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#61 |
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Gisborne, New Zealand
Posts: 186
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Got the front crossmember set back into place. Due to the notch in the ront rails for spring clearance, I needed to thin the rear face of the crossmember first.
I pie cut a section from the back face, and closed up the gap, which allowed the crossmember to meet up with the reduced height portion of the rail. ![]() Once again, I had to fill a whole bunch of unneeded holes in the crossmember, and after trimming for a tight fit between the boxing plates, it slid nicely in to place. ![]() I left the front flange intact to retain a stock appearance, and also to provide the correct mounting for the radiator support brackets later. ![]() Once this is final welded, the front face should flow nicely into the 'capped' ends of the boxing plates.
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STANCE IS EVERYTHING! ![]() Check out my '36 3-window build here: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=685168 |
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#62 | |
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Gisborne, New Zealand
Posts: 186
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Quote:
Thanks Richie, I wish I could agree with you on the welding, it's nowhere near as pretty as I'd like it to be. I guess that comes with a lot more 'seat time' but unfortunately I just don't seem to get enough of it. ![]() Bear
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STANCE IS EVERYTHING! ![]() Check out my '36 3-window build here: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=685168 |
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#63 |
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 948
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Holy Sh%t, it never ceases to amaze me about the talent you will find on this board.
Killer build, I really dig your fab work. This 36 is gonna be fun to watch! Thanks for sharing, Im subscribed!!!
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THE "JERSEY 33" DRY LAKES COUPE http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=495426[/U] |
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#64 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Dayton Ohio
Posts: 2,303
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Impressive work!
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#65 | ||
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Gisborne, New Zealand
Posts: 186
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Quote:
Quote:
Thanks for all the positive comments and encouragement, guys! It means a lot. ![]() Pretty much the same deal with the rear crossmember - a couple hours filling excess holes and prepping, then I trimmed it up to fit the '36 rear frame width. Due to the 'A' crossmember tapering off at the ends, I needed to extend the lips on the channel by about an inch and a half at each end to meet the '36 rails. ![]() Everything ended up fitting real nice into the new rear kick-up section. The rear upper and front lower corners of the crossmember are both right on the edges of the chassis rail section, the rear lower fixes right to where the original top flange of the rail runs inside the new kick-up ( so no 'oil-canning' issues there) and I will eventually form a triangular gusset to transfer the load of the front upper corner to the top of the rail. ![]() The crossmember still has a bit of surface pitting which I will also address later, but I figure it's not too bad for an 80-something year old piece. I sat an original Model 'A' main leaf in place to check the fit, and it looks like once the eyes are reversed, everything is gonna' be spot on at ride height. ![]() Bear
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STANCE IS EVERYTHING! ![]() Check out my '36 3-window build here: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=685168 Last edited by Surf City; 04-08-2012 at 10:37 PM. |
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#66 |
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Amarillo, TX
Posts: 4,047
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Very nice! Brand new shop uh? If I weren't so far away, I'd come and help you add "character" to it.
I sure would like one of my own to add character to. The garage I have has plenty of character, just not enough room to hold all of it. ![]() iPhone - TJJ app
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'28 Model A Coupster - Project Mattitude |
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#67 | |
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Gisborne, New Zealand
Posts: 186
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Quote:
![]() Or maybe I just had more energy back then!
__________________
STANCE IS EVERYTHING! ![]() Check out my '36 3-window build here: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=685168 |
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#68 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Gunnison, Colorado
Posts: 1,008
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[QUOTE=TexasSpeed;7626097]Very nice! I like where this is heading.. There aren't enough hot rodded '36 Fords. QUOTE]
Agreed ! I have Two, a '36 Three Window, and a '36 Roadster. Both are going to be Hot Rodded. Subscribed and watching with great anticipation. Johnnie.
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The best way to die......Is to Live ! |
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#69 |
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Gisborne, New Zealand
Posts: 186
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Stripped the original x-member down to the last nut, bolt and rivet and sent it off to the sandblaster. (And no, the cats were absolutely no help at all
)![]() Once it came back, I rough cut it to size and set it down on top of the frame rails to formulate a plan.
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STANCE IS EVERYTHING! ![]() Check out my '36 3-window build here: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=685168 |
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#70 |
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Gisborne, New Zealand
Posts: 186
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After lots of careful measuring, I decided that I really needed extra space in the transmission area, particularly if the gearbox was ever gonna' have to come out once the body was on.
Rather than modifying the x-member in that area, I figured it would be better to spread the two sections further apart, which would allow the much bulkier Tremec to come back the 7 inches or so to clear the bellhousing, just in case I ever fried a clutch (or worse ).I knew that the new floor was gonna' have to be made from scratch anyways (despite the original floor being almost mint), so re-hashing the x-member wasn't really such a big deal. I made up a couple temporary spacers for the centre section, which widened the gap by about 3 1/2 inches, and also brought the centre up to flush with the top of the rails. I laid the 'x' on top of the rails, and scribed the cut lines, then very carefully made the cuts, sneaking up on the lines bit by bit. ![]() Once I was happy with the fit, I squared everything up and tacked the legs of the 'x' into place. ![]()
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STANCE IS EVERYTHING! ![]() Check out my '36 3-window build here: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=685168 |
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#71 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: falkville al
Posts: 1,896
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liking your work!!! but what i really like is the design of that table your workin on! im gonna steal it ( the design not the table.lol) ok?
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#72 |
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Old School HAMBer
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Melbourne, Victoria, Australia
Posts: 4,306
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Super sano work SC....watching this one !!
Keep em comin !! Rat
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"IF IT WAS'NT FOR BAD LUCK I WOULD'NT HAVE ANY LUCK AT ALL" |
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#73 |
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Old School HAMBer
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Nova Scotia
Posts: 5,480
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Beautiful workmanship!!
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#74 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Derby, KS / Home Town Poplar Bluff, MO
Posts: 1,351
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Very nice looking work on that frame.
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"I still consider the small block Chevrolet the most important motor ever created." - Ryan |
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#75 | |
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Gisborne, New Zealand
Posts: 186
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Quote:
The table is pretty basic, but it does what I need. All the steel is stuff I got in trade for a flame job, so the design was based more around what I had than what I would have liked. It seems to be stiff enough (I've built a whole chassis from flat sheet in fixtures bolted to this), and I guess the best thing about it is that it is so open. You can climb thru' it or work from underneath to weld stuff, or even stand in the centre to get at stuff. The top rectangle is made from heavy 2 x 4 channel, legs are 2 x 4 box, lower crossbeams are 3 x 3 box, lower side rails are 2 x 3 box, and the angled braces are 2 x 2 box. I drilled equally spaced holes down both sides so's I could bolt a variety of fabricated 'stations' to it, and then remove them when required. This was my '34 woody frame in the early stages. ![]() Bear
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STANCE IS EVERYTHING! ![]() Check out my '36 3-window build here: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=685168 |
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#76 | |
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Gisborne, New Zealand
Posts: 186
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Quote:
Thanks a bunch, guys. That's the 'restoration' stuff outta' the way. Now I can start making some stuff from scratch!
__________________
STANCE IS EVERYTHING! ![]() Check out my '36 3-window build here: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=685168 |
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#77 |
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Gisborne, New Zealand
Posts: 186
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Had a couple pieces of channel folded up to the same profile as the x-member channel, then cut some holes in them to make 'em look original. The larger ovals were done with 2 holesaw cuts, joined up with a thin cuttting disc, then dressed up with a file.
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__________________
STANCE IS EVERYTHING! ![]() Check out my '36 3-window build here: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=685168 |
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#78 |
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Gisborne, New Zealand
Posts: 186
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Then I cut them to fit in between the rail and the centre of the x-member. The holes should be handy for routing the exhaust.
![]() Spent a bit of time getting a nice tight fit - everything is pretty much getting tacked into place at this stage. I'll go back thru' and final weld when I'm sure it's all gonna' work. ![]() ![]()
__________________
STANCE IS EVERYTHING! ![]() Check out my '36 3-window build here: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=685168 |
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#79 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Solihull, England.
Posts: 2,075
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Neat!
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My build thread: 33 5W Visit my website: www.martsrods.com Try and diagnose my misfire: My Video |
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#80 |
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Miners Rest Victoria Australia
Posts: 1,478
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Excellent work
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Now finish your drinks and get out. Instagram - http://instagram.com/bingas_speedandcustom |
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