I was wonder if I would have to use a hardener while using one shot enamel for pinstriping, because I was planning to clear coat over the pinstriping. Thanks No brains, no headaches -Ed Roth
You do not need a hardener with One Shot. It would take many coats of clear coat over One Shot not to feel an edge. I am not saying it can't be done but it would be a real job to build it up to the level. Jimbo
Risky business. I mix 50/50 hardener/reducer of your clearcoat brand with 1shot reducer and pallet in your 1 shot as you stripe. Try it without and see what happens!
i clear over 1 shot on motorcycle parts all the time, just 1 word of advice, make sure you just dust your first coat of clear and let it set up for a few minutes before you put your light second coat on it. 3rd coat can be a little wetter if you see no seperation (almost looks like fisheye) around the stripes. then have at it from there. again, do not put your first coat on wet, you'll see shit you never seen before, ask me how i know!!
This is the correct way.....^^^ I've been clearing over 1-shot for years without using a hardener with no trouble at all as long as autobodyed's advise is followed. The only thing I would add is to let the 1-shot dry (gas out) for as long as you can reasonably wait before clearing...I wait a day or two. As far as eliminating the edge... I spray the typical 3-4 coats of clear, color sand and polish and the edge is completely gone.
Thanks I think that's the way I'm going to do it, It would be the easiest way for me to get it done. Thanks for the tips! No brains, no headaches -Ed Roth
What Rich Wright and Autobodyed said. I've been using various types of hardners for yrs, but mostly what the shop is using in the clear with instructions to dust first coats. There were times when some of it did wrinkle or spread. Since most of the shops I stripe for have a 24 hour window I always make sure to put few drops hardner in the 1 shot. And I always use it when striping any vehicle.
I like to play it safe and use the hardener. Haven't had any bad experiences, except when hardener WASN'T used. Use the SAME hardener that you will use in the clearcoat, whatever type/brand it is. Of course you could also use a pinstriping paint that will not wrinkle under clear...House of Kolor makes one. With theirs, you use a hardener if you don't clear over it, or use it without hardener, under the clear. I like this method if there's a lot of striping to be done under the clear.
I would also concur that using the hardener that will be used in the clear mixed in with the 1-Shot as you palette. A couple of observations I've noted: If you are working over a base coat it is advisable to put a clear barrier coat on before you lay down the stripes. This works well in case you have to make a ," line correction" (otherwise known as a F**kup) because the base coat is usually pretty fragile and doesn't take kindly to wipeoffs. DO NOT use a flattening agent in the clear as I have experienced stripes lifting when this stuff was used.The painter had cleared over my stripes many times and had never experienced lifting until he used this stuff. I try and keep the window to between 24 and 48 hours;any longer than that and the stripes become a bit too dry and will wrinkle. I have tried using HoK striping paint with very little luck. It is 2-3 times more expensive than 1-Shot;it's shelf life once opened is terrible;and coverage is sub par to me anyway.It also requires using a synthetic hair striping brush because the solvents in the paint are very aggressive to natural hair brushes.Just my opinion folks.
Yeah I've never used HOK paint I only use 1-shot paint and mack brushes, I'm just clearing it so it last longer and is protected. Thanks for the input appreciate it! No brains, no headaches -Ed Roth
Of all you guys who have shared your use of hardner with One-shot , autobodyed 's tecnique is probably best.The speed of the hardner makes a difference as well. I use medium hardner almost year round unless its extremely hot or cold outside. Seems that some colors of One -shot are more tolerant, (not going to get into that),i dont push it, re-do's suck. I let the first light coat dry all day, then you can generally lay into it from there.
I've been using epoxy hardner for a few years because I had 2 qts left over from some heavy equipment painting. It works good for striping daily drivers. Since I'm cheap, if I buy hardner, I use brands like dimension, acme or whatever. No need to go the high road if cheapo works and since I've been at it nearly 40 yrs I know what works for me. Since I don't stripe hundreds of cars a month like I use to, even a small can dries up on me so end up I tossing it. Remember this about pinstriping...don't over think this stuff otherwise you end up with 100 brushes you will never use, too much useless knowledge and no idea where to go. I use only 2 - double 0 mack brushes and a couple of small lettering brushes just in case I'm in the mood to do a name or something ugly. I keep it all in a 30 dollar Home Depot tool box with brushes in veggie cooking oil.
If i know it is going to be cleared, I always use 1-Shot hardener. I have had too many jobs where the 1-Shot lifted under the clear especially when someone else cleared it, that is even telling them to dust on the first two coats. Why take a chance, if it lifts you have a real mess on your hands. Before 1-Shot came out with their hardener I used the same hardener that will be put in the clear.
Hey, Those who say that the addition of hardner to One Shot to be overcleared isn't necessary have never had to restripe a three to five colour job, and the base, when the whole number lifted after the clear Safari made a great point bout clearing the base BEFORE you stripe the job........ if ya botch the stripe, or the client gets stupid and wants a colour change, or the last clear shot goes broken arrow on you, at least you've saved the base " Humpty dumpty was pushed "
I would only add that I have a can of 1-Shot catalyst that I've used a couple times and it is still in good shape. I was worried about it going bad after being opened and I called a friend who worked for them at the time(Frank Manning).He told me the best way to preserve the life of the catalyst after it had been opened was to keep it in the refrigerator at about 40 degrees F.One caveat thouwhen you pour some out to use let it get up to room temperature before using. I don't like using it on jobs that won't be clear coated because I feel that it makes the paint too brittle and affects the adhesion to the base coat.Just my opinion.
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