I am going to be experimenting with using a TFI heat sink module with an e-core coil, triggered by breaker points on my 352. Here's the schematic and how a guy used it. I am still going Duraspark on my roller cam engine, but this just looks like it would be fun to try. And to older vehicles it would be a better ignition. What do you guys think? BTW, the Module and Coil recieve 12 full volts triggered by a relay that is triggered by the original resistor wire for the coil (a keyed source in the run and start position). You could put a condenser back in, put on old can coil back on and hook up the resistor wire to get home if you have a module or coil failure. Kind of like a big Pertroniox you mount out in the open to stay cool. In the schematic, the #6 top (PIP) and #3 (Run) both go to the + side of the coil. The #5 (Spout) hooks to the points to create dwell time to make the coil fire. The points would take the place of the EEC in making a square digital wave just like a Hall Effect. The advance curved in your distributor would do what the EEC would normally do. I got all of the junk to do it off of a '94 F150 for free, so I thought why not? It may take a few days, but I'll keep you updated. My own addition: Module wires as they are called originally, from the bottom: 1. Ground 2. Negative Coil 3. Run -join via relay triggered by original resistor wire to pin 6 12V full volts and the positive side of the coil 4. Start on the gray module IDM out on the black one you aren't using it anyway. 5. Spout-hooks to the points to make the switching signal 6. Pip -12V Signal that is switched by the points to the coil to make it fire. IMPORTANT: The condenser has to be removed for it to work, you want the module to do the work the condensor used to do, It does it alot faster and there is no condenser heat to the points so they will last a lot longer. Article Courtesy of phred3512 ADRider.com This is not my own design I will only be trying it on my 352 Points to Electronic Ignition Cheap & Easy <HR style="COLOR: #575757" SIZE=1><!-- / icon and title --><!-- message -->Any engine with a 12volt point ignition can be converted to electronic ignition using a Ford TFI module. It is both cheap and easy. More than likely most of those here already know how to do this, but perhaps this can help someone. Point ignition is a simple example of a digital system. Simply put when the points open the voltage is interrupted on the primary side of the coil and induces a voltage in the secondary. This means that the expanding and collapsing field of the coil is switched off and on by the points opening and closing. If a capacitor is not wired in parallel to the points they would burn out quickly, hence the condenser(cap). In a regular point ignition the points are a switching device. The idea here is to change the points from a switching device to a triggering device and make the module do the switching. Switching a coil on and off is where the heat is generated and that is what causes the points to burn out. Of all the digital ignition modules used in automotive applications the Ford TFI is the only common module that fires on the negative to positive transition of the waveform. Since points fire at the same time they can be a good triggering device for the TFI ignition module. Just visit the local auto bone yard and get several Ford TFI modules along with the heat sink, and plug-in. I usually cut off as much of the harness as possible with the plug. It is important to get a module and heat sink pair like the one pictured. The earlier model mounted directly to the distributor and though will work it is more difficult to mount and the wiring is a little different. <STYLE type=text/css> <!-- @page { margin: 0.79in } P { margin-bottom: 0.08in } A:link { so-language: zxx } --> </STYLE>Looking directly at the module the bottom right would be wire #1. The illustration spells it out clearly (I hope). I usually just take #3&6, tie them together and hook them to the positive side of the coil seeing that is keyed ignition. #1 to ground, and #5 run to the points. Now you have an electronic ignition that will definitely not work!!! If you disconnect the condenser it will work flawlessly. Again you MUST make sure there is no condenser hooked to the points. The points need only to close and open, the gap is irrelevant If you just set up a battery on a bench and hook up all the wires as shown you can check the spark by toggling the point lead (#5) with a test light hooked to ground. You will get a nice hot spark out of the secondary. I have pictured one of my forklifts that I did the other day. It really is quite simple and works well on older motorcycles. Single and twins will work fine on one module, but fours need two. Rule of thumb is one set of points one module, two points two modules. Here is my forklift transmogrification. Before: A fine example of modern 20<SUP>st</SUP> century technology. Before going under the knife. The module. The module hung. The whole thing wired up. Notice the precision with which I removed the condenser from the circuit!!! My forklift ignition is now maintenance free. ==================================================================== It looks like it would kick it up pretty good, and it would reduce wear on the points because you remove the condenser and just use the points as a triggering device for the coil. You dont have voltage running through the points any more, the points hooked to the spoot
I have found it's easier to dump the distributor entirely and Use Ford EDIS setups. Not real traditional but neither is poor ignition or breakdowns . Plus i can dial in the exact curve the engine needs to fire at full bore or trickling along in traffic. my engine in my daily normally idles at 550 ZRPM but with EDIS it will idle smoothly at 2-300 RPM. Barely turning over. With EDIS you get an extra spark when the exhaust valves are open keeping the emmisions way down. And set up just involves fitting a 36 tooth wheel to the crank,a sensor to trigger the set up and a megajolt lite controller with a couple of EDIS coils . http://www.autosportlabs.net/index.php?title=MegaJolt_Lite_Jr._Users_Welcome
There are two "Closed Bowl" Modules, meaning they mount in a heatsink away from the distributor, Ford found that heat was what was killing them so they went to the remote mounting, The closed bowl module doesn't have the three pins on top like the distributor mounted ones. Bothe the gray and black modules are supposed to work the same if you are using the Spout pin to the points and using the advance in your distributor. First I'll give a list of the remote mount gray modules so in the boneyard you know where to look, then I'll list the black remote mount modules: Grey Remote "Push Start": Standarrd Ignition part number LX-226 for cross reference Ford Taurus 88-90 Ford TBiird 88-90 Ford Bronco 90-96 Ford E-series 88-96 Ford F-series 88-97 Lincoln Cont 88-90 Mercury Couugar 88-90 Mercury Sable 88-90 Black CCM Remote Mount, the only difference is that the "Start" pin on the gray was replaced by an IDM pin and the loom no longer used a 22 ohm resistor in the loom back to the EEC. With points providing the Spout/advance signal and the fact that you don't use this pin either with either module, it should work the same. Black Remote Mount-Standard Motor Products LX-241 for cross reference Ford Mustang 94-95 Ford Probe 93-97 Ford Taurus 90-95 Ford Tbird 91-97 Ford Aerostar 91-97 Ford Bronco 92 Ford E-Series 92-96 Ford F series 92-96 Ford Ranger 91-95 Lincoln Cont 91-94 Mazda MX-6 94 Mazda Pickup 94 Mercury Cougar 91-93 Mercury Sable 91-95 Happy boneyard hunting, Grab the coil and all of the wiring you can get too. When they went to the remote mount like in the pictures above, the failure rate of the TFI dropped to almost nothing. The heat from distributor mounting was killing them. The Motorcraft remote modules even from the junkyard are really strong, and an e-coil puts out a strong spark. My sons '94 F-150 has right at 300,000 miles on the original module. Something else too. With the points being the trigger, they also provide dwell. You will need to set the points according to what your dwell meter is seeing at the coil. As I understand for some prople who have done this, you can close the points up to about .010, but, reading with a dwell meter at idle and setting the points to that is the only way to be accurate, 27°-30° should be about right. Mine reads 27° at .015 gap with the used points I have with the regular condenser setup. Thats's where I plan to start out and see where it goes. Some guys say the dwell doesn't matter at all, it seems to me like it would. Taking the condensor out and having lower resistance components should allow you to close the points up some to get the same dwell. Since there is no current going though the points you don't have to worry about pitting.
I like the idea of an EDIS too, I may look at this down the road. The reason on TFI is you can still get the stuff in the boneyard for almost nothing, Mine was free. I am looking forward to trying it out.
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