*#* 1243 is the order for the Dec 2013 Banger Meet*#*

Here is the banger link list .


For the HAMB banger newbies, here are some links to a lot of banger info:

Flat Ernie maintains the monthly link list. Every month is listed:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=161498



Banger basics. another info link list:

http://www.fordgarage.com/

http://www.plucks329s.org/index.htm

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=251717

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=42480

Post #105 of link below shows flywheel lightening dimensions
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=470853&page=6

Model B rod bearing insert numbers
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6992484#post6992484


Engine tuning with a Vacuum gauge
http://www.centuryperformance.com/tuning-with-a-vacuum-gauge-spg-148.html

Adjusting dual Strombergs:
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=6638461#post6638461

Helpful Model A tools and tips:

http://www.maurer-markus.ch/ford_a/tipps.index.en.html

Gary in MN's late model Malory distributor conversion for A/B engine:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showpost.php?p=9147025&postcount=109

Elrod's stuck head tech:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=218487

Model A generator to alternator conversion:

http://ejwhitneyco.com/automotive.html

Gear ratio / speed and RPM calculator:

http://www.accuautoparts.com/calculator.php


Model A master cylinder mounting bracket ideas:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...73#post4953173

Go here to read the 1931 edition of Harry Ricardo's book "The High Speed Internal Combustion Engine"

http://www.scribd.com/full/40610101?access_key=key-w2bcjicdancrnxypd05


Chevy Banger Stuff

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=463465

http://www.scribd.com/doc/22469332/The-High-Speed-Internal-Combustion-Engine-Ricardo-1931

Post 198 starts a great discussion of the shape of a flat head combustion chamber

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=470853&page=10

Maybe these links should be posted early in each months meeting.

If anyone knows of more, please post them.

 

Thanks for the link Craz, I've found happiness.....

Checked it out lately?

 

Ready for this next week end:

 

No, hadn't been there in awhile!!!!!!

See you later!!!!!

.

 

damm
december already

for those of you who run el mirage, may is coming fast.

j


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Has anyone here had any experience using the Dick Spadaro/Winters early ford quick change behind a banger/T-5 combination? The one without the straddle mount pinion support? I assume they are the same thing since Spararo advertises it as using Winters components and it looks identical to the one in the Winters catalog. I know Winters makes a very stout V8 QC but it uses splined axles and late model outer bearings but they also advertise one that is much like a model A QC built for the V-8.

 

Here is Pop's truck at the 4 Ever 4 hill climb last month:







We had some carb issues at first, but this is the only video I got before my camera battery took a dump!!!!!

 

Any quick change without the pinion support isn't worth the money in my book.

I bought my QC from these guys:

http://www.hotrodworks.com/catalog/index.php/quick-changes-related-components.html

I sent them my '37 axle assembly, and they sent me it back with the "Rodsville" center section. Love the rear end behind my T-5.


.
.

 

I happen to have run an A Halibrand sprint Quick Change that I bought as a basket case. I think if you would take in all of the 2 nd gear hillclimb starts you could say it worked rather well warts an all ! I did install a snubber early on. Didn't do half bad in the 1/4 either. When Jay drove it at the hillclimb he would wind it up and just slip his foot off the pedal. 2nd gear burnouts. They ran the A Halibrand under midgets and sprints on the asphalt. The difference being the midget uses 1" pick offs while the sprint uses the wider V8 gears. You might be interested what rear end is under Art Chrisman's number 25

 

I am considering running a B motor I have. When my dad was a teenager he would by model A motors people would take out of cars to swap for V8s. He ended up with 8 or 9 motors and had one B motor. It has been sitting in the garage for more than 50 years. I pulled the head and all the cylinder bores look great with no ridge at the top. the motor turns over easily by hand and I have no stuck valves. The bottom end looks good also. Unfortunately it is not a counterbalanced crank. Anyway I haven't pulled any of the main caps or rod caps to check the clearances. What are the clearance tolerances on these bearings and what do I torque them to when I check with plastigauge? I will also check to see if any shims are left in the motor to see if there is any wear left in it. Also I understand that the B blocks tend to crack and I was wondering where to look for the cracks? I hope to see if I can run this motor until I am able to afford a rebuild. Thanks in advance.


John

 

Bill,
The question asked was about buying a new quick change. From my experience a new QC for a V-8 rear end the cost is almost the same for the units with the pinion support vs. the one with out the support.

If you, or anyone found a QC rear at a swap meet for considerably less then building a new one, then it is a good deal.

I still wouldn't build a new unit with out the pinion support.

.

 

I spent some time on the phone today and probably answered my own question. The rep from Winters says they use that very same ring and pinion in 500hp race cars with no pinion support and in my installation the weakest link is going to be either the differential or the axles not the unsupported pinion. They referred me to Dick Spadaro as the exclusive dealer.

Dick Spadaro sells the center section kit with the thru shaft installed, a new 4:11 ring and pinion (pinion installed), one set of spur gears, rear cover, open drive, one carrier bearing,all gaskets and hardware for $1395 plus shipping. You supply the differential, spider gears, axles.

Now, Rodsville makes a very nice Halibrand type center section, open drive line. It includes the machined center section and rear cover with the thru shaft installed. Cost is $1695 plus shipping. You supply the ring and pinion, pinion bearings, spur gears, gaskets, hardware, etc. probably another $800 or $100 for the spur gears if you have good donor Ford parts.

Both are out of stock, and neither will be available until after the first of the year.

 

I'm here

 

Ha, here could be anywhere, from the Eastern Bloc to Hollywood!

 

Have you guys seen the bang bang bang bang thread on the main board great unmolestered tee racers and engines

 

Now this may be old news to some of you, but I found it interesting. Neighbor asked if I could get his lawnmower running. Brought it to the shop, and the (Chinese) engine spun with no compression. Took it apart and found that one of the rod bolts had come unscrewed, cap came loose, and rod broke.

But the interesting thing was the cam-



It's plastic! Had steel tappets.

How long before we can get someone to squirt out some banger performance cams?

Herb K.

 

Very interesting - from the picture it appears the lobes are separate pieces from the shaft - and have a split in them as well - can you tell how they are secured? I assume the plastic is pretty hard - would you say on the order of ABS pipe or more like Lexan?

 

Relating to the plastic lobes on the cam shaft; I have many parts reproduced for other applications used in rebuilding electric wiper motors for older cars.
One of the best things is 6/6 nylon and the wear issues are removed with the addition of "glass" or glass filled nylon - sort of like adding stone to your portland mix when getting a new sidewalk or even a garage floor. They can add a steel core, steel bushings & bearings, spring shoulders and even Helicoils into the mold when setting it up.... Could even suggest the use of a DOM center tube and cast the nylon around it for the shape of the lobes & distributor drive gears????? Just a suggestion - food for thought!

 

I don't know how they do it. but hell they are making guns out of plastic and ink jet printers.

 

Here is a pic of TJ and Me going at it on the beach. Two WAC Customs intakes head to head.


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The cam Herb showed which has the plastic lobes got me wondering if you took a worn out cam, ground it down to round, used a 3D printer to create lobe profiles of nylon or polycarbonate, and if it was possible to securely attach them to a cam core it would be easier and quicker to try out different cam profiles on a dyno (or a dry lake) than you could with a conventional cam. I doubt that they would have much longevity but once you found a profile and duration which fit your use, then you could have a metal one ground. It seems that finding suitable cores is a real problem and experimenting with billet cams is pricey. If 3D printing technology is ready this could save a lot of $$$.

 

Your intakes are cool, even after you'd send to Germany?

Majo

 

I,m putting together B motor, it needs new valves. I'm wondering if it's worth it to go oversized intakes. What do you guys think?

 

Only if you want to make more power.


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Just a little plug for Dick Sparado. I bought one of his quick change units 8 years ago and run it in my Model A ( 41 ford rear axle) with a killer 322 GMC in line and four speed . Have beat it to death for all this time and havent had oner single issue.....
Dick is a real car guy!!!! No gold chains and doesnt ever wear tennis shoes !!!

 

IMHO, the seats are more important. If no seats, by all means add them and go larger. The seat condition dictates the height of the valve out of the block in open position. It really depends on your intended usage, if BIG cam, multi carb and higher comp head the larger valves will make more of a difference.

I did an "A" for a friend, 1.56 valves with seats and mild cam. In OD it pulls 65 on fwy with plenty of passing power left. This was more of touring motor.

Don't forget about guides either, solid one piece are available also.

J

 

I ordered a unit from Dick. Hope to get it in January.

 

How much does the Kiwi quick change cost now? I have one under my RPU but don't know current price. One drawback is the slider box.

 

Any one have ideas/photos of fuel line set ups for dual 81's on a B motor? Most of the prefab hard lines I see are for dual setups on a V-8 or on an A. Looking for a clean setup to get to the stock fuel pump. Was originally thinking of Banjos and soft tubing. Been reading a lot of issues with soft tubing not lasting.

 

Here is mine.