as i work on finishing all the last details before i blow the car apart for paint. My original plan was to run a line lock for a parking brake. As i thought more about it that was not going to work for me. Truck has jaguar rear with wilwood calipers. going for the easy way out i order wilwood spot mechanical calipers. When i got them they looked like they would work. put them up to the rear and first thing i see is there is no way to get the cable to them since the gas tank is right in front of the rear. Look under the bench and see a nice chunk of 6061 aluminum. figured i could make new ones but have the lever come out 90 degrees from where it was and the cables will have a clear shot.
I'd like to do the same thing... I think I can find the aluminum, just gotta find the talent. Nice job
Fuckin wacked. You should change thread title so people see this shit. "Homemade Mechanical E-Brake Calipers"
more parts for e-brake set up. every pivot is on hardened shoulder bolts and bronze bushings. the pivot links are stainless heim joints welded together drilled and polished. cut up a motorcycle clutch cable and made new stainless ends.
If the rest of the truck turns out as nice as the park brake system it is going to be something else indeed.
Really nice work, but you could have used this caliper. which is pretty close to what you made. I used a mechanical caliper made for pocket bikes on the driveshaft brake I made for my T roadster. It is pretty much the same as the caliper I showed, just smaller. http://shakyparts.com/11125_heavy_duty_disc_brake_caliper_with_pads.html
Not to rain on your thread but I have never seen those type E-Brake calipers work very well if at all. In Washington the staters will ask you to put it in gear and put on the E-Barke, if it does not hold back to the drawing board. The longer your levers, the bigger dia. the rotor the better the hold will be. Nice work by the way!
We do something like that for our MGB rear stuff - not as pretty but it works. MGB's have this goofy center pull setup that does not allow much else...
The one I have on the driveshaft works pretty well. A couple of times I have not released it and stalled the motor when I let out the clutch. I think they work better on the drive shaft because you don't have the reduction of the rear end.
I bought a V8 Corvair with front discs on the rear. No driveshaft, no room at the rears, so I put a drifting brake in the line to the rear. Because it's not legal in this state I enclosed the brake except for the handle. I was surprised how well the thing works to be honest. There's a cheesy ratchet on the thing to hold it in place, and it does hold pressure for a long while. Yeah it's illegal but it's a hell of a lot better than what comes on new cars.
I am not so sure about that. Light aircraft have those hydraulic lock style holding brakes, but few of the ones in our flying club work. But you certainly will not convince me they work better than a properly functioning drum-in-hat parking setup found in most new cars.
i copied the wilwood set up that is the same as that but i moved the arm 90 degrees for make it all fit where i needed it to be.
Very cool Slag! How do you fillet the edges? Esspecially where it meets the face of the cylindrical extrusion?
next battle was to make a nice handle. picked up the catalog and ordered one. 3/4 .080 wall 316 stainless tube 3/4 316 round bar .070 sheet 3/16 x 1 bar stock. got the handle ends welded on and blended in. had to go back and weld them a few times to get the nice radius. turned the button on the lathe and realized i did not order a spring for the button.
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