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Fitting a Model-A rear crossmember into a '32 frame

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by edwardlloyd, Jul 9, 2011.

  1. edwardlloyd
    Joined: Aug 2, 2003
    Posts: 2,072

    edwardlloyd
    Member
    from Germany

    I thought I'd like to share my experiences fitting a Model-A rear crossmember into a '32 frame. Anyone who has tried this knows that the Model-A rear crossmember certainly isn't plug 'n' play and most just get welded in there. I wanted it to look like Ford had designed it that way and it had to be riveted in just like Henry did it, so here goes:

    Firstly the Model-A rear crossmember is too wide so will need shortening to fit, but before you go and slice the ends off, give a little thought to bending the surplus metal at the ends over to form nice factory looking tabs to rivet it to the frame.

    Next thing to consider is rotating the crossmember 180° so it actually spends the rest of it's life going backwards. This reverses the aging process of the last 80 years. (Na just kidding)
    The Model-A has a straight frame which raises over it's length to the rear. For this reason the Model-A rear crossmember has a slight angle built into it. The '32 frame however has a kickup at the rear and actually goes downhill again by the time the Model-A rear crossmember is mounted. Now you may be using a spring over axle layout like the Model-A or a spring behind axle layout like later cars so exactly where you end up mounting your crossmember depends on a number of factors. But I found that for a spring behind axle layout the crossmember fitted better flipped around.
     

    Attached Files:

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  2. edwardlloyd
    Joined: Aug 2, 2003
    Posts: 2,072

    edwardlloyd
    Member
    from Germany

    The Model-A rear crossmember is too shallow for the 32 rails and the top face of the Model-A rear will not sit parallel to the top of the rails. Many fill this space with a piece of metal and weld it in place. That does the job, and when the body is on no one will see it, but it's not Henry and doesn't look right in my eye. Nor does the Model-A crossmember look right there. It looks a bit too fragile so it needs a workout.

    Here's how you do it: Cut the top free and bend it up keeping a nice curve to it. At the same time add some twist to the top to bring it parallel to the top rail.

    Then add metal.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jul 9, 2011
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  3. edwardlloyd
    Joined: Aug 2, 2003
    Posts: 2,072

    edwardlloyd
    Member
    from Germany

    Once it fits in place you can drill the holes and rivet the crossmember in place. The end result is a rear crossmember which looks like it was designed to be there.

    Ed
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Jul 9, 2011
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  4. edwardlloyd
    Joined: Aug 2, 2003
    Posts: 2,072

    edwardlloyd
    Member
    from Germany

    Worth the effort. A '32 frame with Model-A front and rear crossmembers.

    Ed
     

    Attached Files:

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  5. Mart
    Joined: Mar 3, 2001
    Posts: 4,900

    Mart
    Member

    Nice tech. Edward.

    Mart.
     
  6. 1950ChevySuburban
    Joined: Dec 20, 2006
    Posts: 6,187

    1950ChevySuburban
    Member Emeritus
    from Tucson AZ

    Very nice, looks great!
     
  7. The37Kid
    Joined: Apr 30, 2004
    Posts: 30,743

    The37Kid
    Member

    Nicely done! I plan to use a Model T rear spring and a 26-27 rear crossmember, seeing your photos is a big help. I sent you a PM.
     
  8. Rickybop
    Joined: May 23, 2008
    Posts: 9,665

    Rickybop
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

  9. 3wLarry
    Joined: Mar 11, 2005
    Posts: 12,804

    3wLarry
    Member Emeritus
    from Owasso, Ok

    question...shouldn't flush rivets be used on top of the frame so the body will sit flush on the frame...like Henry did on the stock '32 front crossmember?

    inquirin' minds...
     
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  10. edwardlloyd
    Joined: Aug 2, 2003
    Posts: 2,072

    edwardlloyd
    Member
    from Germany

    Henry did, and I do flush ones on the K-member and front crossmember but as a Model-A body was going on this one it wasn't necessary.

    Ed
     
  11. 117harv
    Joined: Nov 12, 2009
    Posts: 6,589

    117harv
    Member

    I have to ask, did you detail the inside of the crossmember where the filler pieces were added:D


    Stellar work indeed, riveted in instead of welding is how it should be imo. I tend to always take the harder route too, I like the challenge, and the final result is that much more rewarding, it sure looks factory. This thread would have been a great entry for a tech week, again nice work and thanks for posting.
     
    Last edited: Nov 10, 2015
  12. edwardlloyd
    Joined: Aug 2, 2003
    Posts: 2,072

    edwardlloyd
    Member
    from Germany

    Yes inside and out, as I didn't want he Swiss inspectors spotting that the crossmember had been modified, or that it didn't belong there at all ;-)
     
  13. kisam
    Joined: Feb 28, 2005
    Posts: 1,922

    kisam
    Member

    Very impressive work!
     
  14. Jay Yuskaitis
    Joined: Jul 29, 2009
    Posts: 61

    Jay Yuskaitis
    Member

    Set up as "a favorite". Thanks, Jay Y.
     
  15. falcongeorge
    Joined: Aug 26, 2010
    Posts: 18,341

    falcongeorge
    Member
    from BC

    Slick indeed. Nice work, and useful as well.
     
  16. Will Kimble
    Joined: Feb 12, 2007
    Posts: 401

    Will Kimble
    Member

    Bitchin', nice work.
     
  17. You Sir are a Craftsman, very nice.
     
  18. mcbay
    Joined: Aug 20, 2007
    Posts: 512

    mcbay
    Member

    Very Nice! ;) How did you do the front cross member?
     
  19. bubba67
    Joined: Nov 26, 2008
    Posts: 1,842

    bubba67
    Member
    from NJ

    That is one of the best A member installs I've ever seen !
     
  20. edwardlloyd
    Joined: Aug 2, 2003
    Posts: 2,072

    edwardlloyd
    Member
    from Germany

    The front needs a lot of modification too, but I didn't take many photos last time I did it. I'll be doing another in a week or two so I'll post it up then.
     
  21. Great tech Ed !
    Thanks for sharing.
    Looking forward to the sequel.

    your Canadian connection
    Jim
     
  22. hightower611
    Joined: Dec 7, 2009
    Posts: 139

    hightower611
    Member

    I will be waiting to see that one! Great work!
     
  23. Ed, Only wished I had a tenth of your ability. Excellent craftsmanship. Can you tell me where you get the rivets and how they are installed to look like Henry did it himself?
     
  24. Pewsplace
    Joined: Feb 10, 2007
    Posts: 2,795

    Pewsplace
    Member

    I am 70 years old and have been fooling with hot rods most of my life. This is the best installation I have ever seen. Great work!
     
  25. The Engineer
    Joined: Oct 3, 2007
    Posts: 117

    The Engineer
    Member

    Ive just started this cross member install, following it to the letter, awesome work
     
  26. fordf1trucknut
    Joined: Feb 13, 2007
    Posts: 1,175

    fordf1trucknut
    Member

    Great work! It looks really good

    I was originally going to modify my bolt in crossmember in a similar fashion but I have my spring over the axle instead of behind it so the shape would have been odd and put odd bends in the crossmember so I took the easy way out and welded a filler on top at an angle to bolt to the top flange.
     
  27. edwardlloyd
    Joined: Aug 2, 2003
    Posts: 2,072

    edwardlloyd
    Member
    from Germany

  28. edwardlloyd
    Joined: Aug 2, 2003
    Posts: 2,072

    edwardlloyd
    Member
    from Germany

    See my other tech thread. I'm still building it but your questions will be answered there.

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=610718


    I have no particularly special abilities. I buy (or make) the right tools for a job, and I'm patient. That's all.

    Ed ;-)
     
  29. edwardlloyd
    Joined: Aug 2, 2003
    Posts: 2,072

    edwardlloyd
    Member
    from Germany

    I'm doing another one next week, this time placing it a bit further back, to center the wheels in the wheel wells and using a '36 rear axle and 'bones, which do throw the rear crossmember quite a bit further back. Stay tuned to see what happens.

    Ed
     
  30. Noland
    Joined: Oct 16, 2007
    Posts: 1,235

    Noland
    Member

    awesome, Im soon to be building a 32 frame I just need to buy the rails. I planned on using a model A rear crossmember and I really like the way you did it. wonderful work I may have to steal some ideas
     

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