Projects My 64 F100 build...resto-mod...begins...

[Harpo]

here is the start of my resto mod build of my 64 styleside. It will be powered by a 302 ci 5.0 liter Mustang engine, complete with roller cam, Electronic Fuel Injection (EFI) and hopefully either a Borg Warner T-5 or Built C-4 (still deciding)....Here is the beginning of my truck, and its slow adventure from begining to end.
thanks
Ben

[Harpo]

here are a few more shots....

[Harpo]

a few after some sanding and primeing...

[Harpo]

more of same...

[Harpo]

some pictures of what i consider to be the worst part of my project... the rusted bed...

[Mattilac]

Looks good! But don't you mean '65?

[Harpo]

well, it may be, thats what i thought too, but a buddy of mine said its a 64? I was wanting a 65...

[55 dude]

find a later model truck with bed damage and transfer the floor into yours. the vin should be in the glove box.

[OoltewahSpeedShop]

It's a '65. '64 had a straight axle. If you want it REAL low, sub frame it. If not, the DJM Dream Beams work great and drive good. Mid '70's trucks have disk brakes that are a direct bolt on.

Here's my old '66 with beams.

[rod rialto]

I'd say go for the T5, or an AOD. I think you would be more inclined to drive it if it had a trans with overdrive.

[Harpo]

thanks guys, yea that is my plans....this will be a driver...I want it to drive good, handle fair and be dependible.
LOWERING:I think i saw the DJM dream beams on a 1966 resto mod on here...i belive they came from summit racing and they looked good.
BED PANEL:
I ordered new bed corners from a local metal shop today....I called and gave them the measurements, so all I need now is the center section of bed floor...
TRANS:
i am very much leaning towards the T5...since its already a manual transmission truck, and i read about a guy on here that has a modification to adapt a mustang clutch cable/quadrant to use with existing pedals...this sounds like the most sensible way to go for me.
Wiring Harness:
I currently have a NEW wiring harness for a 1970 bronco bumper to bumper that I plan to use including the new style small lited fuses...along with a RJM EFI harness that was custom built to adapt to the 1970 bronco harness, at worst I figure i will need to add some length to the tailight harness, to make up the distance of the longer bed compared to the bronco...
Engine:
currently the engine will be a 302 cu i EFI engine from a 1990 mustang, and use an aftermarket roller cam with hopefully either a good set of GT 40 heads or aftermarket aluminum ones...maybe a performer set from edelbrock....
Intake:
while i only have the stock 1990 model mustang EFI intake, I plan on using an Explorer Upper and Lower which flows a lot more than the stock mustang one (one of these can usely be picked up off ebay for about $200 for both upper and lower)
Exhaust:
exhaust will hopefully be 2 1/2" with three chamber Flowmaster mufflers, and hopefully a custom mustang X-pipe for a unique sound.
Gear:
about a 3:50 or 3:55 gear, I may switch out the rear end to a 8.8" (i know these forward and backwards) but I may keep the 9" just because its what came in the truck....

I have a good direction I want this thing to go in, if I can just stay focused.....money will play a big role in which direction I head but as I go along, some things I will set my mind and make it happen...any suggestions on suspension, brakes, brake lines, brake boosters, etc are welcome...I know late model mustangs, but I DO not know these trucks as well as any of you guys....however, I am very willing to learn.

[shocker998md]

just a thought on the lowering. By the time that you get the beams and get disks set up out of a 70s ford you could have clipped it. Depending on how much you get the clip it may even be cheaper to clip it.

If you look up matts thread on the jag ifs that may work good for you. I plan on dumping my 66 so Im going with a G body clip so that there are alot more lowering parts that are more common. Then you will have big disks in the front, ride alot better then the twin I beam, and go as low as you want to go.

Just my 2cents

[Harpo]

jag ifs, now that sounds interesting...i have a close by junk yard but this guy only deals in chevy/honda stuff, so ...may have to see if he can get me a cheap jag clip...i'll do more searching on here first...

[Harpo]

does anyone know the gauge steel used in the bed floor of the 65 truck? is it 16 or 18?

[302aod]

I have a 64 f100 with straight axle and plan to put a 87 F150 frame under it, with power st and power disc brakes and 302 motor mounts. The frame will have to be shortened to the 114 wheelbase. Stock look, but newer underneath. The cab and bed floors are rusty and plan to weld in the floors out of the 87. The truck sat in a fence row for 15 years, rusty and blown 292.

[Mark T]

Originally Posted by 302aod

I have a 64 f100 with straight axle and plan to put a 87 F150 frame under it, with power st and power disc brakes and 302 motor mounts. The frame will have to be shortened to the 114 wheelbase. Stock look, but newer underneath. The cab and bed floors are rusty and plan to weld in the floors out of the 87. The truck sat in a fence row for 15 years, rusty and blown 292.

Does the '87 have a real independent front suspension or is it a twin I-Beam?

[fauj]

If you want to go with the Jag Front end check the post that Matt2491 did on his. He did an exceptional job on his. Very well documented.

[roosters hot rods]

Looks like a good start..bummer on the bed floor,i have seen some worse than that.Check out my build thread maybe some good info for you..Good luck..

Rooster

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=557871

[A Rodder]

Having owned four trucks from 64 to 66, I really like them.
Twin I beam is independant, maybe just not as cool as the other styles.
I have had two with dropped I beams, the 70s disc brakes and huge sway bars front and rear. With good suspension components, they handle great. They just don't let you go very low.

Looks like a great start!

[F-ONE]

I grew up coonhuntin in a 64. I love these trucks.

I would not subframe that truck. Frankly, I think lowering is a fad, just like billet was in the 90s. I think it kills practicality, especially in a truck. Keeping it stock or close to it will allow you to use F-100, 150 parts all the way up to 1996.
A 96 has more in common with a 65 than it does a 97. Brakes, transmissions, engines, suspensions, springs, bellhousings and many other parts from that 31 year run will fit with little or no modification.

I would consider keeping the 9 inch. Most likely its 3.90 to one which would be a good combo for a 302 with an overdrive transmission. If you want a higher gear, just change the pumpkin
I would consider a late model "92-96 F-150 for the 5 speed, clutch set up, wirring harness, electronics, fuel system, brake system and much more. 67 to 90 model trucks offer a lot too, like mechanical linkages, bell housings and lots of other stuff.
You may want to try to find a better bed if you are not satisfied with yours. These trucks are pretty common up here. Two years ago I saw three at one visit to the Birmingham Pull A Part.
Have you thought about finding a good flareside bed? The same flareside was used from 53 to 79. A good one of those may be easier to find. Then you would have the wood to repair.

[302aod]

The 87 frame is twin I-beam, sway bars front and rear. Haven't seen this frame swap before and I now see why. Every dimension on the 87 frame is different than the 64. I'm not giving up, just more thinking and more work.

[Harpo]

i actually found about a 61 and am in the process of removing it and re-boarding it
where in alabama are you located?
thanks
Ben

[Harpo]

update: and slow progress.
Yesterday I went by the media blaster to review the bed box (floor removed) and the hood. Pictures to follow.
thanks

[fordsbyjay]

You can always use the front end from a 03+ crown victoria. On the later models the cross member unbolts from the car and happens to be the right width for an F150. It lowers the truck some and rides like a dream. Check it out over at FTE. There is a bunch of threads over there on the topic. It is pretty popular with the 70's models but your truck frame should be the same.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/10...questions.html

Here is another option one using a Marauder frame which should be the same as the crown victoria.
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/11...r-chassis.html

[Harpo]

After media blast and epoxy primer, i know its not perfect, however it is now Rust Free

[Harpo]

picking up a new spool of .023 mild steel wire today, so i should have some pieces welded up and pics on here pretty soon.

[Chris F100]

Heres how I did the hood of my 62 (same as yours I believe) with the same leading edge rust out.
After cutting out the rot I used 1/8 rod to form the leading edge. Welded patches to it and then ground it down. Good luck with yours...

[Harpo]

that is some good looking work. Mine doesnt have to be perfect...i like your idea of the rod, i am a long ways away from worrying about the hood at this point, but I definetly will keep your work in the back of my mind, so when i do get to that point, I'll have an idea where to start. before you posted this, I had No idea how to make it look right....
thanks