Yes, giggle giggle... ...At the risk of this thread getting out of control, I would like some more information from anyone that has used them. Seriously, anyone use rubber dollies? How do you like them? Where and for what do you find the work best for? Anyone make their own out of (fill in type, durometer/hardness here) rubber? I could see how this might be useful. Nothing came up in a search though. I did a search on YouTube for some usage videos and, well, let's say I came up with searches that didn't really give me much technical information. Martin Hammers sells a set and I have been thinking of picking a couple up or maybe just trying to make a couple from some hard rubber that I have that's intended for the stamping/drawing process. Here's the Martin dollies, just so we're clear about what it is we're talking about... http://www.eastwood.com/heel-dolly-rubber-coated.html
Salt flat speed shop just posted on his plymouth build that he uses one. You might want to pm Chris and ask him.
Here's a quote for TP Tools who sells a Martin Door Hammer and Rubber dolly... "Excellent for metal bumping and finishing. Used for auto body work to smooth out dents and dings. Rubber coating absorbs shock to reduce stretching of metal."
So does that mean it's a solid forged steel dolly with just a rubber layer cast around it? Yeah, I saw Chris' blog (http://saltflatsspeedshop.blogspot.com/) and that's what got me thinking more about them. Was hoping to hear from some more folks that have used them. I remember seeing a video once on someone repairing an aluminum fender with one, but for the life of me can't remember where I saw it.
Yes, the Martin one I tried was a coated dolly. Fairly hard and it felt like the rubber was pretty thick.
I have one and I have tried it out once or twice but I prefer metal. Maybe for aluminum or other more fragile metals it would come in handy? (And yes, it's rubber over metal. I think rubber would be too light by itself.)
I've used them. Buddy has a large one for hemming door skins. They work fine, but I prefer lead. Melt some wheel weights in a muffin pan, or other suitable mold. Better than rubber, cheaper, and you can make any size or shape.
These would be very useful in my case because a metal on metal is only going to stretch the metal and exaggerate the bumps and lumps that I have. With the rubber dolly I can provide something to support the area I am working white trying to raise the low areas without stretching the metal further. Or at least in my head that makes sense haha!!!
Man, Ive used the crap out of the one I have. I used it with GREAT results when hammering on dolly on a but welded seem to smooth it out. The rubber on the dolly gives just enough for the weld on the backside without raising it to the top like a solid dolly does. Not sure if thats how im supposed to use it but works for me!!!!
Hey Scoot, I had one in the shape of a toe dolly that was good/o.k. for doing door skins, but not much better than soft pine or 200 m.p.h. tape wrapped around a dolly, used to save a painted surface. Unless you're planning on doing paintless dent repair or metalfinishing a panel without the use of any filler I'd save your money. Today, there are many tools for sale that have little use except lightening your walet, and taking up space in your tool box " Meanwhyle, back aboard The Tainted Pork "
I have been doing body work for 30 years and have had a rubber dolly for 25 of those. Mine is 100% rubber and pretty worthless. It looks nice in my toolbox though. Because of no weight, it bounces too easily when bumping. I bought it to do door skin flanges, but quickly realized it was useless for that. Save your money.
I use a rubber dolly for doors skins at work and it works really good for me sense I never have to use body filler on a new door skin but I guess it depends who you are!
I use a cutoff deadblow hammer head. Heavy, little rebound and easy to hang onto. I use it more than a normal metal dolly. pics here,,,, http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=654139 Not saying it right or wrong, not sure there is such a thing when it comes to metal forming/shaping. Everyone has thier own tricks and tribulations.
Great for metal finishing.Can move the metal around a lot more than with a steel hand weight. my weekly metal work blog www.themetalsurgeon.com.com
Da Tinman, excellent advice on utilizing the cutoff deadblow hammer head. And your work on the 'rose' demonstrates its functionality. As Elvis said, "Thank you very much." I'll lop off a deadblow hammer head tomorrow, before I forget.
I bought a rubber covered dolly cause it was in the clearance bin for $5. I also use a hand sized shot bag as a soft backing .
Thanks a ton for your input, everyone! It's really appreciated! Amazing how 50/50 the replies were. Maybe I'll try cutting up this big ol' round piece of hard urethane to a couple different shapes and just try it. It's here, it's free, and I have no other useful plans for it as of now. It's REAL close to what the hardness of lead would be... but it doesn't have the weight of the lead, which I could definitely see being helpful.
I use the red neoprene dolly from Martin for hammer on dolly with great success, especially for door skins. It doesn't bounce away from the metal so bad, and works good for shrinking metal too. When I got it at the Puyallup swap meet, I forgot it on the rear step bumper of my buddies van. Back home in Seattle. (40 miles) I got out and found it still sitting there. The neoprene, and golf ball dimples on it kept it from falling off. I cringe at the thought of that thing bouncing down the highway...
I've taken large rubber head mallets and formed the head to the configuration I needed and it seamed to work great, but not in all cases!
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