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#1 |
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Lehigh, IA U.S.A.
Posts: 54
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This is a guide for a simple way to cast a nameplate for your car. This method and materials, however, lends itself very well to making other things such as dash trim , knobs, etc. I do a lot of aluminum casting for myself and it is great to have the means to do it but, the one thing that probably keeps most people away from aluminum casting is the extra work or expense of the foundry setup and its learning curve. There is an answer to this, and it is very simple. I have been using it for years to make all sorts of parts (trim, knobs, horn buttons). Pewter works great for this process. It has a low melting temp around 450-475 F, machines well, polishes up well, and because its main ingredient is tin, it looks a lot more like chrome than polished aluminum. “Real pewter does not contain lead” It is nearly all tin with some antimony and a couple percent of copper. I always keep an eye out for it at antique shops, flea markets, and garage sales and try to pick it up cheap to add to my stash. You can buy it new in ingot form but you are going to spend about $16 a pound. Below is an example of some pieces that I have collected for use. You might be thinking that pewter is just too soft to be of any good. Just take a look at the following photo and realize what it has been used for through the centuries. Cups, mugs, plates, silverware, pitchers, flasks, jewelry, buttons, and on and on. It will work just fine.
![]() Now with that out of the way. The nice thing about pewter’s low melting point is that you have a lot of options for what can be used as a mold. In this case we will be using medium density fiberboard – MDF is cheap, readily available, and easy to work with. Get yourself a chunk and print off your lettering from your computer using the inkjet printer. On this project I used a 250 pt font. Tape it onto your mdf board and use some Xylol on a rag on the paper and it will transfer the lettering to the board. In reverse of course, which is what you want. ![]() Next take your router with a suitable size cutter for your letter size and route out the lettering. I went about .300 deep and this depth is helpful for the mounting studs. ![]() Here it the highly technical part. Because of the melting point all you need is a tin can for your crucible, propane torch, and your cut up scraps of pewter. It doesn’t take too long to melt and then just pour into your mold. It cools off rather quickly so you get very little smoking. ![]() It is better for you to have your mold be too full rather than not full enough. I usually just mill off the back side to make it flat. You can use your router and a couple boards on each side to do this also. Pewter is soft enough that it's not difficult to shave it off. ![]() This is the neat thing about using mdf as your mold material. (This is not totally necessary but it speeds up the de-molding process.) Take and trim around to leave as little material as possible. Then just drop the whole thing in a bucket of water and in 30 to 60 minutes the mdf will fall right off. ![]() You can now put the mounting studs in. I use 10 -24 bolts and I just drill the hole in the back the same size drill bit as if you were going to tap it but instead just screw them in. No tapping. Then just cut them to the right length for your situation. ![]() Now all that is left is to polish your nameplate and mount. I like to spray some flat black paint on the sides and I think it just looks a little better. Hope that you all have found this useful. With a little thought and imagination this can really be utilized on other areas of your car, inside and out. ![]() Smokey
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#2 |
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Burlington
Posts: 417
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Woah! That is pretty cool, I never thought of doing anything like that, I guess one is just limited by router bits and imagination now.
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A series of mechanical gears and linkages |
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#3 |
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Findlay, Ohio
Posts: 40
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I'm gonna give it a try. Thanks for the tips.
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#4 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Eureka!, California
Posts: 1,624
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Awesome!
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Singley Speed Shop 707-599-2315 |
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#5 |
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Medford Oregon
Posts: 4,348
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I have a couple of questions, how do you spot pewter, I wouldn't know what it looks like. Also it appears that the router bit has a flat end and not round, does the edge of the piece you made keep the crisp edge, it's hard to tell in the pic? The mold looks very nice, you did that freehand just folowing the ink transfer? Great tech, thanks for posting.
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A hot rod with too much modern spice, loses it's traditional flavor. Make the HAMB a better place, don't start or post on drama threads and treat other members with respect
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#6 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Middletown,Ohio
Posts: 1,236
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Thanks for the inspiration. I can see some things I'd like to make.
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#7 |
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Old School HAMBer
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Mangakino ........ New Zealand
Posts: 2,843
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Very cool.
And seems so easy. I too would like to identify pewter. |
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#8 |
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Grenade Inspector
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Georgia
Posts: 306
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That's neat! Thanks for putting that up.
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#9 |
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Lehigh, IA U.S.A.
Posts: 54
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Thanks for the responses.
117 harv, Let’s see if I can explain how to tell if is pewter. To start off with it will usually have a touch mark on the outside bottom in the middle of the piece. Usually it identifies it as pewter. However there is some out there that might say American pewter and that is usually some alloy of aluminum and is not useful in this case. If it is an aluminum alloy or silver plated brass/copper, it will have a ring to it when thumped with your finger, pewter has a dull sound. Also if you took one of those goblets that is show in the first photo the thin cross section could be bent or deformed with your fingers. Pewter is about the only metal, that the examples in the photo, would be made of, that would melt at such a low temp. After a while it will be easy to tell. I usually always go by the sound. Yes the bit is flat and that is so I can keep the edges sharp. Also since this is a one use mold there is no need for draft. I know the pics turned out kind of crappy so sorry for that. Freehand. When routing I find the best way is to hog out most of the waste material leaving just enough of the outside line to clean up at full depth in one final pass. About the width of a pencil line. Make sense? It also helps to use that little laminate trimmer as a router, great control. 41 C28 and all, If you have access to a metal lathe it turns like butter and polishes like a mirror. All you have to do is make a mold to pour a chunk close to size to what you are making. For example I needed an transition ring to go from a smaller old horn button to a steering wheel. I just cast a ring using mdf as a mold. When polished the finish looked just like the chrome horn button. It wouldn’t have if it was aluminum. Smokey
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Don't piss down my back and tell me it's rainin! |
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#10 |
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Grenade Inspector
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Willow Springs Mo.
Posts: 187
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Thats cool always looking for something new to try.
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#11 |
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Old School HAMBer
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Dayton,Ohio
Posts: 2,673
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Great Tech.....
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you're born,you die,in between you build hot rods |
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#12 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Dayton Ohio
Posts: 2,303
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Cool!
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#13 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: BHC, AZ
Posts: 2,236
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My kid wants to get into sand casting and this would be a great start, thx.
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Some of you guys are so tight with your money, I bet you can stretch a penny to wire your car. |
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#14 |
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Member
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Waco, TX
Posts: 731
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Oh yeah, gotta try this... Thanks for posting!
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Experience has been a brutal but effective teacher. EnragedHawk's Custom Creations 55 Chevy Panel |
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#15 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Ontario
Posts: 65
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Thanks for the article. This is something I need to try.
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Drive like lightning, crash like thunder |
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#16 |
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Pella, Iowa, USA
Posts: 1,360
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Great tech post! Just back from Colorado...planning on calling, to say thanks for milling my axle...THANKS!
Steve |
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#17 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: b.c.
Posts: 1,263
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I look forward to trying this one day....... thanks
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a time to weld , a time to grind. |
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#18 |
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: blackwater mo .com
Posts: 866
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very good tech thanks
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#19 |
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Old School HAMBer
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Mangakino ........ New Zealand
Posts: 2,843
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The price of old pewter stuff just went up 500%.
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#20 |
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Old School HAMBer
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Wa. "The Wet Side"/ Socal "The Desert"
Posts: 7,021
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great tech and also great write up!
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