Early Ford Banjo Rear End Rebuild

[tdog]

Originally Posted by zgears

maybe im way off but. considering the amount of work, is it that much more time/money to just go with a quickchange center?

I think you would be looking at just a little more time for set up and a lot more money.

If your already had the banjo rearend and you wanted to rebuild it with a new gear set and bearings you could possible spend around $800. (If you provide all the labor of the rebuild)

If you wanted to throw a quick change in it I think they are around $1200 to $1500? not sure if they come with a gear set?

Also I think on a 32 you may need to notch the stock gas tank to make room to clear the rear section of the quick change?

If you tearing apart a banjo. Possibly because its a leaker or you have a set of different gears (Different ratio) you want to change out. Possibly your bearings may be good and all you would be out is a gasket set.

[jeffh355]

Not meaning to high jack the thread, but good place to insert question for the group. My banjo has 140W in it and VERY small annoying leak where the axle housing meets the center housing (a couple drops a week on the floor). Would switching to 600W stop that?

[392_hemi]

No such thing as 600W. Stuff sold as 600W today is not the same as back in the day. If it's leaking with 140W, it's probably going to leak no matter what you put in it.

[greasemunkee]

This thread is outstanding! This is exactly what I've been looking for. Thanks for posting, and to those who shared their knowledge on this one. Will be doing a banjo here in the next few weeks, and this will help out a lot.
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[howco]

Tdog
thanks for writing this 'book' , it is a saver, I will need to go into my 37 Ford truck some day....very useful.

[tdog]

Originally Posted by 392_hemi

No such thing as 600W. Stuff sold as 600W today is not the same as back in the day. If it's leaking with 140W, it's probably going to leak no matter what you put in it.

Yea I am not sure about that 600w oil he bought? He was sold on it though and dumped it in. My dad did say it appeared to be a little thicker then the 140. But it may be his imagination getting the better of him. He is getting up in age LOL. Either way this maybe the reason all the bearing preload specs from the old build instructions from the vintage manuals seem to be less then todays specs. I think the reason would be the 600w of yesteryear vrs the 140w of today. I would think the thick oil back in the day would require less pre load on the bearings. And todays bearings would require more preload due to the lighter oils used today. In this article I matched "newer" standard of rearend preloads matching what is used in the 9" and 8.8" set ups. Which in my opinion would go with the lighter oils of today. Of course this is just an opinion. I m no chemist just an office guy who did not want to pay someone else to work on my shit.

[tdog]

Originally Posted by howco

Tdog
thanks for writing this 'book' , it is a saver, I will need to go into my 37 Ford truck some day....very useful.

Howco and greesemonkey, I am glad you guys found this usefull. I remember when I open up my first banjo I was lost at first. But when you break it down they are not that tuff. They just take time. Good luck on your rebuilds. Let me know if you have any questions and I will help if I can.

[Chris Casny]

Man, just what I was looking for since I'm gonna rebuild my banjo tomorrow.

Moderators: Please, put this thread in the TECH section!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[zgears]

Originally Posted by chris casny

moderators: Please, put this thread in the tech section!!!!!!!!!!!!!

x2 ..........................

[tdog]

Here it is installed in the car. He has been running it for a couple months now and loving it. Been on some 3 hours road trips with it and all over town. Drives it weekly.