SLEPE67's 32 5W Build Thread.

[slepe67]

Tried CLR & Naval Jelly in an experiment to see what worked better to remove the last remnants out. Verdict is out. I'm leaning towards Naval Jelly but still have to buy Endzall tomorrow and see how that goes. Too humid to even LOOK at the bare steel. I gotta figure something out QUICK!

Photo 1 is the BEFORE. ("CLR" is CLR, "N.J." is Naval Jelly)
Photo 2 is immediately after wards. I used a rough Scotch Brite pad and scrubbed it in for about 1 minute, then let it sit for 2 more minutes. Thorough rinsing with water.
Photo 3 just shows what it looks like under the tape.
Photo 4 You really can't see in the photos, but it turned GREEN. There is a bit of what looks like oxidation-type residue as well. I'm assuming that everything didnt get rinsed off as it should have.

I'm getting the ENDZALL Rust Inhibitor tomorrow and will try it out on the passenger side.

More to follow.

Anybody have any advice or opinions?



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[slepe67]

Originally Posted by JeffreyJames

Where is this Kevin Lee thread on the rails????


Oh and I bet the shipping on the UAPAC floor/subrail is like $400. There's a east coast distributor so I'm sure they'll take their cut and it'll be around $2k. From what I have heard the Uapac stuff is awesome and everything is fitting really well right now. They are going through a ton of quality control checks from what I've heard. A friend talked to then extensively at SEMA and things are looking up for then project. The floor / subrail unit should be ready in January.

I might have to standby on the Brookville stuff then.

Here's Jeff Norwells's thread. I am a complete moron. Sorry everyone for my ignorance, and most of all, to Jeff Norwell for jumbling things up.


http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...hlight=slepe67

[slepe67]

Spent all day sanding & re-painting somebody elses front end. ( see link below). I learned today today that there is a definate difference in paint quality!! (NOTE: if somebody who has been building cars since 1963 recommends you do something, you may want to LISTEN!)

Here's a shot of some 50+ year old junk I tried to bring back to life. I love the " Prison Made" on the bottom of the MT plate.

The 1950's club plaque of the Pensacola Pushrods was sold to me by the very first Blue Angels Commanders' son. (I'm more of a USAF Thunderbird's man myself. Real aviator wings are SILVER!!!). But cool nonetheless!

Below, you'll also see the rear pan of my car. The right side is after smoothing the sandblasting out with brown scuffing pads on 2" die grinder. Left side is untouched. After another day of smoothing, I'll get the car in epoxy primer and start on the body work. The car is going to be sitting on it's tires after the rears come in and get mounted. Kinda nice seeing things come to fruition. And the space in my garage is getting bigger every day, as parts come off the floor, and onto the car.


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[slepe67]

Not much progress at all lately. Work has been taking up my spare time and weekends...

Got my bigs n littles mounted up. NOTE: for the littles up front, your tire shop may not be able to mount them on your wheels without a cool doo-dad called a "bead blaster". Essentially, it's your standard portable air tank with a valve connected to a 6" tube. They fill the tank to about 150 psi (or so) and connect the tire to the tire machine. When the guy on the machine says GO, the guy with the blaster opens the valve and BLASTS all 150 psi into your tire. Its a safe & smart way to get your bead to set. (I used to use starting fluid & a lighter...unsafe!)

I just painted my front end and decided I wanted chehapy Made in China wishbones up front, instead of the cheapy Made in China hair pins.

It's all pretty & mostly assembled. Once I installed my brakes & steering arms, I noticed the steering arms & rod dont go UNDER the 'bones. If I connect the steering rod to connect the arms, it would go through the 'bones. Hmmm....Did I install them upside down?

I figured this of all things would simply be a bolt-on-and-go deal.

another thing I learned: the cheapy Made in China disc brake kit is from a 1976 Camaro (among others I guess), so if you need parts, that'll be what you ask for at the parts store.


After I get my front end on the car, it will be a ROLLER!

Motor and trans mounts are next. Then...bodywork...

This link is for my reference (in regards to yet an other rust removal techinque).
http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/showt...oval+willys%22

[F&J]

I figured this of all things would simply be a bolt-on-and-go deal.

I am 60. I don't buy catalog parts after hearing so much bad, over many decades. I use old stuff which when using old Ford front end pieces, you can heat/bend/twist them without worry.

Put up some pics of what does not fit right.. somone will get you going again.

I am sanding filler today....all day.... cough...

[nailhead terry]

I hate to be a cry baby but at least you can work on yours. My sorry butt is 900 miles from my 5 window and just blasted and epoxyed it and spread some blue magic on it then the boss said your going to indiana for 4 weeks. So now I can only sit and watch the fun !! I hope you get some sub rails soon and put it together I sure miss my car and my dog don't tell my wife !!

[slepe67]

Originally Posted by F&J

I am 60. I don't buy catalog parts after hearing so much bad, over many decades. I use old stuff which when using old Ford front end pieces, you can heat/bend/twist them without worry.

Put up some pics of what does not fit right.. somone will get you going again.

I am sanding filler today....all day.... cough...

see below

Originally Posted by nailhead terry

I hate to be a cry baby but at least you can work on yours. My sorry butt is 900 miles from my 5 window and just blasted and epoxyed it and spread some blue magic on it then the boss said your going to indiana for 4 weeks. So now I can only sit and watch the fun !! I hope you get some sub rails soon and put it together I sure miss my car and my dog don't tell my wife !!

I cant work on mine either...
It's at my friends shop (see link in my signature) about 40 miles away. He's a hard core, first class chassis guy, does all my welding.

He said I SHOULD just be able to heat them and bend them where I need them to be. I dont recall seeing this problem elsewhere...I guess this is what happens when it takes a guy 3 years to build a car. Preferences change over time. My old hairpins did suck....

I'll have the thing sitting on its tires this satruday. Will take shots of before/after. Hopefully our plan works...

[slepe67]

UGH...
so, I had the hairpins & all bracketry. Sold it for wishbones. They didnt work, so I had to buy...ahem...hairpins.

I'm wondering how all those cars with dropped axles use hairpins up front? My bud said we could massage everything up front and make it all work correctly, but, I'm tired of robbing Peter to pay Paul, so, hairpins it is.

The new Pete & Jakes hairpins set my wallet back a lot, but they are WAY better quality than those guys up in Nebraska. Plus, MADE IN AMERICA.

I think I have a cracked vertebrae (god I'm falling apart lately), but the front end is in the car.

Tomorrow I plan on installing the hairpins and final-welding that chassis up. Amazing how long it takes to do stuff when you CAN'T WELD!

[Dave50]

slepe keep plugging ik its hard but your doing good it will all be worth it soon.

[mctim64]

Don't slow down now. Obstacles are just something that needs to be overcome. You can do it!

[JeffreyJames]

Originally Posted by slepe67

UGH...
so, I had the hairpins & all bracketry. Sold it for wishbones. They didnt work, so I had to buy...ahem...hairpins.

I'm wondering how all those cars with dropped axles use hairpins up front? My bud said we could massage everything up front and make it all work correctly, but, I'm tired of robbing Peter to pay Paul, so, hairpins it is.

What was the problem? Tie rod running into it? You could have sleeved with an oblonged hole so the tie rod passed through depending on why they were not working. There's always options though....

[slepe67]

Tie rod went straight thru the center of the bone. Grabbed an old set of LONG steering arms & heated them up. No worky & even if it did, it woulda looked like crap. Hairpins it is. Might fit the '60s look I'm going for better anyhow.

Getting tired of driving 40 miles to spend 20 minutes working on my car once a month.

Once I get it sitting on all 4's the way it needs to be, I'll drag it home & start bodywork. All in good time (which I'm short on anyways).

Cannot WAIT to show some progress!!!!


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[slepe67]

Oh, yesterday I was googling "32 ford subrails" and came across a pic of my car. Some clown in the UK is trying to scam folks. I started a thread warning potential buyers, and it was deleted. Why?


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[JeffreyJames]

This was what I was talking about. Now I'm not sure I've ever seen a car with these from way back when but it is an option for those that have a similar problem. But since you're on to wishbones you won't have any worries now. Those'll work just great.

I gave up my space at the Iron Lords shop to save money so I can dump that "rent money" on my '33 now and the '32 (if you can call it that) is sitting at my brother's until I get my '35 on the road and can give up a little more space. So basically I know the "pain" of dreaming of your '32 and not being able to go out and just chip away at it if the mood was right. I've actually thought about cutting the car in half through the roof where it's cracking anyways so I can store it easier until I get to it. Not sure if that would be the smartest idea or the stupidest.


Hold tight, it sounds like when you do get to work on it, you're going to come out swinging!!! Can't wait!

[JeffreyJames]

Originally Posted by slepe67

Oh, yesterday I was googling "32 ford subrails" and came across a pic of my car. Some clown in the UK is trying to scam folks. I started a thread warning potential buyers, and it was deleted. Why?


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Noted!!! Have you seen the finished Uapac subrails with the floor all welded in and jigged together? They look awesome!!! However, I think in an act of solidarity I'm going to buy brookville roadster subrails and modify them because they are made in America and I don't need perfect subrails as it's a far from perfect start. At this point if I could just find some Roadster doors I'd almost just go that route since most of it is roadster anyways!!! Sigh....

[Jeff Norwell]

Originally Posted by slepe67

Oh, yesterday I was googling "32 ford subrails" and came across a pic of my car. Some clown in the UK is trying to scam folks. I started a thread warning potential buyers, and it was deleted. Why?


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Slepe..did not see that and did not delete that.

Keep up the good fight!

[Jeff Norwell]

Originally Posted by JeffreyJames

Noted!!! Have you seen the finished Uapac subrails with the floor all welded in and jigged together? They look awesome!!! However, I think in an act of solidarity I'm going to buy brookville roadster subrails and modify them because they are made in America and I don't need perfect subrails as it's a far from perfect start. At this point if I could just find some Roadster doors I'd almost just go that route since most of it is roadster anyways!!! Sigh....

JJ/ has Uapac actually been selling any of these yet?
I have not seen any of the products yet on the market,... but maybe they are available now..dunno

[JeffreyJames]

Originally Posted by Jeff Norwell

JJ/ has Uapac actually been selling any of these yet?
I have not seen any of the products yet on the market,... but maybe they are available now..dunno

Not sure if they're for sale but they were at sema and there's a video of them somewhere. Were suppose to hit the market in January.

[slepe67]

Originally Posted by JeffreyJames

. I've actually thought about cutting the car in half through the roof where it's cracking anyways so I can store it easier until I get to it. Not sure if that would be the smartest idea or the stupidest.

Well, I saw a pretty sweet car that came out of a pile of chunks, so you should be OK.

Originally Posted by JeffreyJames

Noted!!! Have you seen the finished Uapac subrails with the floor all welded in and jigged together? They look awesome!!! However, I think in an act of solidarity I'm going to buy brookville roadster subrails and modify them because they are made in America and I don't need perfect subrails as it's a far from perfect start. At this point if I could just find some Roadster doors I'd almost just go that route since most of it is roadster anyways!!! Sigh....

That's the moral dilemma going on in my head (and wallet) right now. I've read about a hundred Model A-on-deuce-frame threads about how they made subrails for that application. A deuce shuldnt be TOO different??? The devil on my shoulder is leaning towards 3/4 x 1" steel tubing. It's getting channeled anyhow. The angel on my other shoulder says to do it right, and get the damn subrails.

Originally Posted by Jeff Norwell

JJ/ has Uapac actually been selling any of these yet?
I have not seen any of the products yet on the market,... but maybe they are available now..dunno

No data here either. I've been hearing and hearing about them being available "soon", but nothing more than that.

Originally Posted by JeffreyJames

Were suppose to hit the market in January.

Something tells me that if my wallet lets me, I may let you know

[Jeff Norwell]

I wonder is if they having problems getting Ford rights to manufacture(licensing) the parts....or just a horrible economy.....