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#1 |
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Anderson,S.C.
Posts: 16,589
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I developed a gas leak in the original gas tank in the 1954 Ranch Wagon so a few months ago I did the logical think and ordered up a new replacement tank.
Over the last few weeks I noticed a smell in the shop and sure enough the new tank was leaking at the fitting,coincidentally is the same place the old tank was leaking. I replaced the fitting with a new one,,even used thread tape but the DAMN thing is still leaking,,today I tried to give it a little snug thinking maybe I didn't have it tight enough,,now it's leaking even more. ![]() I'm outta ideas,,HRP
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Tradition without intelligence is not worth having. T.S. Eliot '54 Ranch Wagon build photos |
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#2 |
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: webster,florida
Posts: 2,666
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Sure you don't have a cracked line at fitting and the tighter it gets the bigger the crack. Had that on a 53 Chevy.
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#3 |
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Anderson,S.C.
Posts: 16,589
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I've changed the fitting. HRP
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Tradition without intelligence is not worth having. T.S. Eliot '54 Ranch Wagon build photos |
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#4 |
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Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Stephenville TX
Posts: 531
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You can use a product called true blue. It's a pipe dope and safe to use with gas. I have used it with many pieces of equipment. It's pretty messy but works.
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#5 |
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Shawnee, KS 66218
Posts: 2,662
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brad chevy has a point, sometimes a flared fitting can have a crack that will leak. If it's a compression or pipe thread fitting, not quite so likely.
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#6 |
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Old School HAMBer
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: in my own little world
Posts: 10,145
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are you using the correct fittings? maybe something is mismatched
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when small men begin to cast long shadows , it is a sure sign the sun is setting. |
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#7 |
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Grenade Inspector
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: santa maria
Posts: 265
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bet line is cracked
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#8 |
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Alliance Vendor
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Elmer,Mo.USA All the COOL... people on the HAMB have already been here,why haven't you?
Posts: 8,209
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Get it stopped/dry[drain in last resort]....stir up up a small amount of [old] formula JB weld... wipe around the exposed threads on the outside only,do not put on threads and re install.
after overnite dry- It will not leak then,but if it was on threads and reinstalled it would not be able to be removed any longer!
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Running in place, will never get you the results that running from a Lion will.....
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#9 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 1,248
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Believe it or not, out Walgreen's they have a "As Seen On TV" aisle. I had a tank leak on my old '53 tank, and I picked up something called "Amazing Putty", or "Wonder Putty", or whatever the hell it was called. I actually caught it on a late-nite informercial, and they showed it sealing cracks and holes underwater, so I was intrigued due to the wet surface at the gas leak. Worked perfectly. No idea how or even IF it differs from regular epoxy putty, but it worked great.
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Working on a documentary about cars made after 1972... It's called "Cars I Don't Give a FUCK About". "Do I drive it? Of course I drive it. It's a car, not a fucking Monet..." |
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#10 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Pine Canyon, Utah
Posts: 1,389
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Is it pipe thread or a flare fitting?
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1936 Chevrolet 1/2 ton 1937 Plymouth P4 1964 Chevrolet 1/2 ton |
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#11 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Dayton Ohio
Posts: 2,294
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I would think the fuel line its self is cracked, or it isn't the exact correct fitting. My Plymouth doesn't have the exact correct fitting there's supposed to be a specail ferrul fitting that I don't have but I did manage to find a brass adapter that is close enough to not leak. I'm not really sure why it wasn't really leaking before I took it down to get it cleaned and sealed, maybe I lost the ferrul or it fell out while getting the tank done.
Could you post a picture of the fitting going into the tank? |
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#12 |
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FNG
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 39
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I'm not sure what ford used for fittings in 54 ,but I would double check that you are using the correct fitting. I've used pipe dope on my pipe fittings on my multiple carb set ups.I wouldnt recommend using it on a fuel tank fitting. Older Fords use a compression style fitting with ferrell (available thru Mac's and such) wish I could be more help.
Dont take chances, fix it right. |
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#13 |
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Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 408
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this may sound stupid but we had my business partners 56 chevy in the shop for a leaking sending unit four or five times and thought it was fixed each time. Then it started leaking again and it would miss real bad everynow and then if you got into it real hard. I changed about everything on the car, fuel pump, carb all the filters, even all the electrical stuff. After I couldnt find the problem we decided to just fix the sending unit again and let it go. I fixed the unit with a new gasket and a reinforcement plate and put air in the tank with gas in it. Yep still leaked so this time I stayed under the car while they put air in the tank and it wasnt the unit after all it was the fuel line just about an inch above the fitting. I removed the line and it had cracked and finally split open therefore it would starve the motor for fuel and also leak down on the sending unit. This was new line and about an inch from any bend. just saying you may want to check all the lines and make sure it isnt cracked . Hope this helps RED
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#14 |
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FNG
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: detroit
Posts: 3
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You might try a product called seals all, works on gas and diesel, clean the area, not need to drain the tank, stuff works great!!! Good Luck Johnny
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#15 | |
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Old School HAMBer
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Hudson, Maine
Posts: 3,840
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Quote:
However, just going by your description I'm guessing its the line too.
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Hot Rod Son |
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#16 |
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Woodruff, SC
Posts: 1,869
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I'm with the rest I'll bet it's the line.
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Si vis pacem, para bellum |
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#17 |
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: MINN. JUST NORTH OF TWIN CITIES
Posts: 4,911
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your own facts lead to the line failure
gravity and how the line is routed may be a clue try a temporary hose/ line bypassing this unit.. review all fittings under magnification have a freind close by and proper extingquisher drain and remove tank and ?? fittings and lines make a pressure fit plug on end of line going to tank add air pressure soak down with soap soloution look for leaks submerge in a water tank if needed have new tank pressure tested if needed install all new line out bung or fitting your close go go go
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Anything is possible if you don't know what you are talking about..... |
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#18 |
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Anderson,S.C.
Posts: 16,589
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Long day,,drained gas tank,bought a new fitting and gas line,,DAMMIT,still got a small leak!
I've had enough for one day,,I'm gonna get some seals all tomorrow and give it a shot. HRP
__________________
Tradition without intelligence is not worth having. T.S. Eliot '54 Ranch Wagon build photos |
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#19 |
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Grenade Inspector
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Connersville
Posts: 281
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Sounds like the threads in the tank are buggered. I have had great luck using LockTite as pipe dope. Just let it set up a little before exposing it to gas.
Bill |
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#20 |
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: M'town, Iowa
Posts: 6,524
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A couple month old tank has a leak? How about sending it back?
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#21 | |
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Old School HAMBer
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: CT
Posts: 8,043
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Quote:
Use a strong narrow beam mini light and a big magnifier to look at the tapered seat in the tank inlet fitting. Something should show? |
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#22 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Minneapolis
Posts: 1,432
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No matter what anyone tells you, JB quik or JB weld will not seal up a gas leak.
It worked back in the day, but not anymore. |
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#23 |
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Old School HAMBer
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Ks
Posts: 2,993
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Don't half ass it with seal all crap, find the problem and fix it, the factory didn't use sealer. Is the flare cracked? Lippy
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#24 |
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: St Charles, Missouri
Posts: 833
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The two piece clear liquid epoxy that comes in a tube, is definitely gasoline resistant. I've used it myself several times. Just make sure everything is clean.
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#25 |
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: SO.FLO.
Posts: 4,051
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i have used the same and it does work.
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KNOW NOTHING C.C. EST.2012 |
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#26 |
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: On the road to Bethlehem....no....really!!
Posts: 5,140
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What part of the joint is leaking Danny?
What kind of joint is it?
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Member ADHDC. Sure, I have a lot of cars but...Hey, that would look real cool with a... |
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#27 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Phoenix,AZ
Posts: 1,996
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Quote:
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#28 |
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Alliance Vendor
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Elmer,Mo.USA All the COOL... people on the HAMB have already been here,why haven't you?
Posts: 8,209
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You must have not waited till it dried, it works every time I ever used it for that reason.....
__________________
Running in place, will never get you the results that running from a Lion will.....
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#29 |
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Grenade Inspector
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Virginia Beach
Posts: 315
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take a pic of the joint. if its a flare fitting, is it a double flare? The more you tighten a flare the bigger the leak and crack on the flare. if the threads are leaking on both tanks then i'd suspect the fitting. correct threads? should be NPT (tapered) is the fitting brass going into steel threads of the tank? brass thread need a little extra teflon tape and they are soft, so a burgered outlet will trash brass threads over and over. may need to get a NPT tap and chase the threads. easy to overtighten when loaded with teflon and brass threads. (if your running a brass fitting)
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#30 |
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FNG
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: lamar South Carolina
Posts: 45
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Use the old permatex goo. It will seal it and it does not harden. It is safe for gas. Also I worked on a carb that would not stop leaking. I used red locktite at the sealing surface. Just a drop or 2 and don't get it in the threads. Gas will not break it down either.
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#31 |
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Member Emeritus
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Deuceland, in South Carolina
Posts: 9,538
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I suggest installing a pipe plug and plugging up the hole.
IF then you still have a leak ... it is the line. I am going to Daves today ... call me and we will bend a new line
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"Whether you think that you can, or that you can't, you are usually right." Henry Ford |
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#32 |
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: South Indy
Posts: 4,384
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Everyone is saying cracked LINE at the flair. You keep jacking around with the FITTING. Get a magnifying glass and look at it.
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When I grow up, to beeee heee a man. Will I dig the same things that turned me on as a kid? Will I look back and say, I wish I hadn't done what I did? B. Wilson. |
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#33 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: ca
Posts: 1,945
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i would do it the correct way , even if you have to do it ten times , or it will bite you in the ass .
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V4F "HOT IRONS" CC |
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#34 |
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Shawnee, KS 66218
Posts: 2,662
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So you drained the tank, and put on a new fitting and line, and it still leaks? The common denominator is now the tank, right? Did you re-use any other hardware? A close up picture of the offending area would really help.
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#35 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Dayton Ohio
Posts: 2,294
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Thats a good idea!
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#36 |
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Woodruff, SC
Posts: 1,869
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+1!
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Si vis pacem, para bellum |
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#37 |
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Old School HAMBer
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Boonton, NJ
Posts: 2,695
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This is what I'm thinking, too. Or the fitting in the tank has split or cracked the solder.
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BLASTERS&BEER |
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#38 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Patinaville, Tennessee
Posts: 1,881
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The new leak may be coming from between the poly and the brass fitting, or you might consider mis-matched fittings as the culprit.
If it were me I'd be looking for a steel tank for that nice wagon. You might try Jeff Curry at 860-643-0026, or John at Big M auto parts 530-473-2225. If one of them has a good used tank then get it, and clean and slosh it like the pros do. I'll be off-line for a week or so, but good luck with it.
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"Who's your Unkledaddy?" |
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#39 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Bethlehem, PA
Posts: 1,674
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Since you're obviously at the point of exasperation (I'm sure you know we've all been there...I'm going through it right now trying to get an old gauge to work right), you might try eliminating the hard line coming out of the tank, at least for a bit. That will eliminate the "cracked line" possibility. You could get one of those plumbing pieces that screws into the tank, but accepts the hose on the other end (I'm sure this is obvious to you). You could possibly even incorporate a shut off valve there, while you're at it. I'd suggest using the Gate Barricade hose, which will stand up to the ethanol. In my eyes, that would be the easiest way for you to find out what is leaking. I have this set up coming out of my 85 year old gas tank & have never had any leaks.
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#40 |
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Anderson,S.C.
Posts: 16,589
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Day two,round two and the leak is still winning the fight and I still have a minor leak but I have now determined it is not any of my fittings nor the hard lines even though they have all been replaced.
I am sure that the problem is the bung in the tank,there is still a minor leak between the bung and the tank. Before I drain the damn tank again I am going to get in touch with the people I bought it from and get their recommendation. Thanks for all the help. HRP
__________________
Tradition without intelligence is not worth having. T.S. Eliot '54 Ranch Wagon build photos |
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#41 |
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Old School HAMBer
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Gainesville, GA
Posts: 3,931
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Another vote for Seals All.
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#42 |
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Grenade Inspector
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: OKC, OK
Posts: 216
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I like the Gates barricade hose route idea.
Loctite makes the stuff for keeping fittings from leaking. It also prevents galling and prevents vibration loosening. LOCTITE® 580TM is designed for the locking and sealing of metal pipes and fittings. This product has been formulated to impart lubricity, provide immediate low pressure sealing, and to cure to a solid for sealing and securing threaded pipe connections. The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces and prevents loosening and leakage from shock and vibration. This product has been formulated to cure without the use of heat or activators on stainless steel or other inactive surfaces. LOCTITE® 580TM is recommended for sealing thread fittings in fossil fuel, solar and hydro power plant piping systems. Application areas include instrumentation, water/coolant systems, fuel oil piping, low pressure steam lines, pumps and valves, hydraulics, compressors, condensors, gas lines, controls, electrical conduit & rad-waste systems. |
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#43 |
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: trevose pa
Posts: 4,881
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Im with the jb weld stuff.I love that stuff
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#44 |
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: MINN. JUST NORTH OF TWIN CITIES
Posts: 4,911
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ru to the point of running an outboard motors gas tank in the passenger seat /// ahem do not
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...3&l=f24a900b58
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Anything is possible if you don't know what you are talking about..... Last edited by paperdog; 07-22-2012 at 10:04 PM. |
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#45 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Patinaville, Tennessee
Posts: 1,881
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The JB Weld, Loctite and others won't bond poly to brass.............or bond to poly, period.
__________________
"Who's your Unkledaddy?" |
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#46 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Minneapolis
Posts: 1,432
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#47 |
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Alliance Vendor
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Elmer,Mo.USA All the COOL... people on the HAMB have already been here,why haven't you?
Posts: 8,209
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Let's not hijack this guy's post......
I know when gas leaks out of a tank I repaired.......It worked for my projects. Here is an equiptment related tank I cut the entire top off of it /welded it with Mig and JB'd the seams where pinholes were most surely located..... taken today in 106 degree heat with full tank of gas in it... lets keep it to ourselves OK?
__________________
Running in place, will never get you the results that running from a Lion will.....
Last edited by choprods; 07-23-2012 at 06:56 PM. |
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#48 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Sacramento Ca
Posts: 2,287
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Ford used their own style fittings in the 40's,....Not sure if they continued those into the 50's or beyond.....
4TTRUK |
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#49 |
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: On the road to Bethlehem....no....really!!
Posts: 5,140
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Danny, what materials are involved here?
When you said replacement tank, I figured Steel, but now we have folks talking about Poly. Wish I could just walk over and take a peek. How are you making out with the vendor? Oh, and since I am unfamiliar with old fords, from your post, I assume the fitting is on the tank and not the sending unit...right?
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Member ADHDC. Sure, I have a lot of cars but...Hey, that would look real cool with a... |
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#50 |
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Newbie
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Minneapolis
Posts: 53
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3M wind shield adhesive will stop gas leaks. It one of the only things that really seals good. Used it on some dirtbike tanks and works great. Dries hard like a skateboard wheel
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#51 | |
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Anderson,S.C.
Posts: 16,589
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Quote:
The tank has a bung with a female fitting. HRP
__________________
Tradition without intelligence is not worth having. T.S. Eliot '54 Ranch Wagon build photos |
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#52 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Patinaville, Tennessee
Posts: 1,881
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Sorry...........I didn't realize there was a steel replacement tank available for the Ranch Wagon, so I assumed it was a Tanks poly tank.
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"Who's your Unkledaddy?" |
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