The motor{sbc} & tranny for project 'Ole Man' finally made it to the garage & what was supposed to a Turbo 400 turn out to be a 700R damn! well any way i have no freaken idea whats~what when it comes to these things..... I read & googled,searched every bloody thread about these trans. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=653004 It came from a 1988 Chevy 1/2 ton burben with 86,780 miles (real milage) serviced every 4000 miles. there's some #'s on the right side pad by the top of the pan. CGF 162791 So what do i have?
It is an early 700 with the bad pump unless it's been changed . I would not use it. Can't beat a TH 350 or a TH 400 for reliability and abunch cheaper to O/H.
Respectfully disagree with it not being a good trans. They are pricey to have rebuilt. must have the throttle valve cable set up correctly.
The cable is still hooked the carb,the guy i bought it from cut engine harness & unbolted the rest, it's going in a roughly 3100lbs vehicle.
MD8 is the good case, and 87 up have the good valve body. Run it and love it, just make sure to set up the TV valve correctly and I would hook up a 4th gear only lockup for the converter. This lockup kit is easy to hook up and works great. Lots of info on the bowtie overdrives sight as far as setting up the TV cable, pressure test readings, etc. http://www.bowtieoverdrives.com/catalog/catalog_inc/viewitem.php?ITEMID=336
I also respectfully disagree. Its a good transmission. By 1988-89 GM had worked out most of the problems of the early units. Most of the issues that people hear about with 700R4's (4L60), are because people with little knowledge of how they work have not hooked up the TV (throttle valve) cable or have it improperly adjusted. It is NOT a kick down cable as a TH350 has. It controls throttle pressure. Second biggest mistake is not hooking up the lock up solenoid harness. THAT is a must or it will fail, especially on the highway. A stock unit can handle 350-375 HP easily. The benefits of the lower first (3.06) and overdrive (.72) if I remember correctly, make it an excellent choice for a driven hot rod or any vehicle without overdrive. Gas prices are increasing >>> use it>> My 2 cents
It's a fine transmission, and unless you're really putting some big horsepower through it it should be OK in stock form. What are you running for an engine?
It is a 700R and is perfectly serviceable BUT you do have to hook up the TV and the torque converter lock up they are designed for it to lock and will overheat if not. Add an auxiliary trans cooler and run it, that and $3 will get you a cup of coffee at "bucks
Run it - to me it like when the Turbo 350 came out and you replaced the Power Glide car was now fun. Now go from 3 to 4 gears and can drive anywhere and still do burn outs whats not to like. Now we are all looking for 6L80E 6speed autos
. solenoid Harness? the only wires i see are on the left side of the case. picture #2 The Engine is a bone stocker (305) W/4barrel Already in the plans,All this engine & trans will do is be a daily driver,i'm thinking of a rear gear ratio of 3:08-3:50?
for best results make sure you have this thing running around 2-2200, at highway speed cruising, it will save overdrive
Hi all: I have a GM (with Goodguys sticker) 700 R 4 from 1994 350 4 X 4 with 22,000 km on it. What, realistically, do any of you fine guys figure this is worth? Thanks for your time, Wayne.
Damn! i'm more comfused than when i started! (this happens when i read too much!) http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/chevy-th-700r4-transmission-44407.html http://www.smokemup.com/tech/700r4.php http://700r4.com/tech/tcc/relay_install/diagram.shtml plus about 500000000 other hits on google! Geeza all i wanted was an good driving vehicle, everybody keep talking about harness's?~ is that those wires on the left side of the case? I think i'll start looking for another/different tranny
It's not that complicated , and has worked fine for decades in millions of vehicles . Why do you think it will be different for you ? For your 305 , the low first gear in the 700 will help with acceleration. With the OD you will benefit most by using a numerically higher ( 3.42 min, and higher) rear gear. This rear gear will also increase acceleration . It's a win win if you understand how to use it to your advantage.
Some good info here and as said previously the cable must be set up correctly or you will fry this tranny in short order http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/techinfo/techinfo.html#Auto
Any overdrive automatic trans will heat the fluid in OD. In a light vehicle there won't be much heating, heavy vehicle or towing there could be so much heat the fluid loses it's ability to lubricate and the gearset fails. The lockup function eliminates this problem. There are several choices. No lockup and large coolers, Hydraulic lockup kits with no electrical components, power from a brake switch with push button or fourth gear switch.
Hey, engine and trans are already hooked together;came out running, so the adjustments on linkage is set. To keep it simple buy the lockup kit that plugs into the square connector on the driver's side of transmission. If not , there are lots of good suggestions available here for other ways of locking up convertor. At least with the combo you have, you know they worked together already. The goemotery is right, verify the cable adjustment with any service manual.
Thanks for the replies, I plan on doing a crap load of reading at work-since we're on spring break & i have plenty of time to read
solenoid Harness? the only wires i see are on the left side of the case. picture #2 Yes that is it..Find a good trans guy in your area and he can assist with the provided info on this thread.. As far as gear , I would opt for a lower ratio than 308. 336 342 355 373..Mutiply your rear gear ratio options by .72 to obtain your final drive ratio at cruise speed//..Best of luck
Hey Duck, Don't worry, it's a fine transmission! Do you still have my phone #? I can help ya if you get stuck. The cheapest way to get it to lock up is to get a normally open pressure switch and change a few wires inside the pan. I know exactly what your doing, I put a 700 in Dad's chevelle. Easy peasy bud. Thom
1992 was the last of the 700r4. Some Corvette and Camaro/Firebirds has the 93 4L60 non electric version, but that's it. After that they are all 4L60e. Need a computer or a box to make it shift. Dime a dozen around the junk yards.
Don't freak. Relax. not bad at all. Spend the bucks and get the Bowtie OD kit. We backed it with a 3.73. it'll one wheel a 275-60 15 all day long, and nice and easy on the freeway. Open a beer and install the BTO kit, and it'll be fine.
To all: Thanks for the help. Now, anyone on Van. Isle or close by interested in a great factory 700R4? I could probably deliver to Inland Highway or there-abouts, Wayne.
It is not true that you have to lock up an '88 -up 700R4 it will not burn up if you don't. You can ignore the connector on the left side if you wish. You will still get overdrive, it just won't lock up so you will lose some efficiency. Those who say otherwise are not familiar with the later 700R4's (or the 4L60). Just set up the TV cable correctly, and it's easy to do that.
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