Technical MII Power Steering

[48FordFanatic]

Sorry to bring this up again, but I've searched and can't find the post of several months ago where someone has used the Heidts adjustable flow control valve to tune the feel of their power steering. I'd like to contact someone using this valve to see if it really works to tighten the feel of the power steering. Thanks, John

[dontlifttoshift]

That valve does not work, and by the time you are done plumbing it, it is relatively expensive.

An alignment with some more positive caster will help and Borgeson sells a shim kit as well as revalved pumps that work quite well.

[1947vert]

I just installed the Borgeson shim kit. Worked like a charm. I am very pleased with the results. Road feel on the highway and no longer "sensative" at high speed. Easy to turn in tight situations such as parking.

[38Chevy454]

Originally Posted by dontlifttoshift

That valve does not work, and by the time you are done plumbing it, it is relatively expensive.

An alignment with some more positive caster will help and Borgeson sells a shim kit as well as revalved pumps that work quite well.

X2

The reason the valve does not work is you still have the initial high pressure that makes it initially move the rack more than you want, then the valve restricts the flow volume which results in lower pressure for a short time. The root problem is too high of pressure by the pump, not the volume. The valve is not addressing the root cause of the problem. The Borgeson shim does address the problem by making lower pressure.

[butcherted]

I had the Heidts adjustable flow control valve on my Chevy it did not work very well,
I lost a spring under the cap, I contacted Heidts to get the part the could not help me at all. it was not cheap to do and did not work, and they did not try to help.
I am changing as of now to a t-bird rack.

[cosmo]

Shim kit, its the proper solution.

Cosmo

[cryobug]

I have done the shims many times with fair results but you still have the high volume of P/S fluid. The only way I will run power steering from now on is by using the Flaming River Variable Pressure Low-Flow Pump. I have removed two good working as they should shimmed pumps and replaced them with the Variable Pressure Low-Flow Pumps having a much happier customer in the end. I am on my third FRPMPSB-V for my own use. I usually buy them on EBay for $100.00 or less and make a Remote reservoir from a stainless overflow tank by changing the bottom fittings.

[gimpyshotrods]

Use the later 88'ish T-Bird rack, instead of the MII rack (one piece, not TRW, regular ratio). They are about $75 at the auto parts store, and don't have the pressure/flow issues when used with a GM/Saginaw pump. It is a tiny bit wider in the mounts, so you'd have to slot the holes a little, but that's it.

[Mr48chev]

Originally Posted by gimpyshotrods

Use the later 88'ish T-Bird rack, instead of the MII rack (one piece, not TRW, regular ratio). They are about $75 at the auto parts store, and don't have the pressure/flow issues when used with a GM/Saginaw pump. It is a tiny bit wider in the mounts, so you'd have to slot the holes a little, but that's it.

Thanks, as I need to replace the rack anyhow that will work for me.

[63bigbird]

I agree with gimpy

[48FordFanatic]

Originally Posted by gimpyshotrods

Use the later 88'ish T-Bird rack, instead of the MII rack (one piece, not TRW, regular ratio). They are about $75 at the auto parts store, and don't have the pressure/flow issues when used with a GM/Saginaw pump. It is a tiny bit wider in the mounts, so you'd have to slot the holes a little, but that's it.

I'm using a 93 Mustang ( not Mustang II ) rack., guess I mislead in the post title, sorry. I'm told by NAPA that its the same rack as the T-bird. My Fatman cross member is slotted to accept both. Do you know if the racks are truly the same ?

[mrconcdid]

I am using the borgenson shim kit, took longer to get the pump off then to install the kit. I like it, it works real nice, one thing I am considering is to use a smaller steering wheel, that would make the steering alittle less touchy ( less leverage on the wheel ) plush I could use the leg room. even with the stock steering wheel it is very managable and easy to drive.
My rack came from NAPA ($140) it is for a T bird and im using an 1980 chevy power steering pump. just to be clear, you can see it in my build thred.

Godspeed
MrC.

[divco13]

I have had a Heidts adjustable flow control valve, on my DIvco for near 10 years. It has worked perfect, since day one.

Gm power steering pump, with a Mustang ii power rack. Those are 295/15 BFG, very low effort. Very easy to adjust. Sure there are less costly adapters. If every there is a problem with the pump, no screwing around with restricters. Just replace the pump.

[Hnstray]

Originally Posted by mrconcdid

I am using the borgenson shim kit, took longer to get the pump off then to install the kit. I like it, it works real nice, one thing I am considering is to use a smaller steering wheel, that would make the steering alittle less touchy ( less leverage on the wheel ) plush I could use the leg room. even with the stock steering wheel it is very managable and easy to drive.
My rack came from NAPA ($140) it is for a T bird and im using an 1980 chevy power steering pump. just to be clear, you can see it in my build thred.

Godspeed
MrC.

I think you will find the smaller wheel will not address the problem as you might think. The smaller diameter wheel turns less distance at the rim for the same amount of degrees of steering shaft rotation, meaning any movement of the steering wheel will be "faster" than a larger diameter wheel moved the same distance at the rim. The effort will be greater, as you suspect, but the movement ratio change will likely negate that, at best, and may make the overall situation a little worse.

Ray

[DoubleJ52]

I used a Borgeson pump designed for use with a Ford rack and used a Flaming River Street Rod rack in my 41 Chevy with absolutely no problems. Also kept a 17" steering wheel in it as well.

[mrconcdid]

Originally Posted by Hnstray

I think you will find the smaller wheel will not address the problem as you might think. The smaller diameter wheel turns less distance at the rim for the same amount of degrees of steering shaft rotation, meaning any movement of the steering wheel will be "faster" than a larger diameter wheel moved the same distance at the rim. The effort will be greater, as you suspect, but the movement ratio change will likely negate that, at best, and may make the overall situation a little worse.

Ray

Im sure you are correct, I agree the movement of the wheel will be less and so I will have to ajust my driving style, The added leg room is a nice way of saying I'm fat.. Thanks for bringing it to everyone attention..

Godspeed
MrC.

[brokenspoke]

Originally Posted by mrconcdid

I am using the borgenson shim kit, took longer to get the pump off then to install the kit. I like it, it works real nice, one thing I am considering is to use a smaller steering wheel, that would make the steering alittle less touchy ( less leverage on the wheel ) plush I could use the leg room. even with the stock steering wheel it is very managable and easy to drive.
My rack came from NAPA ($140) it is for a T bird and im using an 1980 chevy power steering pump. just to be clear, you can see it in my build thred.

Godspeed
MrC.

A smaller wheel will make it more sensitive

[gimpyshotrods]

Originally Posted by 48FordFanatic

I'm using a 93 Mustang ( not Mustang II ) rack., guess I mislead in the post title, sorry. I'm told by NAPA that its the same rack as the T-bird. My Fatman cross member is slotted to accept both. Do you know if the racks are truly the same ?

Yes, maybe. Physically, the interchange, but there are three different racks used in the Mustang/T-Bird chassis. One is a two-piece aluminum and steel housing one, made by TRW. I have not used one of these and don't know much about it. The other two have an all aluminum, one-piece housing, and are OEM Ford. Of those two, there are two steering ratios, 3.0:1 and 2.5:1, respectively. I have used both. The 2.5:1 ratio unit is too quick, in my opinion. It took it out of the car and put a 3.0:1 unit instead.

My local Autozone has them for $53.99 (+$20.00 core). Part number is: 6406 (alternate part number.: 72-1025).

[48FordFanatic]

Thanks guys for all the information. I have determined that my rack is 3 turns lock-to-lock. I also found that with the pump I'm using being from a truck, it might have been set up for 1500 psi so even after installing the Borgeson shims the pressure could still be too high. I'm going to add some shims this weekend. I'm also working on a bypass set up to dump flow and pressure at the pump discharge directly back to the pump ( essentially what Heidts does with its valve) , and HAMB member "cryobug" has given me information on the Flaming River variable flow/pressure pump which might be the best solution.

I'll let you know how I make out .

John

[CutawayAl]

Altering the system pressure will only change MAX assist and possible make the system easier to "outrun". Bypassing or restricting oil delivery will effect max assist, and make it easier to "outrun" the system. On a normally functioning system the "outrun" condition can be felt by moving the wheel quickly with the engine idling. At the point where resistance increases the steering input has "outrun" the system's capacity. You don't want to make that easier to do. Slowing ther pump speed is another often suggested option. That also increases the ability to outrun the system. Although some of these things will reduce max assist, none are going to change the feel of the steering in normal driving. To do that the valving and/or torsion bar in the spool valve must be changed. Most systems don't led themselves to doing that. Different spool valves are used in different applications. Finding and installing one more suited to tour wants is the only way to change steering assist without causing problems.