I am looking for some dimensioned drawings that I can use to build a chassis for my channelled T coupe project. Suicide front and Zed rear for starters. Just wondering what is out there that could save a little time. If you project is done then a pic of the finished stance would be valued as well.
Here are a couple pics of my 26. Z's front and rear, suicide front end w/dropped tube axle,channeled, and chopped 6".
You might want to start with Wescott's site: http://wescottsauto.com/Tech/FrameDiagram1926-27.pdf Charlie Stephens
Any basic "T" bucket chassis diagram will do. You need to figure wheelbase and firewall width and such, but it will be very close. I wouldn't personally build my car from somebody elses idea of the perfect frame. Get all you stuff together, measure everything, and sit down with a pad of paper and a staraight edge. Not a big deal.
Need louvers feels the same way I do, every car is different and the only way to get YOUR car to look the way YOU want is to build a custom frame to accomplish the look you want and to hold the components you are selecting. Most of the hot rods you see on here with custom frames started the same way. The builder propped up the body at the height and stance he likes, shoved the motor in front of the firewall, and then set some tires in place. Once he had the look he liked he then built a simple ladder type frame to fit that particular setup. Sometimes it is helpful to build the first frame out of 2 x 4 lumber so you can sit back and look at it and , if needed, cut it and make changes until you get one that works, then you can duplicate that wood frame in 2 x 3 or 2 x 4 rectangular tubing. Don
What you are looking for is a one size fits all, off the rack frame drawing, and while there are some of those out there (like on the T Bucket forum) it really isn't going to be a perfect fit for the way you want YOUR car to look. If you want it to be that simple, just order a prefab frame from someone like Speedway and make adjustments to work with your stuff. You have to realize you are building a uniique custom car unlike any other one that has ever been built in history. There are some that will be similar, but not one will be exactly like yours. You may be using a different motor, or rear axle, or front suspension than the other guy. Just make up your own drawing from measurements you take off of your body and engine, it isn't all that hard. Most of us on here have built a car or two from chalk marks on the concrete garage floor over the years. Don
I am not looking for a one size fits all. I am curious to know what is available and particularly if a finished pic is posted as well I may just choose to replicate it with my own choice of color and small refinements. There is a bunch of T coupe guys out there who may have something to offer that would work for me.
I had hoped for more info, but this is a good start. FRAMES MODEL-A Our frames are available in four different profiles to give your hot rod the stance you want. From a low frame with a 5″ front sweep and a 12″ rear Z, to a more traditional style frame with no front sweep and a modest 6″ rear Z, and everything in between. We stretch our frames just a few inches to accommodate your engine, without having to recess your firewall. All of our frames are TIG welded in a jig, and have internal gussets for added strength. The frames feature new Model A front frame horns, new 32 Ford front crossmember, and tapered front frame rails like the original “A” frame. We can also fabricate frames for various other hot rod applications. We also offer complete chassis! Choosing a profile is the first step to determine which chassis is best for you. Here is a list of our most commom profiles; 0-6 frame, has no front sweep and a 6″ rear Z, great for unchanneled/highboy traditional styled hotrods 2-8 frame, 2″ front sweep and a 8″ rear Z, our most popular frame and great for channeled and chopped hotrods, but also works well with unchanneled/highboys too 4-10 frame, 4″ front sweep and a 10″ rear Z, for those that want a low channeled hotrod but don’t want it too radical 5-12 frame, 5″ front sweep and a 12″ rear Z, our lowest ‘A’ chassis that gets your hotrod low, but not too low to drive and have fun <!-- / message --><!-- sig -->
from the things you have posted, I dont think you will be happy with a store bought frame. go back to the post that says block up the body and other components to where you want them, then make your frame to fit. repeat: make your own frame
I saw that posted on the other thread, but it tells you virtually nothing. It's just kickup figures. Ride height is still going to be effected by the suspension you use and the type of springing you chose. I see nothing about wheelbase options, front crossmember options, how wide it will be at the firewall and rear crossmember. Sorry to burst your bubble on this one, but a good boy scout is always prepared.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=150434&highlight=brian+angus try this one out.. Roy
Do what I did and get your tape out.... I had it figured out pretty quick just by measuring the body, where the axles should be, and the engine/trans with fan!!
Thanks again for your help, I appreciate all the posts and I am forming a basic view of what I want to achieve. It may not be the way others do it but I must be different, sorry. There are so many great T builds out there I thought I could better target the style and basic dimensions this way. How is the best way to work out the front drop on a suicide front end. It seems if you go too low then the tie rod will hit the chassis during suspension movement. I see some folks end up with the tie rod out front which does not appeal to me all that much.
The Jalopy Journal
