Good build,keep it up.
Yessir. I did do a miniature destruction test to test my welds via hitting it with a hammer while in the vise. That being said, I plan on doing what you said. With the brakes, it is all about the weakest link in the chain.
Hey Ben, lookin good. I followed your lead and re- configured my brake lever like you did. Much more room to swing
Looks great! I'am very impressed with how well your coming along, not to mention your age. When I was your age I was no way near what your doing right now. Keep it up and remember one day at a time.Great job!
Looks really good. I'm just wondering about body work. When I did my floor rebuilding and rust repair I had my body on my frame as a square "workbench". I had to make my body fit my frame, fix rust, and keep it square at the same time. How will you cut your body up and fix rust etc, and keep it square and fitting the frame without using this frame? Just wondering as I have only done it once.
Good that you ask. I just bought the brookville pre-fabbed floor all welded together perfectly factory square. That being said, I will lift the rear portion over the z as required. You know full well that this is my first build as well, and I am trying to figure this out as I go. I never even sat in a model A yet, so I kinda just want to get this show on the road. Furthermore, it killed me every time to go outside and see flash rust everywhere. I figure that the paint will keep that to a minimum. So, may it need to be touched up and recoated? Probably, but it sure does look nice in the meantime.
Little update; been slow going. I bought the brookville floor off of ammuscle on eBay. Now all my pennies are gone. Taking his time to ship it, but hopefully he will ship it Monday. Would be two weeks since pay. :/ Here is what I painted. I laid a bunch of stuff on the ground, which I realized was a bad idea, so a lot of paint will be stripped on certain parts. Paint pooled on the front axle, but that will be an easy strip-it disc job. I just did the miracle paint so far. Next weekend is chassis black time. I am also getting started on my cowl. I disassembled it a long time ago, and there was just enough left to locate the patch. I just overlapped the new panel with the indentions on the old, sharpie'd a line, and cut it with my angle grinder and a worn down disc. I am waiting for a deep throat locking plier in the mail currently as well. That will allow me to weld them in, and cut out more rot once they are in. Furthermore, I have located some pics of what I want my car to look like in the end. I am keeping the splash aprons, and thinking full hood. If I can't make it work, at least hood top. 28/29 grille. Anyone ever lengthen one? I was thinking about it. Anyways, I like this paint...
Before you weld those patch panels in measure the bottom body lines and compare it with original body lines on the bottom of your or someones car. All the patch panels I bought were about 1/4 inch wider than original stuff from top to bottom. I was told they were made oversize to slip over original panels for a quick fix in the old days. I had some work to do to narrow them up.
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