SLEPE67's 32 5W Build Thread.

[Human Fly]

Originally Posted by slepe67

By looking at it, I MIGHT be able to get away with pie cutting the front door post. Then, cut out about 1/4" to 1/2" of the aft door pillar. Bend the aft section down, and re-weld. It sounds do-able on paper at least.

Yes! Cut the front post on the peak of the radius.....BUT .....you will also need to pie cut/single cut the inner edge in the middle of the window opening or when you take out the section at the b-pillar the upper section will be on an angle to the lower and will look goofy/wrong. Does this make sense??

[brady1929]

congrats, looks good.

[Human Fly]

Originally Posted by F&J

My head hurts

Looking at the pics, the back body height is mocked up wrong.

You need to start with both halves of the body at the correct plane.

You really shouldn't cut the B pillar to fit an incorrect door profile, because the beltline will not be horizontal.

Don't know if I am clear enough, but let's say your neighbor had a mint 5w body shell; then you'd take your wrong door and cut/weld the door to fit a mint orig body.

Just imagine the mess you'd have if you made your wrong door fit his car, by cutting/welding his car to fit your uncut wrong door.

The sedan doors angle up slightly in the window opening, they do not on a 5W, he is cutting the door to look like a 5W............its the right thing to do........well I hope so as I have already done it hahahaha

[F&J]

Originally Posted by Human Fly

The sedan doors angle up slightly in the window opening, they do not on a 5W, he is cutting the door to look like a 5W............its the right thing to do........well I hope so as I have already done it hahahaha

As I read it, he is not cutting the door, he is cutting the front W/S post and the B pillar. That ain't right

The main reason the beltlines don't match the door is because he has the back body and roof rail moved up to fit that wrong door top profile.

[Human Fly]

Originally Posted by F&J

As I read it, he is not cutting the door, he is cutting the front W/S post and the B pillar. That ain't right

The main reason the beltlines don't match the door is because he has the back body and roof rail moved up to fit that wrong door top profile.

Yeah, i think your reading it wrong......its all about the door.
Hell that would be a crazy move to cut the cowl A pillar and body B-pillar hahahhaaha

If you look at the pics again, he has the roof section butted up against the top of the door, so its in about the correct spot but the lower belt line at the b pillar is off, so he need to chop out a little ON THE DOOR b-pillar.

[slepe67]

Yeah....I can see how I pulled a Jedi- mind trick on everyone

I want to cut the doors, not the body

What do you huys honestly think? Get 5W doors or will these work?

For clarity: I THOUGHT they were tudor (two door) doors. Or am i an idiot?

Best to ask first, cut after i get good advice

[slepe67]

Originally Posted by F&J

As I read it, he is not cutting the door, he is cutting the front W/S post and the B pillar. That ain't right

The main reason the beltlines don't match the door is because he has the back body and roof rail moved up to fit that wrong door top profile.

Cutting door only. So how do i line up the ass end? This thing is shaky as a dog shitting peach pits and difficult at best to get it to hold still without a floor

Still, the more i look at it, i dont have any other way to line it up. The doors are touching up top, no gap at all. Im gonna go snap a picture with iphone real quick...See top of this post

[Human Fly]

If its really going to bother you that you have modified sedan doors, wait till you find 5W doors, if not, cut the sedan doors you have. Personally I would run the sedan doors.........hell I already am.
The only real diff apart from the window opening is the width and the inner door skin.

[slepe67]

It doesnt bother me at all to use them. I just want this to be done correctly and as nice as possible. Since the doors are 1/4" shorter than a 5W, its a good thing my body is already cut in half laterally.

I guess the next step is to get all the hinges on, door latches/ hardware, and go from there. Do you have pics of how you did your doors? Am i on the right track in how I THINK I need to cut them??? Thanks for the help gents, it is appreciated! Nobody has steel cars in my area, glass only so i cant learn from anyone!!!!

[Human Fly]

Originally Posted by slepe67

Cutting door only. So how do i line up the ass end? This thing is shaky as a dog shitting peach pits and difficult at best to get it to hold still without a floor

Still, the more i look at it, i dont have any other way to line it up. The doors are touching up top, no gap at all. Im gonna go snap a picture with iphone real quick...

Hang on a second, that door looks different in the window opening!

[F&J]

Human Fly; did you cut the tops off of your doors, or did you only trim the upper skin at the top?

If you did have to lop off the entire top of the sedan door, then that's how I would align the front and back half of the body. Once to door top is out of the way, then you could align the halves with the door, to get the beltlines perfect, and get the lower vertical door gaps perfect.

In the last pic, it looks like both the front and rear roof beams above the door, are bent down?

[Human Fly]

Originally Posted by F&J

Human Fly; did you cut the tops off of your doors, or did you only trim the upper skin at the top?

If you did have to lop off the entire top of the sedan door, then that's how I would align the front and back half of the body. Once to door top is out of the way, then you could align the halves with the door, to get the beltlines perfect, and get the lower vertical door gaps perfect.

In the last pic, it looks like both the front and rear roof beams above the door, are bent down?

No, i pie cut the A pillar section as that height is correct to the cowl. Pie cut the middle of the window opening to flatten the top section out and allow the feature lines to come down parallel in the B pillar section.
If you take the whole top section off to align the B pillar section/feature lines, the A pillar is going to be too short. What your trying to do is take the angle of the window opening out......not drop it down......if that makes sense.

That last pic looks like a 5W door and F&J is correct is stating the roof section looks dropped on that side. Screw in a section of angle iron to the wood to flatten that out and see whats going on.

[slepe67]

[QUOTE=F&J;6879114
In the last pic, it looks like both the front and rear roof beams above the door, are bent down?[/QUOTE]

Originally Posted by Human Fly

That last pic looks like a 5W door and F&J is correct is stating the roof section looks dropped on that side. Screw in a section of angle iron to the wood to flatten that out and see whats going on.

Whew! Thank you both! That's the biggest issue with this body. If I can straighten the roof beams out, that will help things immensely. Ifigured that by putting the doors on, that might have helped things out a lot. Guess it jsut highlighted what was messed up and what the road ahead will lead to.

I was thinking along the same lines as both of you.

Find a good place to cut the door tops off, put (READ:duct tape) thick cardboard (Dick Spadaro's recommendation) around the gaps. This will insure approxiamately 1/8" gap all the way around. Install door with all hinges and hardware. Close door, and align body lines. I definately need to figure out how to raise the ass end up. Cutting the door tops off might help.

After further review, we may be on to something. Thank Gawd I'm not the first person in 80 years to have to figure this out! I love the HAMB!

[Human Fly]

The duct tape idea is a good one, going to do that!
Can you put the two doors you have together and measure them both, as i think the door on the drivers side looks to be a 5W door.

[mctim64]

Nice plan, I'll be watching this one.

[DaddyO's..Deuce]

On the subject of machine turned, I heard you can chuck up a lifter in a drill press. Have never tried it so I don't know if it works, but might be worth a try on a piece of scrap.

[slepe67]

THANKS RYAN FOR THE iPHONE APP!!!! Photos are SO much easier!

Both doors measure 27-1/2" long at the beauty line. They look the same to me????

How can you tell a 5W door by looking at it? The '32 5W doors are 1/4" longer at that measurement.

[slepe67]

Originally Posted by mctim64

Nice plan, I'll be watching this one.

McTim, I'll throw in a 292 Y-block if you come down and help It would be MY honor! We'll wait a month for it to cool down. Too damn hot in my garage.

Originally Posted by DaddyO's..Deuce

On the subject of machine turned, I heard you can chuck up a lifter in a drill press. Have never tried it so I don't know if it works, but might be worth a try on a piece of scrap.

Yeah, there's quite a few threads in here on the topic. The firewall is about 100 miles off my radar scope!

[slepe67]

Posting this for reference, as well as for anyone else who can use it. Since I dont have a CLUE as to what is ahead of me, I decided to look through the TECH Files over at R&C. I now have an idea what I need to do to my doors without trashing them.

A million ways to chop a top...

Rolling Bones chop Poteet's 5W

http://www.streetrodderweb.com/tech/...dow/index.html

http://www.streetrodderweb.com/tech/...top/index.html

Bill Stewart at So-Cal Speed Shop chops a 5W
http://www.rodandcustommagazine.com/...ues/index.html

Bobby Walden at Walden Speed Shop skins a 5W door
http://www.rodandcustommagazine.com/...upe/index.html

[slepe67]

The wood that is in my header section has been sawed along with the metal. Since it's in good shape, could I just have a woodworker repair it, or is there too much structural stress on that piece? MEaning, I'm trying to keep this body as "1932" as possible, and am having separation anxiety when I think about cutting off/out pieces of this 80 year old GOLD!