HVLP Turbine Paint Systems

[smokey3550]

I used one a couple of years ago, belongs to my dad. He had been bragging on it. I painted a pickup cab, doors, and front end with acrylic enam. It worked great, it heats the air so the paint dries a little faster, you usually need faster reducer. I would definately recommend it. I am a prof painter ( cars) for over 20 yrs.

[hotrodjohnny77]

Cant beat the turbine gun once you learn it.

[TxF100]

Wow thanks for all the answers.

I was originally looking at the TP HVLP Turbine because of all the moisture here in the Houston area and there being no water in the lines. Also, TP built the parts to work together as a system, and I had heard a few good things about HVLP as a whole.

Now I"m convinced this is a good idea. Thanks again and I will post the results.

[Kona Cruisers]

why dont you look into drying your air if you all ready have a good compressor. you can pick up good (IR or equivalent) used air dryer (refrigerated) off ebay for 2-300 dollars.

or just get a good multi stage ( water separator, Desiccant dryer, desiccant particulate filter) in the same price range.

two...... how many of the big time painter have you seen use a turbine system?????


if your stuck on them... go with sam. he's a good guy!

[american opel]

i have all of the above!!!huge comp.air dryer, large desiccant filter,oil&water filter for my polyurea spray riggs.water and poly dont mix!!the air dryer was $300 used des.was over 300 pluse the bags are $80 excetera.even with all this there is still some moisture in the air.its way better than just a compressor but for the diy guy why buy and have to store all this just to paint acouple of cars?everyone has there own opp.on what works the best for them but in my opp.for the money and ease of use and storage the turbine is the way to go.

[american opel]

ps.i primed,flaked,and cleared my car with the same tip!!!!try to do that with a reg.hvlp gun!!

[yblock292]

Originally Posted by Bored&Stroked

Why not just a decent HVLP gun? Is it that you don't have a compressor? I recently picked up a DeVILBLISS Finishline gun with a couple tips for about the same price. I'm old school - came from the Bink's #7 days . . . anyway, shot some HOC KP2 primer through it with a 1.8 tip - sprays really nice. I also have a high-end Sata RP gun that I have not used as of yet.

If you're looking for HVLP (and you have an air compressor), there are quite a few options in the medium cost world. Given what I saw of the Finishline gun (I'll use it for just primer, but it would shoot a car fine) -- one can pickup a decent gun for about $150 and be happy with it.

Example for a used Sata 2000 RP - on the Bay:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Sata-...motiveQ5fTools

What do others think?

had my pair of binks model 7's for about 35 years, still use'um, just cant teach an old dog new tricks

[johnod]

I've never painted period. How difficult would it be for me to learn how to use one of these? Any ideas?

[mbmopar]

Originally Posted by johnod

I've never painted period. How difficult would it be for me to learn how to use one of these? Any ideas?

I was thinking the same thing myself, and if I was going to buy a couple HVLP guns for x dollars, or step up a bit and go for a turbine.....

I hope to do the frame and cab/box on my 55 Dodge truck next year...plus other various bits and peices

[johnod]

Originally Posted by mbmopar

I was thinking the same thing myself, and if I was going to buy a couple HVLP guns for x dollars, or step up a bit and go for a turbine.....

I hope to do the frame and cab/box on my 55 Dodge truck next year...plus other various bits and peices

Since we're parctically neighbours we can split the cost of one.

[petew]

I have a set up from American Turbine. I have painted a couple of cars with it using basecoat / clearcoat and single stage paint. The results have been fantasitc.
I bought a high quality gravity feed gun and a selection of tips which allow me to shoot almost anything.
The great thing about these systems is that they shoot warm, dry air. You never get a fisheye out of them and you can paint wherever you have 110 volts. Also much less overspray.

[Rick Sis]

Has anyone noticed that all of the professional painters on the HAMB haven't jumped in with an endorsement for this?

I have quite a bit of experience with turbine systems but only using water base varnishes for furniture/cabinetry and adhesives. I have never seen anyone shoot an automotive finish with one, and I personally wouldn't try it without first having a thorough demonstration. I would say that I can't imagine being able to spray metallics with these, but again, I have never tried it nor seen it done.

I thought that the turbine systems were the greatest thing since ice cream for wood finishes. We could shoot water base polyurethane straight from the can and it worked VERY well. These things work on a very low pressure and very high volume of air. So, you can shoot much thicker material quite efficiently. The thicker the material you can spray, the more you can lay on without running, it's much faster with less over spray/waste.

BUT, these systems are set up to spray a much different viscosity than the auto finishes are formulated for. I may be behind the times, but I'm not aware of any auto paint manufacturer covering turbine systems in their tech sheets, reducer/catalyst formulas, etc.

Anyway, I would start research on this by first contacting a tech rep. for the manufacturer of the paint you plan to use.

[lowelife]

Originally Posted by Rick Sis

Has anyone noticed that all of the professional painters on the HAMB haven't jumped in with an endorsement for this?

I have quite a bit of experience with turbine systems but only using water base varnishes for furniture/cabinetry and adhesives. I have never seen anyone shoot an automotive finish with one, and I personally wouldn't try it without first having a thorough demonstration. I would say that I can't imagine being able to spray metallics with these, but again, I have never tried it nor seen it done.

I thought that the turbine systems were the greatest thing since ice cream for wood finishes. We could shoot water base polyurethane straight from the can and it worked VERY well. These things work on a very low pressure and very high volume of air. So, you can shoot much thicker material quite efficiently. The thicker the material you can spray, the more you can lay on without running, it's much faster with less over spray/waste.

BUT, these systems are set up to spray a much different viscosity than the auto finishes are formulated for. I may be behind the times, but I'm not aware of any auto paint manufacturer covering turbine systems in their tech sheets, reducer/catalyst formulas, etc.

Anyway, I would start research on this by first contacting a tech rep. for the manufacturer of the paint you plan to use.

Thats kinda what I was thinking...

[petew]

I have sprayed Dupont automotive paint with mine with zero problems and great results, you just need to use a little slower acting hardener to offset the warm air that these systems put out.
I know it's tough to teach old dogs new tricks but these systems work very well. Not that body shops will convert to this but for the "home painter" they are great.
No issues with water or oil in the air, no filters to change.

[american opel]

Originally Posted by Rick Sis

Has anyone noticed that all of the professional painters on the HAMB haven't jumped in with an endorsement for this?

I have quite a bit of experience with turbine systems but only using water base varnishes for furniture/cabinetry and adhesives. I have never seen anyone shoot an automotive finish with one, and I personally wouldn't try it without first having a thorough demonstration. I would say that I can't imagine being able to spray metallics with these, but again, I have never tried it nor seen it done.

I thought that the turbine systems were the greatest thing since ice cream for wood finishes. We could shoot water base polyurethane straight from the can and it worked VERY well. These things work on a very low pressure and very high volume of air. So, you can shoot much thicker material quite efficiently. The thicker the material you can spray, the more you can lay on without running, it's much faster with less over spray/waste.

BUT, these systems are set up to spray a much different viscosity than the auto finishes are formulated for. I may be behind the times, but I'm not aware of any auto paint manufacturer covering turbine systems in their tech sheets, reducer/catalyst formulas, etc.

Anyway, I would start research on this by first contacting a tech rep. for the manufacturer of the paint you plan to use.

as i said earlier i flaked my car with mine.yes the flake was .004 but the crushed glass i put in on the last coat was .050.bass boat flake is .025.i have painted many cars,motorcycles,campers,exc.with mine without a problem.the thing thats also nice about them the cup is pressureised.so you can spray thicker materials.i thinn my auto paint with the rec.amount of thinner/reducer and adjust the fan,air and paint volume acordingly.

[Stevie G]

I bought mine while I was in Florida in an effort to beat the humidity.
I love it. It shoots Flake and Polychrome just fine. I've also shot with a newer "Conventional" HVLP and the difference in over spray is huge.
As for Old School painters not wanting to use them, I shot my first car in 1978, and as for teaching an old dog new tricks...how many professional painters do you know who use a forced air breathing system? I see those "Professionals on TV" shooting 2K epoxy with a plain old respirator. Guys, that stuff will kill you.

[shock]

I've used a Fuji system for years, painted several cars with it with good results.

Low mess with very little overspray.

[stealthcruiser]

Originally Posted by Stevie G

I bought mine while I was in Florida in an effort to beat the humidity.
I love it. It shoots Flake and Polychrome just fine. I've also shot with a newer "Conventional" HVLP and the difference in over spray is huge.
As for Old School painters not wanting to use them, I shot my first car in 1978, and as for teaching an old dog new tricks...how many professional painters do you know who use a forced air breathing system? I see those "Professionals on TV" shooting 2K epoxy with a plain old respirator. Guys, that stuff will kill you.

When did you crank it up last?????????

[herbet99]

Originally Posted by 32v

been useing one for years and love it no more fish eys or moisture

32V... that porsche looks pretty nice. What type of turbine system did you use and what type of paint?

Thanks.

[johnod]

Has anyone used this with water based paint?
How did that work out?