Quick change tube removal fixture

If anyone has bought a quick change rear from a race car and needs to change a bent tube or modify its length heres a puller/ fixture to help you out.

first lets start with a stand to hold the rear while you disassemble it.





Next you'll need a slide type puller to remove the bell and tube seal



heres the tube seal



remove bolts from bell/tube

Next cut some plate and weld it to a piece of 2x3 drill 4 holes to bolt the bell to the plate.



next a small plate with a 2 inch hole and add chain



place the tube in a engine hoist and put just a slight bit of pressure on the tube



heat the bell with a oxy/acetelene torch till it starts to move. it should move very easily once the bell has expanded.



The reason I went with the 3/16 chain is to keep the user honest and not put too much pressre on the tube/bell. if you try to move it to soon it will gall the inside of the bell or bend the bell and create trouble with installing the new tube. Heres a pic after pulling the tube. notice the links that are welded to plate are not bent. showing that not much pressure is not needed.





I hope that if you have a need for this it helps out. If you have any questions please feel free to ask. I should have the new tube to install in a day or so and will post some pics of re-installing the new tube

 

Thanks for the thread! Very helpful!!!

Max

 

Wow I feel lucky my axle tubes came out relatively easy. Thanks for the info

 

Sure now you post this! We had to pay someone to do that. Put it back together ourselves though. scroll down:

http://kaparich.homestead.com/bellyjan09.html

 

DAMN INGENIOUS !...works like a dream too...thanks

 

cool

 

Very cool, ever do the reinstall?!

The search function rocks!

 

Tman. I don't have any bitchn tech like house of fab did, but I can give you the quick rundown of sticking the tube in the bell.

First, heat the bell to 150 degrees or so. I set mine in front of one of those portable kerosene heater things and shot it with a cheapie pyrometer untill she was about 150.

While the bell is being heated, cool the axle tube in a bucket of ice after marking a witness line to gauge the installed depth and tube clocking. (if you have a passenger car brake flange, it has to be clocked in the bell correctly or your brake backing plated will be crooked.)

When your tube is cold and your bell hot, man up and stick them together. You have to do this quick and with authority because the INSTANT that fucker slams home, it is in there. There is no wiggle room, if it is turned the wrong way or not in far enough, you are shit out of luck.

Good luck, -Abone.

 

Very informative... Thanks Racinman

 

I need to do this.Thank you.I will also need to reinstall te tube as well.

 

Do you have a good way to line them back up to put together?

 

read Abones reply, witness lines and clocking marks!

 

I read that ,but i need to shorten my tubes and wanted to know a sure fire way to clock them.

 

Getting ready to do this, any more tips?

 

I'm going to be doing this soon too. Thanks.

 

A straight piece of angle against the tube as a guide will help keep the clocking line straight and in the proper "time". Measured along the line the depth transfer mark will also be more accurate.

Ed

 

Ok, my fixture is made! Jeff, when putting it back together are you using a mallet to drive it home?

 

Ok, I got mine apart. If you guys have a cobbled up circletrack setup like mine you may need a ton of heat and patience. I suspect Clem left the clearances a little too tight. First tube took two pulls. Under tension with 10-15 minuted of heat on all sides it POPPED loose. Loud and sorta violent. See the weedburner I used.





I want to thank the OP for showing this method!! Worked great!