An inclined plane joined helically around a cylinder to exert an extracting force upo

While attempting to install my axle into the rear end housing, I encountered a sticky (pun intended) situation. As the bearing was being seated in to the carrier housing, it stopped. I couldn't lift it out and it wouldn't go in any further, sound familiar? Here is how I solved my dilemma by making this simple little tool. The first photo shows the situation I was faced with.

There is only about 2.5 inches between the carrier housing and the axle flange. After sleeping on it over night, I had an epiphany (that's an idea that comes with a bright light). I could pull the axle back out by pushing from behind the flange. I gathered up the necessary supplies and made this versatile little device.

Three pieces of 1/2 inch plumbing pipe, 1.00" long, three 1.5" diameter washers with a .50" diameter hole drilled in the center. Three 7/16 - 20 x 1.25 bolts and nuts. Make sure to dress the ends of the pipe after cutting to length so you will have a smooth even parallel surface at each end. Screw the nut onto the bolt about half way then place the washer on the bolt and insert the assembly into the length of pipe.

Begin tightening the nut until the head of the bolt touches the surface of the flange.


Tighten each nut slowly and equally around their circular layout and the bearing (or whatever you may be trying to extract) comes out easily.

 

I see you are doing a HRW conversion.

 

True, what a great set up.

 

Did the exact same thing to take the front bearing out of my OT Ford Explorer. Works like a charm. I had the same epiphany, also with the light bulb. Mine came with an "AH-HAH!!" though. LOL

Andy

 

But why did the bearing hang up in the first place? I have that set up and I was very impressed with how it all went together.

Pete

 

Simple ideas are the best ideas. Cool.

 

It hung up because the carrier housing needed a few thousands of material removed so the bearing would slide in.

 

Up for the weekend.

 

I had a similar problem while trying to put a rear wheel assembly back on a keyed shaft on my lawn tractor.Doing my Mickey the Dunce routine I tried to slide the assembly on with the key in the groove and jammed it so tightly it wouldn't budge.I couldn't get behind it to swing at it and there was nothing to grip the outside.
I wound up deflating the tire until it broke the bead and then attached an old drum puller;hooking it to the edge of the rim.Worked like a charm.

 

Way back in the 70's I used to occasionally share one of those roughly rolled tobacco things with friends. We always came up with strange ideas while under the infuence, and referred to those ideas as "epuffanies".

 

Sometimes the simplest things are the best.

Scotty

 

The HRW conversion to open drive and later axles is well made and fairly simple to assemble. I had them do the machine work on the axle housings and the backlash on the gears. It's not exactly an inexpensive modification by the time you get the Q/C, axles, open drive, machine work and new Lincoln brakes but it sure is going to be a nice feature peeking out of the back of my '40 pickup.

 

sheldon---right?????

 

Used this as inspiration to remove the a rear hubs from the wheel bearings of my OT E30. Thanks for the help!

 

I have done this using cheap sockets instead of pipe or thrust bearings.
See below for a technical explanation

Screw thread mechanics




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There are always three major components in practical applications of the screw thread mechanism :

• the screw - a generic name applied to a setscrew, leadscrew, bolt, stud or other component equipped with an external thread,
• the nut - refers to any component whose internal thread engages the screw, such as the nut of a nut & bolt or a large stationary casting with a tapped hole into which a stud is screwed, and
• the thrust bearing - that is the contact surface between two components which rotate with respect to one another. Examples of thrust bearings include :
  1. the under-surface of a screw head which is being tightened by a spanner;
  2. the spherical seating of a G-clamp screw in the stationary self-aligning anvil.

A nut can spin and move freely along a screw without contacting another component, ie. without the need for any thrust bearing, but a thrust bearing comes into existence immediately contact occurs and the mechanism is put to practical use.

Clearly there is relative motion in the thrust bearing, and also between the nut and the screw - and where there is relative motion there is friction. We now examine the role of friction since it dominates the behaviour of the mechanism unless special ( read 'expensive' ) means are taken to minimise its effects. When considering friction it doesn't matter which component rotates and which is stationary - it's the relative motion which is important. We shall therefore analyse the jack shown here to deduce the general effect of friction on screw thread behaviour.
The jack's screw is fixed; the nut is rotated by a spanner and translates vertically. The thrust collar's only motion is vertical translation as it is prevented from rotating by contact with the load, one corner only of which is pictured. Since there is relative rotation between contacting nut and collar, the contacting surface assumes the role of thrust bearing.

The nut shown here in plan is in contact with three bodies :

• the spanner exerts the torque T which tends to raise the load ( analogous to tightening a nut and bolt )
• the screw thread which exerts the frictional torque T<SUB>t </SUB>, and
• the thrust bearing which exerts the frictional torque T<SUB>b </SUB>.

We are interested in the tightening torque T, and, if the nut is in equilibrium then
( i) T = T<SUB>t</SUB> + T<SUB>b </SUB>
from which we can evaluate T once T<SUB>t</SUB> and T<SUB>b</SUB> are found individually.

Consider the thrust bearing first. We shall assume that the contact surface of area A is in the form of a narrow annulus of mean radius r<SUB>b </SUB>on which the uniform pressure is W/A, where W is the load supported by the mechanism. If the coefficient of friction in the bearing is &#956;<SUB>b</SUB> then the torque exerted by the frictional force on an area element &#948;A is &#948;T<SUB>b</SUB> = &#956;<SUB>b </SUB>&#948;N r<SUB>b</SUB> = &#956;<SUB>b </SUB>r<SUB>b </SUB>( W/A ) &#948;A. Integrating over all the contact area
( ii) T<SUB>b</SUB> = W &#956;<SUB>b </SUB>r<SUB>b</SUB>
Consider now the thread which is square, of mean radius r<SUB>m</SUB> and lead angle &#955;. The nut engages the screw with friction coefficient &#956; corresponding to a friction angle &#966; = arctan &#956;. The static and kinetic coefficients of friction are taken to be essentially equal for this preliminary analysis. We wish to find the torque T<SUB>t</SUB> which must be exerted on the nut to offset thread friction and maintain the load W in equilibrium - that is either static or moving at constant speed. A torque which tends to raise the load is reckoned positive; a negative torque is one which tends to lower the load.

 

smart, i dont know if i would have come up with that...

 

Yep. Very nice thing indeed. I guarantee yours was cheaper than mine. Add to your cost shipping to Australia, sourcing a local machinist to machine the early axle bells (3 - 4 times what HRW charge) and then the waiting. All because I wanted to run '40 brakes. The new Winters tapered housing set up as a complete drum to drum unit would have been significantly cheaper. No regrets though.