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Body damage, how would you attack this?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Von Rigg Fink, Feb 2, 2010.

  1. Von Rigg Fink
    Joined: Jun 11, 2007
    Posts: 13,404

    Von Rigg Fink
    Member
    from Garage

    If your back panel was like this, would you beat on it and try to make it submit to getting it close? and than add body filler to hide what you cant get out? or (also im a novice at metal work) and it looks a bit worse in person..it looks like the previous owner put his tools behind the seat back and they continuously beat the shit out of the back of the sedan.

    [​IMG]

    If you have a rear 28 tudor lower panel that isnt dented or in too bad a shape , would you cut out the one pictured above and put in 18" of lower panel from the good back panel you have laying around?
     
  2. LarzBahrs
    Joined: Apr 11, 2009
    Posts: 759

    LarzBahrs
    Member
    from Sacramento

    I say beat it out, practice makes perfect.
     
  3. johnboy13
    Joined: May 1, 2007
    Posts: 1,070

    johnboy13
    Member

    I'd try to beat it out too. It's not really that bad. Take your time. There's as much chance of you warping the heck out of the panel welding the new one in. Then you have a lot more work to do.
     
  4. steveo3002
    Joined: Apr 4, 2009
    Posts: 227

    steveo3002
    Member
    from england

    someone thats got skills should get that nice enough

    thing is if youre a newbie you can make it worse , maybe theres a local hamber that could offer some help?
     

  5. LOWBLAZERO1
    Joined: Aug 3, 2009
    Posts: 435

    LOWBLAZERO1
    Member

    i say try to beat it out, worst case scenario is you screw it up and have to replace the lower section. which you are thinking about doing anyway, its a good chance for learning experience.
     
  6. Von Rigg Fink
    Joined: Jun 11, 2007
    Posts: 13,404

    Von Rigg Fink
    Member
    from Garage


    i would only have to weld it across the top..the sides , and bottom would still bolt in as originals do..

    i guess i could practice beating on it, i just know it isnt going to come out "flat" like it should be, and there will be body mud used to make it look right, where as with stitching this other lower panel in it will not have any except where the seam would be..

    tit for tat..proably the same amount of work..but i get the reason for trying to get the original panel beat into submission..i just dont think its going to behave too well..
    the picture doesnt really show how fucked up it is..its fucked up..from about 20 inches up from the bottom its riddled with dents and kinks, a nice rust hole or 2, and an oil can at about mid panel
     
  7. the-rodster
    Joined: Jul 2, 2003
    Posts: 6,945

    the-rodster
    Member

    I wouldn't cut that out, I'd be patient with a hammer/dolly and possibly apply some heat to the stretched metal to shrink it back.
     
  8. Retro Jim
    Joined: May 27, 2007
    Posts: 3,854

    Retro Jim
    Member

    Just take you time and hammer it back in place . Don't beat on it with a heavy hammer , just take your time . It will come back to the original form if you take your time ! Help it back in place , don't make it go back in place . Get what I am saying ? Take your time !!!

    RetroJim
     
  9. Von Rigg Fink
    Joined: Jun 11, 2007
    Posts: 13,404

    Von Rigg Fink
    Member
    from Garage

    well there must be some good reason why 99% of the people say to try and make the original panel serviceable..

    Ive had other body guys tell me the same thing, most of them HAMBers, and 2 other guys that do this sort of shit for a living.

    I want to learn, but dont feel like fucking this panel up worse to learn, than have to resort to cutting in a new panel, or making the job that much harder on the experianced body guy to iron out what i end up doing to it.

    I got a set of Body Hammers, guess it wont hurt to play a little to see what happens
     
  10. Most of us have more time the money..I say work it until you get it right. Win Win situation, you gain the experience/reward of doing it yourself, your car gets repaired. lots of information on body repair available from many sources. Everyone was a novice at what they do, before they became experienced at it.
     
  11. Von Rigg Fink
    Joined: Jun 11, 2007
    Posts: 13,404

    Von Rigg Fink
    Member
    from Garage

    yeah i fall into the catagory of no time and no money...lol

    but i guess the dust collecting on those body hammers aint doing them any good either
     
  12. Ryan
    Joined: Jan 2, 1995
    Posts: 21,674

    Ryan
    ADMINISTRATOR
    Staff Member

    Take this for what it is worth... cuz I'm an idiot... But I had a '29 sedan with a rear panel that looked exactly like that. I started with a hammer and dolly and worked REALLY slowly from left to right. I was so proud of myself... and then I got to the last and largest of the trouble areas. By the time I got it flat, it fucked up all of the other work I had done.

    It was like a circus of follies on my part.

    A few weeks ago, I watched a well known pro tackle a similar problem. It took him an hour... and boy did I feel stupid.

    If I had it to do all over again, I'd seek out someone that knows what they are doing. Gets tips and advice on my exact trouble area and then try it again myself.

    I wouldn't do it blind... I guess that's what I'm saying.
     
  13. Von Rigg Fink
    Joined: Jun 11, 2007
    Posts: 13,404

    Von Rigg Fink
    Member
    from Garage

    and actually i woudnt be beating it "out"..it needs to be mostly beat "in"..95% of the deformation on the panel are "outies" not "innies"..(if thats even a word)..hey body guys what do you call em?
    dents go in..what do you call em when they are out? dimples?
     
  14. Von Rigg Fink
    Joined: Jun 11, 2007
    Posts: 13,404

    Von Rigg Fink
    Member
    from Garage

    Ha..maybe the same jackhole owned both our cars?:eek:

    I completely get what your saying Ryan..I have a fellow HAMBer pal that im hopeful he can help me make the right choice on how to attack this, i just wanted other opinions. I really want to learn how to work this out too, its an education i want to have..I have binked out the simple dents and such with out too much trouble..but this is something a guide would definetly help me understand more and help me develop a skill i dont have at the moment
     
  15. michiganman061
    Joined: Jul 23, 2006
    Posts: 509

    michiganman061
    Member
    from Michigan

    is it just me, or is no picture showing up?
     
  16. Undercover Customs
    Joined: Mar 24, 2009
    Posts: 362

    Undercover Customs
    Member

    Hey, give it a go. If you really f it up you can cut it out and patch the other panel. It's all a learning experience either way.

    Remember, when it comes time to spread on the body filler I have two motto's.
    1) Put it on thin and win!:D
    2) If you put it on thick, take it of quick.:eek:

    Good luck
     
  17. Von Rigg Fink
    Joined: Jun 11, 2007
    Posts: 13,404

    Von Rigg Fink
    Member
    from Garage


    must be your settings..shows up here
     
  18. John_Kelly
    Joined: Feb 19, 2003
    Posts: 535

    John_Kelly
    Member

    I can see the picture in the first post.

    I would get someone on the inside to hold a dolly that has the same or slightly less curve than the panel up and down (almost flat side to side) firmly against the surface while you hammer from the outside. A hammer that has a wide face with a low crown, not a flat hammer. If the dimples are pretty sharp (hard to tell from here), start with medium blows to slowly convince the high areas to flatten out. Don't try to do it all at once. Take your time. As the metal gets flatter, hit a little harder to smooth the area.

    You might want to create some similar dents in a piece of scrap to get a feel for it. My youtube videos below show this type of work. Part 1 of Custom Metal Bodywork shows tool selection, parts 9-12 show dent repair. Good luck!

    John www.ghiaspecialties.com
     
  19. harrington
    Joined: Jul 22, 2009
    Posts: 421

    harrington
    Member
    from Indiana

    Hammer, dolly and a shrinking disk. Probably take a couple hours and 2-3 beers.
     
  20. Von Rigg Fink
    Joined: Jun 11, 2007
    Posts: 13,404

    Von Rigg Fink
    Member
    from Garage

    ahh fuck thats the problem...im outa beer:eek:
     
  21. Von Rigg Fink
    Joined: Jun 11, 2007
    Posts: 13,404

    Von Rigg Fink
    Member
    from Garage


    thanks John for those links, i'll check into them

    one of the things about this body that i really like, is there is very very little filler needed, other than this and a few other small problem areas , the rest of the body is straight and rust free
     
  22. nutajunka
    Joined: Jan 24, 2007
    Posts: 1,464

    nutajunka

    Just like he said. Where the metal is stretched heat it with a small propane torch and then bump it down with your hammer with the dolly behind it. Go slow and take your time. Don't just wack it, it will move the deformed metal to another spot. Just knock down your highs and bump up your lows and just keep looking at it from different angles. When you get it real close put a clean shop rag flat on your hand and rub over the spot. It will tell you where you need to go next. Sometimes I close my eyes and just rotate the hand and rag trick until I locate the lows or highs and stop my hand and lift it. Thats where it will need more work. Also get yourself something flat and wrap sand paper around it and go over the surface and the shinny spots will be your highs. I usually finish with a flat file over the surface in different directions untill it's all shinny. Main thing is just take your time, don't make more work for yourself or stretch the metal.
     
  23. john worden
    Joined: Nov 14, 2007
    Posts: 1,828

    john worden
    Member
    from iowa

    "Innies" are called lows and "outies" are called highs. Your goal will be to move them to the correct contour. You are dealing with stretched metal. It will take hammer and dolly work and shrinking to restore the contour. If you remove the back glass can you reach in and hold a dolly with one hand ? Start slowly because this is a repairable panel. Learn the skills now and you can use them again. Luck
     
  24. Hammer & dolly, adding heat to the really bad spots as needed.

    You should be able to tackle that one with a little patience, I wouldn't go cutting out a good panel like that, you just end up with a different set of problems.
     
  25. Von Rigg Fink
    Joined: Jun 11, 2007
    Posts: 13,404

    Von Rigg Fink
    Member
    from Garage

    same thing another HAMBer told me..I think i was looking for the easy way out..(bad boy:eek:)
    mostly because i know i dont have the skills, yet. To do it right. but i felt i could cut out the bad and easily put in the other back panel, but then more i think about it, you body guys know that doing so could open up a bunch of other problems

    but before i give in, im going to play with it and see what i can get out of it.
     
  26. flynbrian48
    Joined: Mar 10, 2008
    Posts: 8,245

    flynbrian48
    Member

    You'll end up with a far worse mess than you have now if you try to weld in a new panel. You need to brush up a little on metal working, don't just wail away with a hammer and dolly. Get a text book on basic auto body work or one of the vids by Covell, etc, and learn what you should be doing. Blindly going at with a torch to shrink the high spots will make you humble in a big hurry.

    That's very minor damage, don't make it worse than it already is.
     
  27. Von Rigg Fink
    Joined: Jun 11, 2007
    Posts: 13,404

    Von Rigg Fink
    Member
    from Garage


    thanks Brian..
    I do intend to get some schoolin' , i wont just go at it like a monkey.
    and i will keep the beer away from it:rolleyes:

    was just putting out some feelers to see what ya'all had ta say
     
  28. I'm also a big fan of experience, if you have a piece of old metal to beat up you can actually learn and feel what you are trying to do before you attack the piece you want to have right.

    I could mess up some metal for ya if you would like :)
     
  29. strawberry
    Joined: Sep 13, 2008
    Posts: 291

    strawberry
    Member

    thats gravy man, you can work the old tin so easy its not even funny, looks like it took a shot to the rump and someone just smacked it back out with a ballpeen hammer ? work it , heat shrink and work it, very little filler if any , watch that gastank !!
     
  30. ems customer service
    Joined: Nov 15, 2006
    Posts: 2,634

    ems customer service
    Member

    the easy way but it seems harder is to take out the whole rear panel at the factory seams. and then the damaged area can be put on a planshing hammer to work out the dents, but i would go to a pro on this as you could make it worse. but then you would have a nice panel
     

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