Barn Job #18, '10 Build Thread.

[Old6rodder]

HA/GR #18 '10 build thread
Link to '09 build thread.
Link to '07/'08 build thread.

Name: "Barn Job #18" (Build photos link)
Status: Racing
Team: "Geezerspeed"



Engine: '60 225" Chrysler "slant" six
Carbs: three HIF6 SUs
Gearbox: '62 Valiant 3 sp.
Rear end: '62 Valiant 7.25", 4.10>1
Wheelbase: 124"
ET: 12.941
MPH: 105.50

Records:
'07 first mid engine HA/GR.
'07 first running HA/GR, left coast.
'08 winner, 1st HA/GR (unofficial) "meet", left coast.
'08 quickest HA/GR, left coast.
'08 fastest HA/GR, left coast.
'09 2nd place, ANRA I Open Wheel class.
'09 1st place, ANRA II HA/GR sub meet.
'09 2nd place, ANRA II Open Wheel class.
'09 1st 12 sec HA/GR run, left coast.
'10 First two left coast HA/GR clutch explosions, ANRA I.

[Old6rodder]

Well kiddies,

We made it to 2010, with 2009 "in the books". What a year that was.

I've once again survived the Rose Parade and spent most of January recuperating, catching up on work & home maintainance and keeping our heads above the waterline this year.
Still, I've managed to find a little time to tickle the HAMBster a bit as well.

Failing to locate an available rear sump (pick up truck) oil pan last year, I gave up and re-cobbled a spare 987 (mid-sump) one I had on the shelf. I moved the sump back of course, added a rear baffle and relocated the dipstick tube to the side of the pan. Next up; stretching the oil pick-up tube to fit.

Following that we'll make the spacers for the new rear wheels we got last year and finally mount'em up.

Then it'll be a full tear down for some minor chassis re-engineering and hopefully some weight reduction. We'll touch up the paint then too.

Lastly (if we can get a few more "round tuits"), a proper cooling system & temp gauge, an oil pressure idiot light and a cam cut specifically for our set-up. Some of these may have to wait for later in the season.

Russ is finished with his surgeries and recuperating in Palm Springs ........ bored out of his skull.
He'll likely be back aboard by mid year. And likely ready to race, ya think?
And he still weighs 50+ lbs less than I do.

I'm also still way behind on the photo album but will try to get it caught up this month.

[64 DODGE 440]

Looking forward to seeing the results of your efforts...gonna have to start crackin' so we can stage with you this year.

[Toymaker]

Originally Posted by 64 DODGE 440

Looking forward to seeing the results of your efforts...gonna have to start crackin' so we can stage with you this year.

You better "Start Crackin'", we need a full field this year at Eagle Field Notice I didn't say which event as I thought I'd be kind! Rocky

[64 DODGE 440]

Originally Posted by Toymaker

You better "Start Crackin'", we need a full field this year at Eagle Field Notice I didn't say which event as I thought I'd be kind! Rocky

Thank you for your continued support...we don't know which event either, but plan giving it our best shot.

[Old6rodder]

Originally Posted by 64 DODGE 440

Thank you for your continued support...we don't know which event either, but plan giving it our best shot.

One with a drag race?

Tom, I'll likely make it over next week.

[64 DODGE 440]

Originally Posted by Old6rodder

One with a drag race?

Tom, I'll likely make it over next week.

I'll likely be here.

[Toymaker]

Originally Posted by 64 DODGE 440

I'll likely be here.

HaHaHaHa! The boys with the straight 8 picked up a manual trans set-up, look out. Rocky

[64 DODGE 440]

Originally Posted by toymaker

hahahaha! The boys with the straight 8 picked up a manual trans set-up, look out. Rocky

cool!!

[Old6rodder]

OK kiddies, I finally updated the build album.

I got around to putting'er on a diet this year but won't know how much she shed 'til I can get'er to a scale. Looking for 100 lbs but likely'll only get close to it.
Also spiffied up the front end a bit and will leave the new carb stacks on (they work! ).

When the engine goes back together it'll be with a bit better cam, a bit more off the head and a bit more off the weight there too.

Other than that we're adding the L78 Cokers we bought last season, and that's about it. Hoping to keep'er in the 12s and have fun drivin'er.

Here's one of the new pics .....

[bobw]

Thanks for the update, Dick. You are showing what can be achieved with a slant without shoveling tons of money into it. Good luck this season.

[64 DODGE 440]

You da man!!

The "hole" world of HA/GR bows down to you!!

[Toymaker]

The "God Father" of HA/GR's

[Old6rodder]

Thanks Bob, that's where the fun is for me.

Originally Posted by Toymaker

The "God Father" of HA/GR's

No Rocky, I drilled each and every one of these holes with a drill, not a Thompson.

[nexxussian]

Aw, c-mon, the Thompson would have put the reinforcing flanges in all at the same time.

[64 DODGE 440]

Originally Posted by nexxussian

Aw, c-mon, the Thompson would have put the reinforcing flanges in all at the same time.

For the size of them holes he would have had to use a 105.

[nexxussian]

Originally Posted by 64 DODGE 440

For the size of them holes he would have had to use a 105.

This is true, but you might have secondary distortion "issues".

[Drewfus]

I like all the updates, however.....how much 'flex' is there in the front end? from this side of the pond it looks like you have removed a dramatic amount of steel from both the split bones and the axle, and whilst I appreciate that the core 'structural' elements remain, the length of those slots concerns me, especially given the kind of speeds you're going to be reaching....am I over reacting, how is it in the flesh? any details on the shortened box and electric motor used on the water pump?

Cheers,

Drewfus

[ThingyM]

I've been using a Ford heater motor on the waterpump since day one.And BobW also put one on his..I got mine belted with a 4-1 ratio. Adds about another 5 hp to the motor..

[Old6rodder]

Originally Posted by Drewfus

I like all the updates, however.....how much 'flex' is there in the front end? from this side of the pond it looks like you have removed a dramatic amount of steel from both the split bones and the axle, and whilst I appreciate that the core 'structural' elements remain, the length of those slots concerns me, especially given the kind of speeds you're going to be reaching....am I over reacting, how is it in the flesh? any details on the shortened box and electric motor used on the water pump?

Cheers,

Drewfus

Howdy Drewfus,

Sorry, I'll need to take a couple paragraphs for a proper explanation.

Our front end is (functionally) an unequal length four link system with a bit of give in the joints as well, not the rigid bones design it appears to be.

Bone loadings;
Ford's solid mounted design relied on an intact wishbone, which rodders typically defeat by "splitting the bones". This then torsionally loads both the bones and the axle in a way Ford never intended and just chaffs the hell out of the engineer in me. It looks cool ...... but.
I have our bones set up to actually work as links (using flexible attachments at the axle ends in addition to the chassis ends) so that the joints take the movements as I've designed. They're weaker torsionally of course but no longer recieve any torsional loading.

Their beam strength is near original as the slots do not intrude on the arch portion of the oblong cross section. Thus the upper and lower chords are untouched, they're actually well over strength for their new function.

Spring loadings;
The spring loops (tips) are rubber sleeved like the bone's axle ends to allow for a bit of compression. This effectively eliminates the minor torsional loading inherent in unequal link layouts applied to limited travel designs.

Axle loadings;
It's torsional resistance is way down of course, particularly from the two slots outboard of the bone mounts. However there are no front brakes in my application, thus inducing no brake torsional load to the axle in the first place. The free mounting of the bones also eliminates any torsional loading to the axle from them as well.

Again, the top and bottom chords are unmolested, leaving the beam strength near original.

Weight loading;
Pretty much self explanatory in a dedicated drag racer, nowhere near what the equipment's originally designed for.
Not so, the other end of the car, and you'll notice the rear bones fully unmolested in spite of the fact that they're only taking compression & tension loads, no torsional at all.

I've been asked this before, but I've not before explianed it, merely responded that this is a strip only build, and only a fool would try it on the street. This in an admitted effort to keep neophytes from doing ill considered things.

The short gearbox is working well. The early output shaft has enough meat to allow re-splining for a later style slip joint after shortening. There after it's but a matter of shortening a later rear housing (with seal) to fit.
The original rear bushing's pretty much a sinecure, so the actual rear box bearing carries the load as the factory intended.

The original early ball & trunion joint could be done the same I expect, as the trunion plate was splined onto the output shaft as well. There'd be a bit of extra machining in the Jesus nut threads of course but it'd be perfectly do-able.

The electric motor for the pump is in an after market kit sold by Mr. Gasket, but it appears to be nothing more than a heater blower motor adapted to the service, the toothed belt & pulleys being the big deal. This is their cheapest kit, the injection molded pump end pulley doesn't fit the belt very well and I had to nobble the bracket a fair bit (it's designed for V8s). Still, it works.