I'm askin' Santa for a good December Banger Meet

Ok,
I'll start this one:


Lets see if we can keep the discussion about insert bearings going.



Here is the banger link list I posted last month.


For the HAMB banger newbies, here are some links to a lot of banger info:

Flat Ernie maintains the monthly link list. Every month is listed:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=161498


Banger basics. another info link list:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=251717

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=42480

Maybe these links should be posted early in each months meeting.

If anyone knows of more, please post them.

.

 

As that one guy in Apollo 13 says after he figures out how to bring the astronauts home. THANK YOU NASA, THANK YOU NASAAAAAAAAAA. I like how you are starting this last banger month of the year off. Thanks again Dan.-Weeks

 

CDO,

Some of this archived info will be put to good use. I am in need of some more info.

Thanks!!

 

Don't forget this fellow:

-Dave

 

Have never posted on any of the banger threads but always read them and I appreciate the efforts, details, y'all discuss and the dedication to the Bangers. To me y'all are true Hot rodders.

Many years ago I met "320CIAbone" who never posts, but he introduced me to a fella named Manuel DeCorte who was an old Hot Rodder from Lomita, Ca. Manual was building cars in the 30's up until his departure from this earth a couple of years ago. 320 CIABONE picked up one of his model A's that was in work and the engine that Manual was beginning the build on. I wanted to share what 320CIABONE has built and will be installing very shortly into that perfect Model "A", here is what he has to say about it.

"This build is based on the 5 bearing full pressure aluminum model "D" Donovan block with a Joe Gemsa rocker arm 4 port aluminum head and log intake manifold, Brierley m-58 five bearing camshaft, Cunningham connecting rods, billet oil pump, smith brothers push rods, Steve Serr composite head gasket, sce copper exhaust flange gaskets, forged flat top pistons with moly rings. Crankshaft is a SCAT billet 5 bearing counterbalanced using Chevy journal sizes, and clevite bearings, cam bearings (5) are dura-bond. Harmonic balancer is a Winfield replica specifically machined for the ford Model A, B four banger. Water pump is Model T ford style that has been upgraded with roller bearings and leak proof seals. The engine is zero time on all of the components except the ignition, Stromberg 97’s, Kong side drive, flywheel assy. Compression is 7 to 1, exhaust is 4 into one tube header, and collector is 4 dia. The distributor is a Honda electronic 1984 and the front side drive is a Kong racing piece from the 50’s, flywheel is a machined Model A drilled for Chevy S-10 pressure plate. Amsoil Synthetic oil and full flow Amsoil Filter will be used."

 

wow there is a few $$$$ there
i bet it runs like a mad man though
tk

 

I'm curious about this "Model T Ford style" water pump. Meaning a thermosyphon system, the 1909 type, one of the aftermarket types, or a typo?

-Dave

 

That is one BAD motor! Whats the estimated hp for it?

 

Good lookin' build but that compression ratio is awfully low for a ohv motor.

 

I have a Riley two port in my 32 5-w and I set it up at 9 3/4-1 and i love it. Starts good, and overall runs very well.--TV

 

Thanks for all the links. I plan to eventually put some speed parts on my B motor in the '32.

 

There ya go TV, that's a compression ratio that'll make some power!

 

Water pump is a after market piece, not sure of mfg . Will show in future photos . HP estimate 225 without turbo - .

 

anyone got a line on a complete dual down draft banger intake? something fun with dual 94's...Chris had a perfect set up, but i missed it.

 

Thank you CrazyD for the links! I've been lurking lately and have posted some in the past, just don't feel like I've had a lot to contribute. I appreciate all the info. though, and look forward to putting it to use in the future. Just got some time to work on the wagon this holiday weekend
Took off the cowl and firewall. Unfortunately the feet on the firewall were cracked Got the wood floor frame off and was able to confirm the body number. Next stop frame and rear wheel wells. Hope to get the firewall, wheel wells welded up.

 

Did a search and didn't find an answer so forgive me if its been talked about already but I was at my garage this past weekend giving the roadster a once over trying to make a list of what needs to be done and noticed that the water pump shaft has quite a bit of float as the motor is idling. I have been told that its normal for it to have some float, but it floats about 1/8" to a little bit over 1/4". This is my first banger so Im quite unfamiliar, just placed an order with Mac's for a repair manual so that will be my "bring everywhere" book for awhile.

 

That Donovan/Gemsa is gorgeous. Love to see and hear that run.

 

Nothin new with me. I took the coupe out for a spin the other day...once warmed up she seemed to like the chilly air!!

 

BB CRANKS revisited,

I have found the information regarding the BB crankshaft, I'm not going to post it as it is copywrited but i will try to paraphrase what was written in an article that appeared the S O S S and the Restorer.

The author has studied the ford archives extensively and when he researched the A B crankshaft he also found a reference to the BB crankshaft and as it did appear in the archives as a part he knew there must be a drawing of it. On January 18 1933 an engine #5,186,053 was built with counterbalances "sweated" on. In 1935 the drawing was released for manufacture to be used on the rebuilt engines The researcher stated that the process is now called swedged which I believe was an error as sweating something on requires heat where as swedging is done cold. In the swedging process material is moved, simply put the two parts are forced together. In sweating you would probably heat the item until it expanded enough for assembly such as replacing the starter gear on your flywheel. Anyway the part was a factory item used in the Ford engine rebuilding program until WW2. It was apparently never a dealer item
There are couple of firms manufacturing this type today. The only one I researched made them in progressively larger or smaller diameters (your choice) to facilitate installation. You would have to machine your crank to fit. Get your magnifying glass out Maybe the amount of force applies to just shearing the pins off when removing the weights. Shane at Taylors said they were cutting them off. Dan 4 Banger lists them and states they are designed to be sweated on.

 

There is a stop cast in the head that wears down over the years. Some people pull the head and Braze or weld and build up on this stop. Or you can find a collar at some of the "A" parts suppliers that goes on the shaft and limits the travel. Probably buy one at the hardware store.

 

cdo,

here's the pic I promised. thanks to all for ongoing info. i love this group of people!

Super Winfield has the Best gasket on it. Repop 6.5:1 Winfield in the back. Just started to clean up the chamber in the repop. Won't finish the clean up until i can get it on the flow bench.


checking piston popup...roughly speaking anyway.


deck number zeroed


popup number of .024" (center of piston above the deck)


checking net valve lift...it's a big one...HEHE not much over .300


a friend's bonneville car turned street....and hopefully back to bonneville soon!


got to go to work now....keepem' on the road!

 

Thank you for the info Bill. The stop is in the head itself? Without having one apart I was assuming that maybe the pump housing had a thrust washer of some sort to keep the shaft end play. If its on the head I would assume that replacing the stock head with an aluminum high compression head would take care of the worn stop, if not I can machine a spacer on the lathe in the mean while.


Nice job Andy, love the white roadster!

 

On my bucket list is a '32 pickup with a four banger. Well, digging in the barn a week ago I found an aluminum front cover with integral mounting feet, a side assembly gear for an accessory drive (water pump), an aluminum oil pan, as well as a bunch of other misc pieces from a wooden boat inboard A engine installation.

These front covers and pans should be pretty cool on the '32, with the water pump drive removed from the side gear and a magneto adapted. But I will need to use an A bellhousing ring to let the oil pan work.

Since I'm scrounging a different bellhousing, I thought I may as well look for one of those adapters to use a '39 trans while I'm at it. Does anybody know where to get the new bellhousings that will mate the '39 trans?

 

http://www.vintageford.com/sect_search.cfm?Line=Hot Rod&Category=Transmission

They have the adapter kit for $450

Clings has it also, https://www.clingsaftermarket.com/addtocart.asp?prod=43

 

Back to the Donovan / Gemsa; I have to ask.........

Why not just put all that money into an Offenhauser? It isn't really any more of a Ford than the offy. At some point it seems you left the Ford behind. Stromberg 97 was about the only thing in the list that I can identify with.

OK, bloody me. It won't be the first time.

 

Because he wanted a Donovan/Gemsa????? Not an Offy!! or a FORD !!!

This is about Bangers not exclusively Fords.

 

Jim,
I understand your point, but this is more or less a support group for those of us that are addicted to bangers. Not just Ford. But it does need to be vintage. Yes, the Donovan is a modern creation, it is basically an improved Ford engine.

Like any addiction if the participants of the support group become too judgmental, participation will decrease.

I for one can say that after all that I have spent on trying to make the Ford banger go fast, I wish I would have started with the Donovan.

.

 

Andy,
Thanks for the pictures.

Have you cc'd the combustion chambers of either of these heads?
At this angle of view, the head in the back looks to have a bigger chamber.
At 6.5:1 I'd say that it would be @ 140 cc ?

Looks like you have a neat group of hotrods to hang out with !!!!!!

.

 

Gaters,
Are you still having carb issues with your car?

.

 

If you are just changing the leaf springs, your mechanical brakes will work just like they do now. You are not changing the relationship of the spring perch to the brake drum.

Now, if you put a dropped axle under the car, the brake drum rises up much higher than before in relationship to the spring perch. Then you will have to do some modification.

Feel free to check out the post I did back in Feb. about lowering my Model A coupe while still retaining the Mechanical brakes.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=332870




Lowbuckboz did it also.