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#41 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: CT
Posts: 1,185
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Quote:
Save your self the hasstle and have speedway do it for 80$ |
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#42 |
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Old School HAMBer
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Aurora, Colorado
Posts: 2,804
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I did buy that 32 cowl. Kinda rough, but it will be good for parts.
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#43 |
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Grenade Inspector
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Phila., PA
Posts: 242
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Carl5Coupe, how do you do it? My wife just walks in the garage, smiles, shakes her head and walks out.
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#44 |
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Grenade Inspector
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Buford Ga
Posts: 392
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I'm running drums on the rear, the rear I bought today has just about new breaks on it and the drums are in great shape. I'm thinking that all I have to do is hook up the break lines and go, so I'm good there. I bought a proportioning valve to help with the pressure between the front and rear. I can run the break lines after I build the X bracing on the frame and mount the master cylinder. Here we gooooo and the swamp man says!!
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#45 |
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Grenade Inspector
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Buford Ga
Posts: 392
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I hope that I don't need anything but glass on my 31, I have a glass guy at work that will be buying my glass from and he thinks has a supplier for rubber. Does anybody know where to get the windshield and side glass rubber?
As for the wife, I met her when she was putting air shocks on her Bonneville back in the day. All I had to do was hand her the tools. She is the best. Carl |
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#46 | |
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Old School HAMBer
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Aurora, Colorado
Posts: 2,804
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#47 | |
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Grenade Inspector
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Buford Ga
Posts: 392
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Quote:
I will be making an order with Speedway this week and I will get the valves on order. I found that the Vega steering box need the pitman arm replaced. The stock one won't work, I'm also going to get a the drag link. Things are looking better. |
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#48 |
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Grenade Inspector
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Buford Ga
Posts: 392
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I twisted my back last Sunday so work has been slow this week. I put in the new rear I had to move the spring plates to align with the springs, I tacked the rear in place but will need to be adjusted after the motor is in. I also painted the front rims and mounted the tires. I hope to mock up the motor again this week after I paint it. The motor will need a rebuild I'm sure but for now I'm going to clean it up, put it in and see how things fit.
I moved up the motor mounts to make some room for the steering box. I hope its not to high. Can it be to high, if so is there a height that I should be looking for? I have a set of 10X15 rims but it seems that tires are expensive. I might go back with 8" rims just to help the cost. Any input on tires would be a help. ![]() ![]()
Last edited by Carl5Coupe; 01-30-2011 at 06:46 PM. |
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#49 |
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Old School HAMBer
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: GA
Posts: 5,783
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It's looking good Carl, Can't wait to see you burning some rubber
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#50 |
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Plymouth, MA Americas home town
Posts: 472
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I'm not to fond of IFS on fenderless cars. That said , I don't think my Chevy came out too bad. My 1st build.
Keep up the good work. I have subscribed. FYI I am now working on stitching up my interior.
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BUY AMERICAN MADE KEEP AMERICANS WORKING |
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#51 |
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Alliance Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Cedar Park, TX
Posts: 149
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Looks good, for the windshield and side glass rubber, you might try I&I Reproduction, they have a bunch of stuff for Chevy's from 29 to 54.
They are in California, 562-531-8117 www.iandireproduction.com Keep the pictures coming. |
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#52 | |
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Grenade Inspector
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Buford Ga
Posts: 392
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Quote:
I like the pictures, Your ride looks great. I was checking out the stearing column install. I have a full size tilt column I was thinking of installing but some one told me to use a front wheel drive column since it is shorter. not sure what to do.
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#53 | |
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Grenade Inspector
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Buford Ga
Posts: 392
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Quote:
Carl |
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#54 |
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Plymouth, MA Americas home town
Posts: 472
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My column is out of a Buick. 70's vimtage. Can't get much fiuller size then that. All depends on the angle you want and clearences.I could have dropped mine another 1". I did use 2 knuckles in the linkage.
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BUY AMERICAN MADE KEEP AMERICANS WORKING Last edited by CapeCodBob; 01-30-2011 at 07:56 PM. Reason: add pic |
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#55 |
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Plymouth, MA Americas home town
Posts: 472
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Carl, I have stacks of Chevy links to suppliers if u need some.
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BUY AMERICAN MADE KEEP AMERICANS WORKING |
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#56 |
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Grenade Inspector
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Phila., PA
Posts: 242
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Looking good Carl. Bob, I might be able to use some of those supplier links if you don't mind.
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#57 |
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Member
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Plymouth, MA Americas home town
Posts: 472
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http://www.stovebolt.com/
http://1931chevrolet.com/suppliers.htm http://www.vintageandclassicreproduc.../Chevrolet.htm http://www.chevywood.com/ http://www.20schevyparts.com/ http://www.iandireproduction.com/ http://www.obschevy.com/ http://www.rockvalleyantiqueautoparts.com/ndex.htm http://www.smoothiefabrication.com/ http://www.alangrovecomponents.com/
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BUY AMERICAN MADE KEEP AMERICANS WORKING |
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#58 |
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Grenade Inspector
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Phila., PA
Posts: 242
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Thanks, Bob! that was quick. Jim
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#59 |
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Blue Earth MN USA
Posts: 935
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Looking good!It's got 1/8" metal for the floor? Thats got to weigh a ton!
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#60 |
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Grenade Inspector
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Buford Ga
Posts: 392
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