* new pics page three Got a sweet deal on a hot little motor. Its a 54 235ci thats been punched out 40 over, shaved head, "race" grind cam, split manifold thats been sectioned off the make 2 "headers", and a custom 4bbl manifold with a 500 cfm card. Used to be a screamer and will be once its in my car. I know the original builder and trust him, he is legit. My question is this, and I have seen some tech threads on it but there were some varying opinions, what all do I need to do to stab the 235 in that big hole where the 216 is now? I am not planning on swapping the tranny, clutch, or driveline. Its all the original 3 spd on the column with the closed driveline still. The 216 is the original engine for that car (the vin and engine have the same numbers). I guess I will know more when I actually tear it apart. The 235ci comes with a 12volt upgrade including a 12v starter. I also have everything from the 235 3 spd. What will I need to swap? I saw something about adapting or modifying the water pump? What about the flywheel? The 216 has a 4 bolt flywheel right? I didnt look at the 235 close enough to inspect the flywheel but saw or read that is has more? Someone posted the radiator needs to be moved....can any one confirm this? What have you guys have to move? What about the motor mounts? I saw some say the block bolts right in. Others have said 2 holes needed to be drilled in the front plate. Other than a 12 volt batter and a 6volt drop for the guages what other things should I replace? Thanks for any help or answers fellas....if you know of a post or thread that has some of this info I would appreciate it. I found a few but they didnt really answer these questions. I'll post pics of the new motor once its officially mine.
can you say..." ADIOS MUCHACHO" She's been good to me,... onto bigger and better. Where do I get side mounts? I am used to doing V8 to V8 swaps. Do I make those or is there a manufacturer? I got a welder and some knowledge so I can make mounts ( or try like hell).
yeah, patricks is good. the 54 motor will go right in. the water pumps were longer on the later years. my 50 already had the holes for the front mount plate. the tranny and everything else should be the same.
my 53 had a later 235 with stock driveline. cant answer your flywheel question but seems to bolt right up. my radiator was in stock location but the fan was a bit too close for comfort. simple to move the radiator outboard your header panel. If you opt to go open driveline I have a truck Bellhousing that will bolt to that motor for 100.00 you can use all your stock components, throw out etc. with parallel leaves out back any rear end can easilly be hung up under that thing with a shave and weld on perches. Pm me if you need truck bell, I am in Ohio will ship
If the 216 has a 12 volt starter, then that means that it has the later 55 and up flywheel also. So you will have swap the 216 flywheel with the 235!! (different teeth count on the flywheel for the 12 volt) You shouldnt have to relocate, anything, for fan clearance, for the 54 235!! Should be a easy drop in swap!! Shadetree
Ok good point there on fan clearance, my 235 was a 1957 close but never hit....1/4 inch away from top tank. made sure motor mounts were good plus chained down drivers side of engine to frame.
get the side mounts of a 52 and up chevy. that would make things easier for you. if the 235 has a long water pump just press it so you can use a shorter pulley they actually sell a voltage drop for your gauges. its kinda like a ballast resister.
Here is a pic, and a link, of the gas guage voltage reducer, I used!! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Fuel...ryZ33674QQihZ002QQitemZ120329758837QQtcZphoto As far as the rest, stuff like light bulbs, will have to be changed, and a resister on the blower motor etc The 235 should already have a 12 volt coil, that's internal, or with a external ballast resister, sense its was already changed over to 12 volt. If it is a 54 235, the water pump will be fine!! The later models had the longer pump on them, and you could ether do what has been said, about pressing the hub back further on the shaft, or I believe they make a adaptor plate to use the 54, and earlier pump, on later 235s Shadetree
Use the 12v flywheel and starter. If the water pump mount on the front of the block has 2 holes that is a 54 engine and no w/p -radiator mods needed. Drill the front plate for the front mount if not already drilled. Use all the 49 bell housing as is . Really other than the 12 volt stuff a drop in.
You don't need side mounts. You can drill 2 holes in the timing cover flange and mount it just like the stock 216, just make sure the old 216 trans/bellhousing mounts are there to anchor it in the back. We did this on my wife's 51 ('60 235) and it worked great.
Cool,....thanks to all who responded. Can anyone answer whats better, the side mounts or the stock 216 plate? Like I mentioned this motor is making some good power, and I have a tendency to drive it like I stole it. Is one style better for keeping that inline doin fine under my hood? I will be sure to add/take photos when we do the swap. I am excited. I pick the motor up Friday! I know the stock 3 spd is gonna hold it back a little bit but its gonna have to work for awhile. I managed to not blow up the 216 like everyone promised I would so I think I can make the tranny last for another year or two.
i've used both. but those holes are sometimes a booger to align on that lower plate.so i always went side mount....it seems to keep the front of the engine from rocking..jmho
Hey Dru check out these mounts Gambino made. They look badass! Heres the link: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=165628
The holes in the front don't need to be exact as the rubber mounts will take up some of the slack. My wife's 51 had a bored over 235 with 2 carbs, headers, and 3.73 gears. T he motor mounts up front held up just fine. BTW, you don't need to use a 216 cover. Just drill the 235 cover to match. Use the 216 cover as a template. We just took some measurements and drilled the holes. The side mounts involve more measurements and welding. Slightly more stable, I suppose, but you're not exactly building a race car or a car with gobs of torque where the stock mounts wouldn't work.
I dropped a 55 235 in the Fiddy. All i had to do was drill the holes in the front, order stock 1950 motor mounts, and it bolted right in. The side mounts lined right up (54 engine might be diff). I had to get a short water pump from chevs of the 40s, due to it being a 55. Also went 12v. Thought about going with the 12 volt starter/flywheel, that would mean using the later model (1955) bellhousing, which would of required moding the clutch fork. Just easier to keep it stock. I really couldnt think of one reason to switch, the 6 volt starter loves 12 volts anyway. The only gauge the needs a reducer is the gas gauge, mine is fried, so i never did it. The heater fan works on 12 volts, i dont turn it all the way up. Im trying to find a few more parts to beef things up while staying period/stock, before i drop in a 261. From what ive been told/read, there are a few things to consider when putting in a hopped up 235/261 in a 49-54 chevy..... Please correct me if im wrong on any of this, and free to add anything, i am nooob. Starting to look for a bigger clutch/flywheel out of a truck, cept im not sure exactly which years/models to look for, maybe someone can answer that for me/us. Supposedly the little stock clutch disks can get torched quick when you put some horses in front of em..... The 216 was rated only at 85 hp. Im looking for a 53-54 3 speed transmission, supposed to be a bit tougher. Im sure one will be easily had for little coin. I already installed a torque tube rear end out of a 53-54 that had a power glide for 3.55 gears. Easy swap, cruises at 70 all day. Found the rearend cheeep, posted an ad on craigslist asking for one. Someone who just did a 350 conversion emailed me...... Dude couldnt believe i wanted it. That swap also comes with a free brake upgrade!
cool. the motor comes with a 3spd tranny for the 54 block. my throw out bearing right now squeals every once in awhile when i come to a stop but if i put the clutch in and out once or twice it goes away. i guess i should replace that while its all apart but thats gonna cost so it might put off swapping the motor for a little longer. i would like to switch to the higher gears (lower number) but most of my driving is in town so ill keep it till i swap to the open set up later on. ill switch to the open set up when i bag it in a few months (years). i know there will be lots of mods to do then as well ( floor pan, 4 link, driveshaft and what the hell maybe a T5). thanks for all the info guys. sounds like its gonna be as easy as i hoped it was. again i will post pics and do a good tech thread once i get my grubby litte paws on that motor. keep the info coming. looks like more than one of us can use it.
Well wish me luck fellas...got motivated and maybe a little bored tonight and started the process. pulled the manifold, carb, oil filter can, generator, wires, distributor and coil, battery and starter. gonna try to make it as light as possible to pull in a few days. not too bad for an hour or two or work. whats the easiest way to pull that out? i am planning on taking off the hood but should i pull the grill too? i know the radiator needs to come out and will as soon as i can find a bucket to drain into. my goal is to have it in and running with all the bugs worked out by santa maria.
got a 50 chev. pulled mine w/trans. all at once. pulled radiator and the cross member near top of radiator which made it much easier.
yah sorry hood also.if you can remember, try to look up how to remove your hood springs, there's a way to remove them and put them on a peice of metal so they are extended, it makes it much easier to put them back on.
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