Update below. I know it's been done a million times, but I just did the swap and took pics in case anyone needs info. The 1940 backing plate hole is too big, and the bolt pattern too wide to bolt directly to the 1932 spindles. I machined rings to fit the inside diameter of the 40 backing plate, and the register on the 32 spindle. Tig welded it in place, flush. Then made 4 plugs to fill the original holes and welded them up. Locate the 32 spindle and transfer punch the new holes, drill, de-burr and mount! I guess the 29 pick-up project is officially under way.
Now that's the right way to put '40 brakes on a '32 spindle. Through the years I've seen many poor attempts to accomplish this modification. Great logical work done right.
Thanks. I've seen some scary stuff as well. Takes a bit of time to do this way, but it's kinda important to get brakes right!
The last of the info needed. You will need to make a spacer for the inner bearing. OD 1.560" ID 1.187" .375" thick. Chamfer the inside of at least one side (red arrow) that goes onto the spindle. Bearing part numbers (Timken): 15250X inner race 15118 inner bearing 09074 outer race 09196 outer bearing 5766 Seal (National) After you install it all, the spindle may be too long to put the hub on all the way. I just cut the end off and deburr the threads. Hope it helps someone!
I'm about to do this soon, I have this set up on my roadster too using original 32 spindles. I was thinking on how to make sure that I didn't rotate the backing plate any when marking the new holes. I had been thinking of using a pin punch to punch two holes that line up to make sure once the ring is welded in and the old holes plugged, that you can line up the backing plate to redrill the new holes. maybe I'm over thinking it too.
You can clock them differently if you wanted to. I have seen where people rotated them back abit to help with brake line clearance. Good tech here....done the right way!
Just a question. i am trying to turn clock back 50+years. when i put juice brakes on 31 spindles i don't remember having to redrill. had a spacer kit and used post war 46-48. would the later not require drilling or is it just CRS? thanx
The bolt pattern is larger by about 3/16" compared to 28-35/6 spindles. You can elongate the existing holes towards the center with a file, die grinder etc. But it's not really how you want to do it. But I'd bet more have been done that way than this way!
Very nicely done badshifter! I thought I was the only one who went to the trouble to weld it all up and redrill. The elongated filed holes always scared me!
. You said the spindle may be too long, could someone elaborate? I am putting a. Chrome set of 32 spindles in my roadster. I have 3 drivers side and one pass and the snouts are different lengths and trying to figure it out why and if it's a issue. At work now but can get measurements when I get home.
Just saw this again. The only issue with the spindle being slightly longer is the hubcap (actual hub cap that goes on the hub, not on your wheels) may hit the threaded end of the spindle.
I don't know for sure but I think I remember that you have to know what you are doing when you chrome suspension parts or they become brittle. As they say, "a little knowledge is dangerous". Can someone help me out here? Charlie Stephens
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/early-ford-mystery-spindle-id.1040041/#post-11776643. Thanks for the info, I started another thread apparently I have a mix of modified spindles but I am able to put a good pair together. Anyone have more I info on chrome brittlement? Seen many chrome suspension pieces but would like to know more if there are dangers.
By the way, Richard at the Early Ford Garage in SoCal has a kit available that solves the 40 backing plates/hubs on a 32 spindle problem. I just bought/installed it. Comes with a ring that mounts the backing plate to the spindle, a bearing spacer, and the proper rear seal for the 40 hub. A nice kit.
This is an old topic, but I didn’t want to start a new one. I have 32-spindles with these rings and they hit the seals in the drums. Can I just get rid of them and what they are for?
Yes that is the original 32 “seal”, if you can believe it. No rubber lip, just a splash guard. Just get a screwdriver behind it and pry it off.
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