Updated 11-21-12. My solution is in post #13 I'm working with an AX15 trans. for a fellow Hamber and need some slave cylinder help. It's a Dodge Dakota trans. that uses the external slave cylinder that mounts on the bellhousing. I bought a stock slave cylinder thinking I could plumb it to a Wilwood master cylinder. There's no bleeder screw in the slave cylinder though so I can't see a way to bleed it? Is there one made with a bleeder in it? Also, it has a plastic line on it, any way to plumb a steel line to it? Thanks!
Those slaves dont have bleeders on them. If you need to change one on a Dakotoa they come as a whole unit with the fluid already in them. You change out the entire assembly. For this application you will either have to somehow add a bleeder or go with another type or aftermarket slave.
I was afraid of that I found a pic of an '05-'08 Dakota slave cylinder. It has a bleeder in it. Any idea if it shares the bolt pattern with the early Dakota slave?
My plastic slave cylinder has a set-screw in it that could be replaced with a bleed screw. I just changed the whole shebang in my XJ. I can take a look and see if there is any way or retrofitting another type of line to the slave, other than the plastic one. Also the Jeep Cherokee (XJ) version of this has a master cylinder that looks exactly like the Wilwood Aluminum unit. You might be able to use the whole setup.
I bought the complete assembly like the one shown, thinking I might be able to use the entire setup, wouldn't work though. I see they sell the slave separately, how the hell does anyone use them
The line that goes into the master and slave is held in with a roll pin. Drive it out, and you can take the line out. You can bleed the system by putting the slave at the lowest point (with the pushrod restrained) and repeatedly cycling the master, until no more bubbles come up.
Did a little looking at Jeep stuff, I think we might be on to something here ---> http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/...l-slave-cylinder-clutch-line-write-up-592098/
If you look at the left end of the slave cylinder, you will see a black plug sticking out where the line goes. Adjacent to that, you will see the chamfered hole where the roll pin goes. In the the little baggie, you will find the roll pin, and the line seal. Since this cylinder is Aluminum (if it fits), it can be TAPPED! I'd disassemble it, cut a little off of the end, to remove the seal area and roll pin boss, and tap it NPT, and go from there.
I had similar problems adapting the one piece assembly from mid '90s Camaro T56 setup. American Powertrain has -3AN fittings that attach with roll pins and allow you to use a regular flex hose with AN fittings.
Here's what I finally came up with... Jeep Grand Cherokee slave cylinder and part number... Inside the end in case anyone was wondering... It does share the same bolt pattern as the Dakota... I got an adapter fitting from Advance Adapters to convert to -3AN Thanks for the help everyone!