Should be getting a call to pick up the block today- will post pics when I get it back. Didn't get a thing done over the weekend... oldest son's birthday, county-wide beginning band masterclass (imagine 30-50 of each instrument in classrooms, playing their instruments for the first time- I lucked out and had 8 French Horns )! Going to try to get a few things moving this week to catch up. Herb- thank you again for the valve info- and I owe you some Jimmy Johns this time! Since I'm not going to punch the block out to 3.75", I may just use a '28 head... planning on doing the '25 block with the 3 port and possibly a B crank this summer With that said, I need to find replacement valves for the '28 head... any suggestions for a modern replacement?
Bill - I used ford cleveland valves about 20 years ago when I did up a 28 head. Just had to spark erode slots for spring retainer pins. New ones probably available from filling station now. Kume
Kume, I agree with Mac--although I don't know that I would trust old wood wheels on a speedster. Herb
JCILLCH, That's fantastic! If that is your 490, could you take some pics of how the radiator shell is held onto the radiator?
If they are re-wooded correctly with the right stuff (American Hickory, not Oak ) they ought to be plenty strong and flexible.
I thought that the wood spokes were used in 20s truck instead of disc wheels particularly because they were considered stronger. Of course, if the spokes are damaged somehow, then it is another story.
The shell is held to the radiator by the clips Thea hold the wiring loom. There are four of them around the shell. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
The sexiest butt ever well maybe the second The car has been past down through my family. My great grandfather, grandfather,and father all spent time behind the wheel. I take it out every few months for a spin. Some day my son will have it in his possession. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
That's awesome that it has stayed in your family, and thank you for the pic- that helps alot! Looks like I'm missing all of those clips and whatever is used to hold the radiator to the cross member... yeehaw
I read an OLD article explaining how wood wheels were better then the new Budd Wheels. So it had to have been written about 1922 or '23. It claimed that wood wheels were putting down force on the TOP of the wheels bearings resulting in a soft ride. Steel wheels were carrying the weight on the bottom of the bearing causing a rougher ride. Think about that for a while.
Doug- Please 'splain how ANY wheel can have the weight of the car on the top of the bearing. My feeble ole mind just can't grasp that there idear. Think of the hub of the wheel being larger than the spindle, with lots of space in between. Where is the spindle going to sit in the hub hole? How does wheel material affect this? Gotta go now, time to put the mule in the barn. Herb
I thought that would make you think!! You just don't understand. The spokes hold up the top part of the rim, so it has to be a better ride. I wish I could find where I read this. BUT they were serious in their explanation.
I can understand a wooden wheel taking the load of the car on the bottom of the wheel with its spokes in compression as opposed to a steel wire wheel with its spokes in tension passing the load to the top of the rim. For the life of me I can't see how a different wheel could make a difference to the bearing, it hasn't changed. I think bearing and wheel rim might be getting mixed up here? Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Like I said, I wish I could find the article again. I see no difference in wheel construction. All the weight is on the bottom of the bearing. VW Rabbits that had soft rear spindles always wore the bottom of the spindle not the top. When tires go flat the bottom against the road squishes not the top.
If the weight was on the top of the bearing you wouldn't need a jack if you had a flat. Maybe they were talking about Chitty-Chitty-Bang-Bang while it was flying and the wheels were just hanging on the axles.
Actually, I have read several old articles that said that wires rode better because of their ''springy'' nature. If the spokes are loose enough to be springy, I would think you were in deep do-do wheel wise. Probably all this sort of thing was written by people trying to sell their type of wheels. Now let me tell you about a new revolutionary type of wheel that makes sitting in a car as smooth as a feather bed. The Herb Square Wheel (pat. pend.) will soon be on your neighbors car. You don't want him to be the first in your area, do you? Dealerships still available in some selected areas--but don't linger--they are going fast! Herb
You two need a hobby Well, the shop didn't hot tank the block because they "didn't want to mess up the babbitt"... so I explained that I had taken the babbitt out... "You can DO that?" "I have a 235 and IT has babbitt"... So I explained how F**d owners aren't as lucky as us Chevy guys because we have babbitt inserts, etc- Needless to say, the guy was apologetic and went right to it, and I'll be able to pick it up this week Brad54 came with, and was picking up some Helicoil inserts for a head he's working on and I figured I'd ask about 3 11/16"/ 3/32" rings, and the kid behind the desk had no idea how to look them up... Any ideas on a part number/brand to use for the rings, AND do I need to order freeze plugs from Filling Station/etc, or can I find them locally? Thanks again! Bill
I experimented with a square design several years ago and the ride is extremely smooth when parked and when above 120 mph, in between not so much.
Hobby, how about Messy with the yankee rebel? A good parts store should be able to get freeze plugs by dimension. My local Fisher's makes me take a box of ten, cost about $.60 each.
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