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English Wheel for $150.00

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Capt. Zorro, Jan 30, 2005.

  1. Capt. Zorro
    Joined: Nov 30, 2004
    Posts: 557

    Capt. Zorro
    Member

    I posted the other nite about using a caster wheel for making an English Wheel that I found at Tractor Supply. Here's what I've got done so far. Turned it down in my old lathe to get the run out down to about .003, made a new axle for it and drilled out the mount to get it into something useable. Think the wheel was around $27.00. Went to Barnett Wrecking and picked up some 2x3 and 2x2 heavy wall tubing. It was around $100.00 for all of it. Broke out the chop saw and Mig and this is what I've got so far.
     

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  2. Capt. Zorro
    Joined: Nov 30, 2004
    Posts: 557

    Capt. Zorro
    Member

    Ok, one pic at a time I guess...
     
  3. Capt. Zorro
    Joined: Nov 30, 2004
    Posts: 557

    Capt. Zorro
    Member

    More pics.
     

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  4. Capt. Zorro
    Joined: Nov 30, 2004
    Posts: 557

    Capt. Zorro
    Member

    Here's another one...
     

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  5. Capt. Zorro
    Joined: Nov 30, 2004
    Posts: 557

    Capt. Zorro
    Member

    Here's another one of the caster wheel
     

    Attached Files:

  6. Nice job! I'd like to try building one myself! I thought they could be home made with a little ingenuity! I'd like to see a panel worked from your wheel. Do the flat edges of the castor create creases in the metal or is the castor slightly rounded over? Thanks for the pics!
     
  7. Capt. Zorro
    Joined: Nov 30, 2004
    Posts: 557

    Capt. Zorro
    Member

    I had to put the brace between the front and back let as when pressure was applied it would transfer the load to the back leg and squeeze it towards the front. You could see the back leg move about 1/4 inch foward when you cranked the anvil up.
    Still need to figure out how to make the different radii on the anvil's. I made this one to try it out with. It works great, already made a couple "blister's" out of some sheet metal and aluminum.
     

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  8. Capt. Zorro
    Joined: Nov 30, 2004
    Posts: 557

    Capt. Zorro
    Member

    The caster doesn't but the anvil will. I need to make some with varying radii or buy a set off E-bay for about $250.00. I don't know if I can make them with the lathe I have. I made one to play with but it needs to have more of a radius on it. It's just a small caster wheel also.
     
  9. Looks good Zorro. :)

    I hope the yokes bolt on,so it's easier to make changes later.

    Yes,you can make your own anvil wheels if you have access to a lathe.
    Not super difficult,but time consuming.Consider it good experience.
    And you can save $50 for each one you make.:cool:

    Ideally,anvil wheels have a flat in the center.The width of the flat is approximately .075 times the radius.

    English wheels,anvils,adjusters etc. are covered in the links in my signiture.
    Feel free to check them out.
     
  10. Capt. Zorro
    Joined: Nov 30, 2004
    Posts: 557

    Capt. Zorro
    Member

    Unkl,
    You've got a great site, I've been reading on it for awhile now. I've always been interested in metalworking but just now getting able to afford to pick up some stuff to work with.
    I've just got a small caster wheel tack welded on for an anvil now. When I figure out how to make them I'll make a permanent cradle to hold them. Do you have a link to the instructions on how to make the anvils? I haven't found it yet on the site.
    TIA.
     
  11. oldgoaly
    Joined: Oct 22, 2004
    Posts: 562

    oldgoaly
    Member

    CZ,
    here is a link to the Metalshaper's site to my anvil (lower Ewheel)
    making album. If you don't have a radii cutter a grinder will work,
    just takes more time/work. You don't need lots of lower anvils,
    learning to use them is more important.
    now if i do this correctly?????

    http://allshops.org/cgi-bin/community/communityalbum.cgi?action=openalbum&albumid=9980137826061
    That should work???

    Hardening will make them last longer, ball bearings make them roll easier.
    Frame looks good! some people will say the frame needs to flex, others want it as ridged as possible, again it goes back to how you want to use it.
    Lots of opinions on which is better and they are just that, how you like your
    wheel is the most important to you, not the people in the home for the
    cronicly tall!

    tt
    clueless near st.louis
     
  12. Wayne,

    The wheel looks awesome. I really want to come see it.

    When are you off this week? I need to take a "sick day" and come see you.

    Later, JH
     
  13. Capt. Zorro
    Joined: Nov 30, 2004
    Posts: 557

    Capt. Zorro
    Member

    Harrison,
    I'm off Tue, Thur. afternoon, Fri., Sat., and Sunday this week if something doesn't rip, wravel or come unglued.
    U still planning on going to the swap meet in Nashville this weekend?
     
  14. mule
    Joined: May 24, 2004
    Posts: 300

    mule
    Member

    your my hero. Nice job
     
  15. Thanks for the kind words,but it's not my site.
    I just spend too much time working on it.

    We have an album on making anvil wheels,somewhere. :confused:
    Tom Lipton had a good one.
    If I can't find it,I might have to make another.
     
  16. Damn, I have meetings on both Tues. and Thurs. afternoons this week. Can't remember what Friday looks like. I'll check my calendar at work tomorrow. Think we might weld a bit on my chassis if I could get away on Friday? I seriously only need a big welder for about one good hour on it, the rest could be done back here at home.

    I want see the english wheel and those blisters you made. I want to see those A P/U bed pieces you have too.

    I am going to Nashville. That is my annual trip with some west TN buddies. It is the only time I see them each year. I'll go over on Saturday to meet them.

    Post here, PM me, or I'll give you a call tomorrow.

    Thanks, JH
     
  17. briggs&strattonChev
    Joined: Feb 20, 2003
    Posts: 2,234

    briggs&strattonChev
    Member

    this is too cool to not kick back to the top!

    Neat!
     
  18. Capt. Zorro
    Joined: Nov 30, 2004
    Posts: 557

    Capt. Zorro
    Member

    Harrison,
    Yea, bring the frame over Fri. if you can get off. I should be around the shop working on some of my junk. Give me a call first to make sure, sometimes I have to take off to Sevierville to check on my 86 yr. old Father on short notice. If you need something special welded up I can get my buddy Mark that's been a welder for 25 yrs. to weld it for you. He tig's stainless tubing by hand that looks like it's been machine welded.
     
  19. JamesG
    Joined: Nov 5, 2003
    Posts: 5,249

    JamesG
    Member

    This should when the best tech post if no ones won it already.
     
  20. Awesome man. I'll call you tomorrow.

    Thanks so much, JH
     
  21. Rocket Sled
    Joined: Jan 16, 2005
    Posts: 279

    Rocket Sled
    Member
    from Hanover PA

    How did you do you're setup to crank the anvil up? I've been kicking around some ideas in my head but i'm curious to see how you did it.
     
  22. Rusty
    Joined: Mar 4, 2004
    Posts: 9,474

    Rusty
    Member

    Sweet. Awesome work
     
  23. Capt. Zorro
    Joined: Nov 30, 2004
    Posts: 557

    Capt. Zorro
    Member

    Rocket,
    I used two pieces of heavy wall tubing that fit tightly inside each other. Bought a three foot piece of 3/4 allthread and welded a washer on one end. Took two 3/4 nuts and drilled out the threads so that the rod would fit through. Welded one in the top of the smaller tube leaving space for the washer, welded the other in the bottom of the small tube to keep the rod aligned in the tube. Slid the small tube into the large tube to check for a tight fit, then welded two 3/4 nuts that were welded together in the bottom of the large tube and threaded the allthread rod in. Screwed it down till the washer on the top was below the level of the end of the small tube. Then tacked a 1/4 plate on the top of the small tube to attach the anvil holder to. Welded a 3/4 nut to the other end of the allthread to make the "kicker". Put it in the vise and checked that it worked the way I wanted it to. Then finished the weld on the plate that holds the anvils and welded the rods to the nut on the other end to make the "kicker".
     
  24. cabriolethiboy
    Joined: Jun 16, 2002
    Posts: 891

    cabriolethiboy
    Member

    I used a trailer jack turned up-side down.
     
  25. Circus Bear
    Joined: Aug 10, 2004
    Posts: 3,238

    Circus Bear
    Member

  26. http://www.nvbackflow.com/engines/





     
  27. FiddyFour
    Joined: Dec 31, 2004
    Posts: 9,024

    FiddyFour
    Member

    thats the one i am planning on building,,, nice and compact, and the pieces are easy to come by... not a ton of room in my garage, so space is a factor
     

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