Register now to get rid of these ads!

Header clearance

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 1oldtimer, Jun 1, 2011.

  1. I'm not a big header user but this FE has left me almost no choice. So the question is how close is too close, say to a power steering box, power steering fittings and a starter. I would think the ford starter can take a little more heat then it sbc counterpart because of the remote solenoid. On my '47 the fentons are real close to the manual box with no ill effects, but they're cast and it's manual steering. I have maybe a 1/16" - 1/8" above the starter to the header, maybe 1" - 1 1/4" from the header to the steering box and about 2" from the header to the 90 deg metal fittings for the p/s lines.

    drivers side....
     

    Attached Files:

  2. passenger side..............
     

    Attached Files:

  3. TomP64
    Joined: Dec 10, 2008
    Posts: 429

    TomP64
    Member
    from Vancouver

    That won't be a problem, except maybe getting the power steering hoses in there. The starter isn't a big deal since the heat is mostly above it. You could maybe make a heat shield.
     
  4. I was thinking of a shield but it's so close i didn't want it to rattle...... maybe a starter wrap. the p/s fittings are going to be 90 deg metal jic fittings and will be aimed back towards the firewall.

    I need to get the fittings on there, It might be as close as a 1/2" to the top of the fittings.

    So I guess the one main question is how close can the metal fittings of the power steering be to the bottom of the header tube.
     

  5. JeffB2
    Joined: Dec 18, 2006
    Posts: 9,481

    JeffB2
    Member
    from Phoenix,AZ

    Last edited: Jun 1, 2011
  6. mgtstumpy
    Joined: Jul 20, 2006
    Posts: 9,214

    mgtstumpy
    Member

    I know when I converted my 390BBF Fairlane to RHD I had NO ROOM on RHS. These Fords weren't designed and built RHD with FE's; we only received poverty pack 4 door sedans and wagons as well as 2 door utes (Ranchero's) with 6 cylinders, and 289 and 302 V8's. OEM FE exhaust manifolds weren't going to fit under any circumstances so I had Tri-Y's made. LH side was a breeze, nothing there and no steering to worry about. There was RHD brake booster on other side of firewall. Wish I had as much room as you to play with. :D
    Still on RHS there was no room at all with starter, steering box, spring tower, heads, cross member and power steering ram. I had 1/2" maximum clearance to everything and I drove the doors off it for 12yrs.
     

    Attached Files:

  7. gsport
    Joined: Jul 16, 2009
    Posts: 677

    gsport
    Member

    also if you have the room, maybe wrapping the headers is an option...
     
  8. Verminator
    Joined: Mar 27, 2007
    Posts: 813

    Verminator
    Member

    I had FPA chrome Tri- Y headers in my 57 custom 300 with a 428 c6. Headers were practically on top of the starter. With 425 hp, it was hard starting when hot even with a hi- torgue starter -- I used the heat wrap on the starter and problem was cured.
    With your P/S lines that close, I would at least run one of the P/S loop coolers that the big Fords had. You don't want to deal with early p/s seal failure from too much heat.
     
  9. bump for daytime group.
     
  10. spot
    Joined: Jun 10, 2009
    Posts: 212

    spot
    Member
    from usa

  11. I had to do this on my OT '69 Cougar. Starter looks a little tight. As someone else said, there are mini's available for the big blocks.
     
  12. without having the mini starters in hand, it looks like the mini is just about as big with the solenoid.......plus the solenoid looks like it will be pointed a the header. I'll look into the line wrap, another reason I should have converted it back to stock steering.
     
  13. put the p/s fittings on and the 90 deg fittings and there's no way for the header to fit, i think if i modify the last tube and come straight in it might work.
     

    Attached Files:

  14. looking into the starter wrap and the p/s line wrap.
     
  15. Ok, cut the last tube off, mock it up at a different angle and chopped the p/s fittings. I have about 1" - 1 1/4" clearance between the header tube and the return fitting now. I think I'll be O.K with some longer tube fittings, hose heat cover, bend in the collector and MAYBE a small cooler? (not much room for this).
     

    Attached Files:

  16. gary terhaar
    Joined: Jul 23, 2007
    Posts: 656

    gary terhaar
    Member
    from oakdale ny

    Not to get away from your problem ,what p/s box did you use.I just got through a simular problem and i ended up cutting the header and used a donut to get the tight turn from the flange.They are available at any exhaust tubing suplier.
    Just watch your clearance to the flange ,you still need room to get the bolts in,ask me how i know.Ugh
     
  17. The 1-1.5" at the steering box shouldn't cause any issues from my experience. Get the sleeve type wrap for your lines and they should be OK as well. FE starters don't seem to like heat, so i think you will have a problem there. Get the starter wrap that slips around the entire starter and that should help. I know a couple of guys with FE powered trucks that have to replace the starter once every year or so do to the headers killing them without a wrap.
     
  18. Thanks, that's what I was thinking. If there's enough room for a starter wrap it's going on, at least I can get the starter out pretty easy just in case :D. I still might try to heat the tubes and bend the collector in a little away from the end of the box. I ordered some mandrel bends from cone industries.



    It's the toyota box conversion, It was on the truck when I bought it. I had to fix the pump, box and column after finding problems, in hindsight I should have just put the stock f100 box/column back in.....but I didn't foresee the header dilemma. I bought some Sanderson Headers uncoated just so I could modify them and fix any problems they might have before I get them coated.



    another question is where to get them coated........embee, jet hot, CAE Performance in pomona (where I bought the headers from)..................
     
    Last edited: Jun 11, 2011
  19. storm king
    Joined: Oct 16, 2007
    Posts: 1,989

    storm king
    Member

    Taylor makes a nice starter wrap. On my V8 mini truck, I went to a mini starter (they are smaller) and wrapped the header on the starter side.
    If you don't use headers much(!?) May I suggest Stage 8 locking header bolts. Start the engine, warm to operation temp one time, let it cool, retighten, add the lock rings, and forget about ever having leaking headers or blown header gaskets ever again. They're awesome...
     
  20. I've seen the stage 8 bolts but haven't use them. everytime in the past I've used headers they end up leaking or breaking (I use cheap headers :)), so tend to stick with manifolds.
     
    Last edited: Jun 27, 2011
  21. modifying the last tube........I think I might be done as a sawzall is all I have to get that close to the bend. I'll see if Jimmy wants to take a whack at it.....someone needs to tig it anyway, my torch skills blow :D.
     

    Attached Files:

  22. Ok, no more problem.......on to the next.
    Thanks to Jimmy @ CCHR.
     

    Attached Files:

  23. handyandy289
    Joined: Sep 19, 2010
    Posts: 354

    handyandy289
    Member
    from Georgia

    Had a similar problem with a 428 CJ. Had to replace starters regularly. Used to carry jugs of water to cool starter when hot. Installed an aluminum wrap around header tube next to starter and no more problems.
     
  24. I put a starter wrap on it so we'll see how it holds up. The header is touching the wrap so I'll see what gives first, the wrap or the starter :).
     
  25. coated.
     

    Attached Files:

  26. tommyd
    Joined: Dec 10, 2010
    Posts: 11,942

    tommyd
    Member
    from South Indy

    That FE looks good in there. All FE's are tight, wouldn't look right if you had plenty of room to work with. Extra effort noted.:D
     
  27. evobuilder
    Joined: Aug 27, 2007
    Posts: 432

    evobuilder
    Member

    just got my headers for my 56 F100. They told me to order the FF427 headers for my 390 in my 56 F100.

    I have not pulled off the factory cast manifolds yet, but I am not sure how the Sanderson headers will clear the starter and the motor mount bracket. The only way to know for sure is to just do it, but from eyeballing.... I just can't see how they will fit. We'll see this weekend. Here's hoping!
     
  28. mammyjammer
    Joined: May 23, 2009
    Posts: 511

    mammyjammer
    Member
    from Area 51

    I have nothing to add, but I now know that I will order raw headers for my 58/ 428 project and get them coated after the sawzall work is done!!!!
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.