TFI using points how to

I made a conversion on my guinea pig 352 with points converted to a TFI module and e-coil off of a 6 cylinder pickup that was on its way to scrap.

I can't take credit for this, it's been done on things, but I did this on mine and it really works. I have a closed bowl TFI module that looks like this:



An e-coil that looks like this:



And this is the schematic:



I made my own loom that tied all of the proper pigtails together by stripping butt crimps, crimping them and wicking 60/40 rosin core solder in, then heat shirinking and conduiting them.

This is on a 1965 Ford with a charging light, not a gauge, BTW. But what I did was run the +coil to the 87 post on a 30 amp Bosch relay. I already had an electric fuel pump so I used a DPST relay with two 87 posts. I have a 10A ATO fuse in the fuel pump line and and a 20A ATO inline to the ignition. The relay is under the dash along with the fuses.

I mounted the module with heat sink to the radiator cradle easy to get at, the coil to it own bracket on a stud to the power steering bracket. The loom is routed along the fenderwell neatly in conduit.

At the ignition switch I disconneded the resistor "pink" wire that normally fed the coil, and ran a wire from the switch connection to trigger the 86 post on the relay for a full alternator/ battery feed , The 30 post goes to the battery side of the starter solenoid, and the 85 is grounded.

Now at the distributor, I took the original primary wire out along with the condenser, and ran a new 14 ga wire to the "points" or "spout" connection at the module in the schematic, see above. I made my own strain relief with heat shrink tube. I also used 12 ga wire to feed the +coil after the connections of the "pip" and "run". It is a lot of KVs so I put a large cap adapter and cap on it to prevent cross fire.

Fire up time. It lit right off. Had my helper check the timing and it is rock solid with centrifugal and vacuum advance, so it is recognizing the points as a "spout" signal in place of the normal computer signal. No condenser, ther is no voltage to the points, so they will last forever. They just break a field and tell the module to fire the coil. The module is the gray "push start" style, so it has its own dwell control in the module. It is reading the same dwell as it did with just the points just steadier. I left the points at 27°-30° or .016 gap, but the module is 28° and rock steady, where the wear in the distributor made the dwell fluctuate beteen 27°-30° before. I have been told I can actually close the points up, but I figure appoximating the dwell to the module will make it easier on the module. I let it run for a long time and nothing even seemed to get warm, so I think it will last.

The only problem I came into was when I tried to shut it off. It wouldn't shut off with the key. A fellow FE forum member suggested that it was the voltage regulator feeding back to the switch. So I pulled the bulb on the llight , and viola, it works like a charm. I am going to have to put a diode in the power side of the light, so it can't get back to the switch. I like the idiot light because if you throw or break a belt, you know it before it gets hot, If you have a gauge, study the way it is wired, you may have to put the diode in the regulator side.

Anyway 12V negative ground modern ignition, and it was all stuff just laying around. It did put a bigger load on the alternator, it dropped a volt or so charging. I want to put my headlights on relays too, but I think I will need a little more alternator first.

But you can barely let go of the key in time now, it fires right up. Sweet!
This engine is tired too, enough blowby to be embarassing. I have a motor on the stand to replace it down the road a little. But this was a fun project.

I got the idea for this at http://www.gofastforless.com/ It shows a schematic for using an HEI module too.

 

If anyone is interested in making this conversion send me a PM. It really works well.

 

Damn, page 38 on a pure tech post that will make your car as reliable as the sun out of stuff you can get for almost free? C,mon guys, no love?

BTW, if you don't like the TFI module, you can substitute an HEI module, it will read points too and fire a Ford, or any other brand E-Coil.

Cool thing is you can hide everything and keep the original distributor. It just needs to be 12V negative ground.

 

Well, I liked it!

 

So the coil is feed full 12volt

 

Is this similar to a CDI unit ?

parts are cheap enough and readily available.

 

Nice to bring this topic back up. I have four or five of the TFI modules in a drawer.

 

Excellent post, very well done.

 

Ahhh showing the love I guess is never too late .

 

Ol Bill finally getting his props !

 

No.
It's still IDI, its just a more compact Duraspark box. An evolution in Ford ignition systems.
Divorced TFI module/heatsink has the advantage over distributor mounted TFI modules by not being mounted to the engine(vibrations) or in the path of prop wash(heat). It lasts much longer as a result.

 

Well written! I guess I missed this back in 2009.

 

He said current

 

This is hot rodding at its finest! I love building ignitions. I'm into Capacitive Discharge with a stock single points distributor as a trigger. The Chevy factory distributors have the timing built into the mechanical advance weights. People throw these things out never realizing how much R&D went into setting these weights up. Think of it, they give the engine the perfect amount of advance at the perfect rpm. The points distributors were what they used during the performance era.

Now I'm going to keep rereading your posts until I understand them. Thanks!

 

@Mimilan , any advice for this post?

 

Yes the coil feed is full 12v .

 

@john edward westgarth , hope this response helps.

 

Hello Mimilan I'm in Australia. Have you used the TFI module if so where did you get it. They are hard to find here

 

Hello X38 .Yes the links you put up are for the TFT-CCD Module which needs a computer input to adjust dwell timing. The TFI-IV Module is NOT a computer input module. The TFI-IV Is the module i want.

 

Yes Thanks Phil

 

I can't find a TFI-IV module that was used in cars in Australia

 

From a "Taurus" sold in NZ.

What Engine are you running????
The Pommy Ford Sierra Duraspark Modules are pretty good to. They plug into the Aussie Falcon distibutors [mechanical advance] pre-1982
And they also plug into 1980's 302/5.0 distributors [electronic with mechanical advance]

We did a 5.0 engine swap into an XF , and I purchased a electronic dizzy of an engine importer [minus harness / control etc for $5]
The Sierra duraspark module plugged straight in.

If you have no luck , then use an HEI module, but the wiring is not exactly as on most forums. The HEI triggers when the points close causing rotor phasing issues [normal Kettering and TFI trigger when points open.]
A cheap 40 cent transistor on the ground wire corrects this.

 

It's for a 1975 bedford 300ci bus engine with a points dizzy. What i want is a HEI Spark. If i use the bosch bim-024 module same as ones that came out in early commodores and the matching Bosch HEC-716 coil and feed coil with full 12v with No resistor will this work.

 

I'm using a TFI in my car and I got a Napa module off of E Bay and the harness plug new from Amazon. At first, I had a lot of mis-fire and my tach went wonky at higher RPM. Closing the point gap to .010" fixed it. My understanding is the module increases dwell with RPM and I must have had too much with the wider gap.

Gary

 

Technically American Graffiti [A "fantasy"made in 1973] is off topic.
Even Patina is off topic. eg: A 1964 Fairlane with Patina [now] was a new car back then

So is all the modern unleaded gas we use, Radial tyres, T5 trans, Disc conversions, FM stereos, Hydraboost, O/D autos, Edelbrock Carbs etc

 

Thanks X38

 

Are you a member of OZ FALCON. I tryed to sign up to ask Sparky dave were to get a TF-IV but I can't sign up OZ FALCON. Sparky dave been the wrighter of the link you sent me

 

Was it the gray Module. TFI-IV you used

 

The advantage of a TFI is better if you can get one from a Junkyard.
If you needed to import one you are better off buying a used MSD 5 [in Aussie] and hiding it under the dash.
here's an example
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/165428986398?hash=item268456021e:g:nIAAAOSw-zxiScSq


The MSD 5 is an inductive system that can only be triggered by points [so it lacks the "romance" of the digital units and you can get them cheap]


Your Bedford 300 engine should have a 6 cyl variant of the old Lucas 45 dizzy.
I've had good results machining down the body of a Jap dizzy so the Lucas clamp fits on.